Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 06-18-2013, 02:31 PM   #21
Site Team - Lou
 
Herk7769's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: South Eastern PA
Posts: 21,154
Quote:
Originally Posted by jeeplj8 View Post
I have used this on a exterior shower to remove silicone and it worked quite well:
Amazon.com: Motsenbocker 411-45 Silicone Latex Caulk And Foam Sealant Remover: Home Improvement
Interesting product!

While not specified for rubber or EDPM roofing, it might be worth a shot on the fiberglass siding. (It only has 1 star in Amazon)

Description
A water based and biodegradable gelled remover to remove latex based or polyurethane based foam sealants, polyurethane glues, silicones, latex caulks, construction adhesives, acrylic latex caulks, and more. Use to clean surfaces: Tile, porcelain, stainless steel, hand tools, marble, hard surfaces, hands, wood, plastic, ceramic, carpet, vinyl flooring, fabric, metal, Formica, glass, stone, granite, fiberglass, and more. Test for colorfastness of the surface to an inconspicuous area. 4.5 fl. oz. squeeze bottle.

This product has 5 stars http://www.amazon.com/McKanica-0351-...d_sim_sbs_hi_1
__________________

__________________

Lou and Laura with Bella - German Short Hair Pointer
2008 GMC Sierra 2500HD Crewcab SB Allison Duramax
2010 Flagstaff 8526RLWS - Superglide 3300
HAM CALLSIGN - KC3FFW
Herk7769 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-18-2013, 02:45 PM   #22
daydreaming about camping
 
jeeplj8's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: KC area
Posts: 1,400
I would go with the higher reviewed one. However the one I used (and I am not sure of brand, it was on an end cap at Home Depot and I gave it a try on a whim) made my job of cleaning existing caulk off a shower much easier.
__________________

__________________

2013 Coachmen Freedom Express 320BHDS pulled by a 2005 F250 King Ranch CC

A rainy day camping is better than a sunny day at work.
jeeplj8 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-18-2013, 03:06 PM   #23
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Soddy Daisy, TN
Posts: 50
Quote:
Originally Posted by herk7769 View Post
That is exactly how to do it. I keep a roll of 1/2 inch butyl tape and a tube of Proflex (as well as a tube of Dicor Self Leveling) in the tool kit at all times.
Just a couple more clarifications as to using the butyl tape, I'm going to Camping World this afternoon so what width of tape should I look for along with the Dicor or Proflex sealant (can I assume that if my tape is wider than the flange I can just trim the excess off with a knife before I apply the box to the RV)?
Assuming that the old components had butyl tape what should I use to clean the existing RV surface with (a scrapper or some acetone)?
On a rectangular flange like the shower box do I over lap the tape as I'm applying it on each side of the box to the outside corners or do I butt the strips of tape together at each corner?
On a round flange like my city water connection that I'm also replacing is the tape pliable enough to fit it to a round surface as a circle without bunching up or do I also cut it into rectangular strips and lay them side by side until I cover the entire back of the round flange?
And my last question is when I'm replacing the running lights would I also use the butyl tape on the base of the light assembly?
__________________
Stingingfork is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-18-2013, 03:43 PM   #24
Site Team - Lou
 
Herk7769's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: South Eastern PA
Posts: 21,154
I used a glass razor paint scraper to CAREFULLY shave any remaining butyl off the fiberglass wall. Use care with the Proflex as well. A finger covered with a cloth wet with lighter fluid or turpentine will clean off any excess.
__________________

Lou and Laura with Bella - German Short Hair Pointer
2008 GMC Sierra 2500HD Crewcab SB Allison Duramax
2010 Flagstaff 8526RLWS - Superglide 3300
HAM CALLSIGN - KC3FFW
Herk7769 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-19-2013, 06:45 PM   #25
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Orland Park, IL
Posts: 413
It seems that everyone here seems to be down on silicone. My dealer told me to use silicone on the walls and Dicor on the roof. I know that silicone is difficult to remove and nothing stick to silicone but silicone.

