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Old 09-08-2014, 09:47 PM   #11
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So here's a few more shots. After I looked at things a little closer tonight I'm thinking the floor just abuts the wall and does not go underneath.
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Above is the drivers side wall I'm thinking as the wood swelled it pushed into the side wall.

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This is the passengers side, just behind the step. Here it defiantly looks like it just meets the wall.

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When the drivers side cargo doors are up you can see how much delamination there is. The wall bows out. Ideas on fixing this will also be appreciated.

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So here's 2 shots looking up from under the cargo doors. I was planning on using some west epoxy to get the wall resecured. I'm thinking I have 2 options to fix the bowing out of the cargo doors. One is longer screws run into the new flooring. The other is the add an angle iron and use self tapers into it


Tim, 2000 Gulfstream Conquest, 32'
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Old 09-28-2014, 10:45 PM   #12
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Slowly making progress. This weekend I completed removal of the kitchen cabinet and furnace. Sheeting was pretty wet under the furnace. I'm debating in what to do next. I have next weekend then will be gone the weekend after that. I know I'm running out of nice weather. I gave the girl a bath and used the Dicor cleaner and sealer on the roof.

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I left a fan run on the area for awhile. Hoping I truly did get the leak sealed.

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There's this small area on the roof where you can see the black of the epdm showing through. Should I try and repaint this year or wait till spring.


Tim, 2000 Gulfstream Conquest, 32'
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Old 01-17-2015, 11:41 PM   #13
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I'm having to reconstruct the floor of the front storage bin in my 2011 T25KS Salem - water leak. Particle board floor fell apart and dry rot as claimed the right side of the compartment floor. I'm going to replace it with 5/8" marine plywood. Probably heavier, but much sturdier. Wouldn't think of using a lesser product. Will have to replace the support beams too. Once dry rot starts, the wood must be replaced.
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Old 05-21-2015, 07:59 PM   #14
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Well, I haven't updated in awhile. But it turned out well. Click image for larger version

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I used 3/4" plywood and some self taping metal screws to attach the floor to the subframe.
I then glued and screwed 1/4" luan over everything.

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Found a great deal in a scrap piece of Mannington vinyl. Normally $4.50/sq'
Found a scrap piece that was 7'7 X 18'6". I needed 7'8" by 17'10". And as a bonus it matched the counter tops better than what was there.

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