small hole in roof and corner seal damage

ellisz · 10-11-2012, 12:02 PM

Hi all,

This is our first season with the TT (255RS) so I am still learning. On a recent roof inspection, I noticed a pen tip size hole in the roof. It is near the edge of the camper. Based on some reading here, is Dicor Lap sealant my quick fix here?

My next issue I can't explain. I have the camper in a barn and recently noticed damage to the rear left corner. It looks like the metal(I think it is metal) trim pulled away and then went back - somewhat. I have no idea how it happened. My plan was to fix the metal that is overlapped and I assumed I would seal it but silicone appears to be discouraged. Can anyone give me an idea of how to fix this? Also, is there a way that this could have happened with the slide out? Other than hitting something, I cant tell how this would have happened. I have not hit anything to my knowledge.

Thanks for any help

TexasBBQ · 10-11-2012, 12:31 PM

For the roof use the Dicor self leveling sealant. If it's on a vertical portion of the roof get the Dicor non-leveling sealant. Once you put it down you can mold it/shape the bead with your finger. Just be sure to dip your finger in some soapy water so you don't get it all over yourself. It's very tacky.

For most other caulking requirements use Proflex RV caulk.

ellisz · 10-11-2012, 05:10 PM

Thanks for the reply. I went around the corners and saw some cracking in the seals that was there and used the Dicor on it. Nothing big though.

I have attached a pic of the top of the trim that has pulled away from the camper. I also pulled the lower corner cover off. There was a screw on the bottom and I was wondering if there was a screw on the top under the sealant?

I was able to get some of the side panel back in but it looks like I need to take a mallet to the trim. The trim is metal on the edges and plastic in the middle. Any ideas on how to get this back in place?

Thanks,

Dave_Monica · 10-11-2012, 06:28 PM

The plastic strip in the corner trim is removable with a lot of care. Once the plastic strip has been removed, there will be lots of screws along the length of that corner moulding...they're in part, what attaches the rear panel to the sides. I mentioned before on your previous posting that there must be a reason that this moulding has moved. Perhaps the screws have stripped, come loose, something. Whatever the reason, it will have to be corrected.

Dave

VinceU · 10-11-2012, 06:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ellisz

Hi all,

This is our first season with the TT (255RS) so I am still learning. On a recent roof inspection, I noticed a pen tip size hole in the roof. It is near the edge of the camper. Based on some reading here, is Dicor Lap sealant my quick fix here?

My next issue I can't explain. I have the camper in a barn and recently noticed damage to the rear left corner. It looks like the metal(I think it is metal) trim pulled away and then went back - somewhat. I have no idea how it happened. My plan was to fix the metal that is overlapped and I assumed I would seal it but silicone appears to be discouraged. Can anyone give me an idea of how to fix this? Also, is there a way that this could have happened with the slide out? Other than hitting something, I cant tell how this would have happened. I have not hit anything to my knowledge.

Thanks for any help

My suggestion would be to give it to a body shop familiar with RV's to repair that corner. If water gets in that joint it will no longer be a nuisance it will be a major repair. They don't insert an edge of of an outside wall, they must renew the entire wall. Once the edges are water soaked, rotten and mildewed its time for a major repair. Its not bad yet......I faced a major repair when dripping from a piece of trim wouldn't stop, then did then resumed. The wood inside damage (in a corner) was big time.

ellisz · 10-11-2012, 08:04 PM

Dave - I will admit that I really did not understand what you were saying in the other post but I do now

I had hoped for a DIY solution but looks like I will have to take it in. If I take this to an RV dealer, what type of cost would this be - best case scenario? I assume even if I get the plastic trim off, it wont be as simple as tightening things up.

Dave_Monica · 10-11-2012, 08:27 PM

It looks like the back wall has separated from the sidewall about 1/2" at that corner. I'm assuming moulding has not separated off the other (back wall) face. I'd suggest to remove the plastic strip and moulding enough to see what damage there may be. I hate the thought of taking it to a dealer without some idea of the damage. I guess that says all about my trust level with dealers. Last I was in a dealer, their posted labor rate was $120/hour...ouch!

I couldn't possibly speculate what the cost could be.

Dave

VinceU · 10-11-2012, 09:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ellisz

Dave - I will admit that I really did not understand what you were saying in the other post but I do now

I had hoped for a DIY solution but looks like I will have to take it in. If I take this to an RV dealer, what type of cost would this be - best case scenario? I assume even if I get the plastic trim off, it wont be as simple as tightening things up.

