Sub floor repair help.

[An unknown person]

I have a 2000 gulfstream class A MH. I hope I am not in too deep. Has anyone else got into this sort of mess? Any tips, hints, ideas (short of light it on fire and take the insurance claim) are appreciated.

So it appears there was a leak that originated from the stove exhaust vent. This was a failure at the factory.
Notice how the left side if the vent has no wood where the center screw would be and next to mouthing at the top left corner screw.
There is delamination on the side wall emanating from the vent down and out. I added in some luan around the area (2-3" strips) around the vent area. Used Gorilla glue and clamps.

Now for the really ugly part.


I already removed the dining table and jack knife couch. I'm guessing I'm gonna have to pull out the sink/stove & fridge. All of the sub flooring underneath will need to be replaced. I'm planning on pulling windows and revealing everything. I'm hoping once all the bad flooring is removed I will give it a couple of good rain storms and maybe a sprinkler on the roof for a week end to make sure I fixed all the leaks and then I'll replace the sub floor and use some West epoxy on the side walls.


Tim, 2000 Gulfstream Conquest, 32'
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[VinceU]

Originally Posted by An unknown person

I have a 2000 gulfstream class A MH. I hope I am not in too deep. Has anyone else got into this sort of mess? Any tips, hints, ideas (short of light it on fire and take the insurance claim) are appreciated.

So it appears there was a leak that originated from the stove exhaust vent. This was a failure at the factory. Attachment 62247
Notice how the left side if the vent has no wood where the center screw would be and next to mouthing at the top left corner screw.
There is delamination on the side wall emanating from the vent down and out. I added in some luan around the area (2-3" strips) around the vent area. Used Gorilla glue and clamps.

Now for the really ugly part.
Attachment 62248

I already removed the dining table and jack knife couch. I'm guessing I'm gonna have to pull out the sink/stove & fridge. All of the sub flooring underneath will need to be replaced. I'm planning on pulling windows and revealing everything. I'm hoping once all the bad flooring is removed I will give it a couple of good rain storms and maybe a sprinkler on the roof for a week end to make sure I fixed all the leaks and then I'll replace the sub floor and use some West epoxy on the side walls.


Tim, 2000 Gulfstream Conquest, 32'
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I think your repair plan is solid (no pun intended), just need to make sure the edges of your OSB board insert occupy 1/2 the width of all sub floor stiffeners, just like home construction.

[VinceU]

Originally Posted by VinceU

I think your repair plan is solid (no pun intended), just need to make sure the edges of your OSB board insert occupy 1/2 the width of all sub floor stiffeners, just like home construction.

One more note, the enclosed photo showing the horrible cutout for the vent indicates a seal all the way around. The luan inside and outside is not rotted, I'm thinking this isn't the source of the leak.

[BigJohnD]

By the looks of the interior water damage, you'd almost think something with the sink water lines or drain was leaking. Kind of surrounds that area.

[An unknown person]

The only thing with the sink is the MH was not used last summer. Has not been used this year either. The tanks have all been empty and the sub floor was still wet.

[vinmaker]

You have a good handle on the job.

As you are discovering, the entire unit is constructed on the subfloor and vinyl. This means that in order to repair it, you must remove all inside cabinets and anything that rests on the floor. You will want to pay particular attention to the wall on that side as water can wick up the wall as well. You will also need to make sure you get new plywood under the outside wall to give it proper support.

Good luck.

Vin.

[An unknown person]

Any ideas on how to get the wood under the side wall?? On the driver side there is a steel lip/channel that comes in about 4" from the side wall. I was looking at that issue and trying to figure out just how to accomplish that.
Had I realized the extent of the damage I don't think I would have bought it.

[BigJohnD]

On most motorhomes, the wall does not sit on the floor like the typical travel trailer. The wall is bolted / screwed to the side of the floor and framing, usually above the lower cargo doors where you see that trim running the length of the motorhome. This is the case with Forester, Sunseeker, Georgetown, Berkshire and our previous Tiffin class A. There is a thread on the bolts shearing on the forum somewhere, and you'd be able to see the floor pulled up in one. Either way, you can remove that floor without affecting the wall. Of course the water still could've damaged the wall some.

[An unknown person]

Ok, so I spent most of today working on ripping out the sink and cabinet. There are a lot of wires running through the cabinet area. Not sure if I should cut and splice or if I should try to trace them and disconnect and pull them back and then try to fish them back through (obviously I would tie off a line to make fishing them back easier.)

I did spend some time crawling around underneath and have developed a plan for floor replacement using several existing steel cross members and beams. Gulfstream used 5/8" "structure" board (OSB). Not sure if I should use OSB or pressure treated. I had someone today recommend marine grade plywood.

I am still perplexed as to trying to get the flooring under the wall. I did get the stove vent blocked up properly where all the screws are biting into wood. Lined the back side with butyl tape and then siliconed around the top and sides. Left the bottom open. Gonna be 2-3 weekends before I can work on it again. So there's plenty of time for rain and to make sure I truly did stop the water leak.


Tim, 2000 Gulfstream Conquest, 32'
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[VinceU]

Can you post a pict of the outside wall at floor height? Then maybe it will be apparent if the wall is continuous or the floor.


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[An unknown person]

So here's a few more shots. After I looked at things a little closer tonight I'm thinking the floor just abuts the wall and does not go underneath.

Above is the drivers side wall I'm thinking as the wood swelled it pushed into the side wall.


This is the passengers side, just behind the step. Here it defiantly looks like it just meets the wall.


When the drivers side cargo doors are up you can see how much delamination there is. The wall bows out. Ideas on fixing this will also be appreciated.




So here's 2 shots looking up from under the cargo doors. I was planning on using some west epoxy to get the wall resecured. I'm thinking I have 2 options to fix the bowing out of the cargo doors. One is longer screws run into the new flooring. The other is the add an angle iron and use self tapers into it


Tim, 2000 Gulfstream Conquest, 32'
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[An unknown person]

Slowly making progress. This weekend I completed removal of the kitchen cabinet and furnace. Sheeting was pretty wet under the furnace. I'm debating in what to do next. I have next weekend then will be gone the weekend after that. I know I'm running out of nice weather. I gave the girl a bath and used the Dicor cleaner and sealer on the roof.



I left a fan run on the area for awhile. Hoping I truly did get the leak sealed.


There's this small area on the roof where you can see the black of the epdm showing through. Should I try and repaint this year or wait till spring.


Tim, 2000 Gulfstream Conquest, 32'
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[Destravlr]

I'm having to reconstruct the floor of the front storage bin in my 2011 T25KS Salem - water leak. Particle board floor fell apart and dry rot as claimed the right side of the compartment floor. I'm going to replace it with 5/8" marine plywood. Probably heavier, but much sturdier. Wouldn't think of using a lesser product. Will have to replace the support beams too. Once dry rot starts, the wood must be replaced.

[An unknown person]

Well, I haven't updated in awhile. But it turned out well.

I used 3/4" plywood and some self taping metal screws to attach the floor to the subframe.
I then glued and screwed 1/4" luan over everything.



Found a great deal in a scrap piece of Mannington vinyl. Normally $4.50/sq'
Found a scrap piece that was 7'7 X 18'6". I needed 7'8" by 17'10". And as a bonus it matched the counter tops better than what was there.