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Old 03-26-2012, 03:55 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by jwittenberg View Post
You can also use 3M 5200. It's a marine sealant I have used it on many boats. You can get it at most paint supply stores I have even seen it at home depot. There is clear and white. There is also a quick set I think is 4200. It's great stuff and stick to almost anything.
Personally, I would never use this on my roof as a sealant. If you ever had to replace the membrane you would rip up the wood veneer underneath trying to remove it.

Having said that, I keep a tube around the house and one in the camper. It really helps sticking stuff to the camper where you NEVER want to it move or remove it.
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Old 03-26-2012, 04:21 PM   #22
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to texas bbq: the screws I use are similar than the ones installed. on the new stainless screws I coated the treads with a rubberrised silicone and also inserted the same through the hole of the screw before reinstalling the new replacement. I am including a few photos specially one that the screws were quite rusted near the stove vent. My trailer is a 2011 so you can see that it does not take long when water start to seep on the screws with no sealant.My new screws are one inch and a quarter versus the one inch installed . No problem at all for that extra one quarter longer.
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Old 03-26-2012, 04:25 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by herk7769

Personally, I would never use this on my roof as a sealant. If you ever had to replace the membrane you would rip up the wood veneer underneath trying to remove it.

Having said that, I keep a tube around the house and one in the camper. It really helps sticking stuff to the camper where you NEVER want to it move or remove it.
That makes a lot of sense. I was referring to sealing the screws. I guess I could have clarified that. I too keep some around the house.

I don't understand why they used regular screws on something designed to stay in the open air. It just puzzles me. When mine gets back from the stealership I will have to take a look.
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Old 03-26-2012, 04:27 PM   #24
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to texas bbq: the screws I use are similar than the ones installed. on the new stainless screws I coated the treads with a rubberrised silicone and also inserted the same through the hole of the screw before reinstalling the new replacement. I am including a few photos specially one that the screws were quite rusted near the stove vent. My trailer is a 2011 so you can see that it does not take long when water start to seep on the screws with no sealant.My new screws are one inch and a quarter versus the one inch installed . No problem at all for that extra one quarter longer.

Great job.. Thanks for the idea. On my to do list for sure.
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Old 04-01-2012, 04:20 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by capucine View Post
to texas bbq: the screws I use are similar than the ones installed. on the new stainless screws I coated the treads with a rubberrised silicone and also inserted the same through the hole of the screw before reinstalling the new replacement. I am including a few photos specially one that the screws were quite rusted near the stove vent. My trailer is a 2011 so you can see that it does not take long when water start to seep on the screws with no sealant.My new screws are one inch and a quarter versus the one inch installed . No problem at all for that extra one quarter longer.

Yep, I like that look. The rusted screws in your photo look exactly like waht I've got. Are those #8.

I think my local Home Depot or Lowes carry them. Next trip I'll take a look.

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Old 04-02-2012, 04:56 PM   #26
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Yes they are #8 screws. The one that I replaced on the door for the holder were # 10 because they were stripped. Remember that many of these screws are not installed in a very solid ground. Many of them are only in the sandwitch pannelling and are very easy to turns free. You have to go very easy and you should have no problems at all for the installation. I dont regret at all replacing with stainless steel screws and the cost was less than $ 35.00 for the whole trailer.
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Old 05-19-2012, 09:40 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by capucine
Yes they are #8 screws. The one that I replaced on the door for the holder were # 10 because they were stripped. Remember that many of these screws are not installed in a very solid ground. Many of them are only in the sandwitch pannelling and are very easy to turns free. You have to go very easy and you should have no problems at all for the installation. I dont regret at all replacing with stainless steel screws and the cost was less than $ 35.00 for the whole trailer.
Great idea! Is on my list too.
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Old 07-19-2012, 09:07 AM   #28
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Stainless steel screws

I read in a boating mag. that stainless and alum. are not a good idea to combine, the stainless will cause the alum. to corode?
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Old 07-19-2012, 09:25 AM   #29
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I read in a boating mag. that stainless and alum. are not a good idea to combine, the stainless will cause the alum. to corode?
It's called galvanic corrosion. Any time you have two metals that aren't exactly the same, they will cause each other to corrode.
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Old 07-19-2012, 10:34 AM   #30
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I finally got mine done over the 4th holiday. I got the screws at Home Depot, #8 and #10. Took a couple hours - it looks so perdy.

It probably would have taken less time if I hadn't stopped so many times to drink those cold beers.

Cheers
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Old 07-19-2012, 11:26 AM   #31
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Oh, gee... now you woke me up and I guess I need to do this too. Love the idea.

Off the Home Despot to get screws....

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Old 07-19-2012, 11:32 AM   #32
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jeeze.. why dont the factories take the extra step and make it all stainless to begin with? oh yeah then they wouldnt rust and rot! lol
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