I think you'll get a better job and much faster at a shop that does fiberglass work for trucks and buses etc. Thats what I did whein I had a minor mishap with a rearcap contact with wood pole (ouch). I think it would be quicker and cheaper too cause they specialize in this work. Take pics like you have and ask for a quiote.

ellisz · 10-11-2012, 11:12 PM

The other side looks ok at this point. I will see if I can get the corner trim off. The plastic center looks brittle though. This thing sit outside while the previous owner had it ... I have kept it inside but the damage was done. Sucks.

Thanks for the replies!

ellisz · 10-12-2012, 11:42 AM

If I get the center strip out and unscrew the trim, what will be needed to put it all back together? I have some proflex caulk and some Dicor self leveling sealant but will I need anything else? Will I need any sealant tape or similar?

I figure I can get it apart. Putting it back together might be a bit trickier

I can imagine that the plastic piece will be a PITA.

Dave_Monica · 10-12-2012, 02:29 PM

I'd only try to remove the lower section starting from the bottom...only enough to have a look and see what the problem is. There may be a open gap or if it's water damage the laminate may have swoolen and there's no gap between the sides and back panel.

Very likely that you'll won't be able to fix it yourself. Again it's speculation as we don't know the cause of the problem. The moulding is installed and caulked on both edges with Dicor.

As VinceU suggested, a shop that specializes in fiberglass repair may be able to repair that edge.

Dave

ellisz · 10-13-2012, 10:05 AM

I pulled the lower section off today and all I can see is that the aluminum frame seems to be out farther in the middle where the trim was pushed out. Isn't his normal? I am guessing no.

The thin wood behind the skin looks Ok but I don't think the trim piece can be put back with the frame where it is.

I can't attach a pic from my phone though...

Update... I extended the back slide and it pulled the frame back in to where it is almost flush. What could be causing the back to push out when the slide is brought in?

Dave_Monica · 10-13-2012, 11:43 AM

You mentioned your camper is a 255RS...is that RS as in rear slide?

If so the rear wall separation could be caused by improperly adjusted stops on the slide mechanism. I had a couch slide TT that would bulge the wall wall out until I adjusted the mechanical stop.

Try bringing the slide all the way in then bumping it back out slightly and see if the wall is where it should be.

Dave

ellisz · 10-13-2012, 12:06 PM

It does have a rear slide and it appears to be what is causing the issue. The Wall starts bulging before it gets all the way in though.

I have tried to look behind the skin but it is hard to see a whole lot. After removing the trim at the bottom and middle, there are 3" screws that go into the skin and into the frame. These were under the trim and had sealer over top of them. I assume this is all factory.

If the frame is moving before the slide is all of the way in, could the frame be damaged? It almost looks like a straight vertical piece is at the bottom and goes up. Then there is 2 angle pieces that are in the middle to make the rounded section. When the bed is all of the way out it looks good. As soon as you start bringing it in, it starts moving at the rounded section and above.

Dave_Monica · 10-13-2012, 12:27 PM

I think you may have reached the point where you need the dealer to correct the problem with the slide. If there's an access panel under the bed slide and you could look at the mechanics when it's moving, you may be better able to understand what the cause may be. At least you've spent the time to narrow down the possible causes.

I know I've unfortunately have reached the limit of understanding the issue without be able to see it.

ellisz · 10-13-2012, 12:43 PM

Thanks for your help. I have called a local rv repair shop to get some more help... Hopefully.

ellisz · 10-13-2012, 06:25 PM

The place I called was not a whole lot of help....

I went ahead and screwed everything back together and caulked the trim. I was able to get it back to where the skin was behind the trim. It did hold up to putting the slide out and back in and the caulk was not cured yet.

Will a reputable shop be able to pull the skin back to check for frame damage? To me it would need to be pulled back or the inside dismantled to see what is happening behind the walls. Just wondering if I should just see what happens as it sits, look at repairing it or cutting my losses and trading it in? It is a 2005 model so I don't know if putting a few thousand in it for repairs is smart.

09grizzly1 · 10-14-2012, 12:08 PM

I think I would trade it in.Repairs on the side and rear wall could be very expensive.The frame could be broken in behind the wall.

Dave_Monica · 10-14-2012, 01:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ellisz

Will a reputable shop be able to pull the skin back to check for frame damage? To me it would need to be pulled back or the inside dismantled to see what is happening behind the walls. Just wondering if I should just see what happens as it sits, look at repairing it or cutting my losses and trading it in? It is a 2005 model so I don't know if putting a few thousand in it for repairs is smart.

Find a recommended repair shop and get a quote and see what's what.

Dave

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