I have 25 years in the constriction industry and silicone is the best preforming sealant that we use. It is used on the tallest building and in the worst environmental conditions. There are test sample in Florida that have been exposed from the 60s that still are preforming. It is even used in the space shuttle.

RVs are not the space shuttle but it seems that this forum strive for the best preforming products. I am just curious why silicone has such a bad rap in the RV community. Help me understand why the best product for buildings is not so good for RVs.
__________________
2015 Rockwood Roo 23IKSS
2015 GMC Sierra 1500
Archicamper is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-19-2013, 06:54 PM   #26
Site Team - Lou
 
Herk7769's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: South Eastern PA
Posts: 21,154
I can only tell you what I think and I am no expert by any means:

1) A camper twists when going down the highway and every joint moves. Silicone will pull away from the wall over time and will never reseal.

2) You will be removing anything you put on every few years either because it broke or you wanted to upgrade it. It is more like adhesive than sealant. Getting it off aluminum frames and plastic fittings will make you pull your hair out.

3) This is not the only forum where most members think that what the RV industry uses is what we should use.

You, of course, are free to use whatever you want.
__________________

Lou and Laura with Bella - German Short Hair Pointer
2008 GMC Sierra 2500HD Crewcab SB Allison Duramax
2010 Flagstaff 8526RLWS - Superglide 3300
HAM CALLSIGN - KC3FFW
Herk7769 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-19-2013, 10:24 PM   #27
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Orange Texas
Posts: 608
Send a message via MSN to Tiggerdad
Not all silicone, or for that matter, other sealants are created equal.
__________________

2013 Crusader 330 MKS
2013 Chevrolet Silverado LT 2500 D/A
Tiggerdad is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-19-2013, 10:58 PM   #28
10x
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Dunedin, FL.
Posts: 567
Quote:
Originally Posted by EastlakeRoo View Post
I agree on the EternaBond. Just finished applying the tape to all caulking on the roof while the caulk was still new. Shouldn't have to worry about re-caulking the roof anymore. This is the best preventative measure in my book.
What width did you use for the front and rear roof seams?
__________________
2014 XLR 27 HFS
2010 F250 4x4 Crewcab Turbo Diesel
10x is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-20-2013, 10:11 AM   #29
daydreaming about camping
 
jeeplj8's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: KC area
Posts: 1,400
I think it is interesting that the RV industry does use silicone, but only in certain places. I noticed that where the front molded fiberglass cap on my unit meets the fiberglass composite walls, they used clear silicone to seal it. Everywhere else is traditional lap sealant. I can only surmise that because where the cap and sides meet they are like material they used silicone.
__________________

2013 Coachmen Freedom Express 320BHDS pulled by a 2005 F250 King Ranch CC

A rainy day camping is better than a sunny day at work.
jeeplj8 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-20-2013, 11:36 AM   #30
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Soddy Daisy, TN
Posts: 50
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stingingfork View Post
Just a couple more clarifications as to using the butyl tape, I'm going to Camping World this afternoon so what width of tape should I look for along with the Dicor or Proflex sealant (can I assume that if my tape is wider than the flange I can just trim the excess off with a knife before I apply the box to the RV)?
Assuming that the old components had butyl tape what should I use to clean the existing RV surface with (a scrapper or some acetone)?
On a rectangular flange like the shower box do I over lap the tape as I'm applying it on each side of the box to the outside corners or do I butt the strips of tape together at each corner?
On a round flange like my city water connection that I'm also replacing is the tape pliable enough to fit it to a round surface as a circle without bunching up or do I also cut it into rectangular strips and lay them side by side until I cover the entire back of the round flange?
And my last question is when I'm replacing the running lights would I also use the butyl tape on the base of the light assembly?
Could someone please comment on how to apply the butyl tape on rectangular and round flanges as well as proper way to seal the running lights.
__________________

__________________
Stingingfork is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by




ForestRiverForums.com is not in any way associated with Forest River, Inc. or its associated RV manufacturing divisions.


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 11:43 PM.