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Old 04-01-2014, 05:39 PM   #1
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Will this work on my roof?

Long time, no input from me. Long story, and I won't bore you with it anyway. I have a 1999 Forest River Salem 25BH, travel trailer. It has had a small week spot on the passenger side rear corner, for a few years. I patch the roof there every year, and eventually it starts to leak there again, ever so slightly. This year, I an going to fix it. Here's my plan at this moment, and I was fishing for opinions on the viability of my plan.
1. I am going to cut away the old rubber roof, tear out the old crunchy melame roof decking to the first wood joist, wish I anticipate to be 24" from the back.
2. I will repair the substructure as needed, and replace the melame as needed.
3. I will then lay NEW rubber roof material approx. 30" from the back with a 6" overlap of the original rubber roof. I will use glue, Dicor lap sealant or other reccomened by the RV store, to "glue" the 6" overlap area. I will then trim up the excess and put the side trim back and seal everything up.
4. I will then run a 6" strip of eternal bond over that seam, and seal around that with lap sealant.
5. I will them re-coat the entire roof, new, and old, with liquid rubber roof.

Any thoughts? Over kill? Won't work, for what reason? Or, Paul (That's me), your crazy, fix the substructure an replace entire rubber roof?
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Old 04-01-2014, 05:57 PM   #2
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If it was me I would check into this or something similar.
Rhino Eco-roof?
or
Rhino Lining on your roof???
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Old 04-01-2014, 07:56 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daddyntwins View Post
Long time, no input from me. Long story, and I won't bore you with it anyway. I have a 1999 Forest River Salem 25BH, travel trailer. It has had a small week spot on the passenger side rear corner, for a few years. I patch the roof there every year, and eventually it starts to leak there again, ever so slightly. This year, I an going to fix it. Here's my plan at this moment, and I was fishing for opinions on the viability of my plan.
1. I am going to cut away the old rubber roof, tear out the old crunchy melame roof decking to the first wood joist, wish I anticipate to be 24" from the back.
2. I will repair the substructure as needed, and replace the melame as needed.
3. I will then lay NEW rubber roof material approx. 30" from the back with a 6" overlap of the original rubber roof. I will use glue, Dicor lap sealant or other reccomened by the RV store, to "glue" the 6" overlap area. I will then trim up the excess and put the side trim back and seal everything up.
4. I will then run a 6" strip of eternal bond over that seam, and seal around that with lap sealant.
5. I will them re-coat the entire roof, new, and old, with liquid rubber roof.

Any thoughts? Over kill? Won't work, for what reason? Or, Paul (That's me), your crazy, fix the substructure an replace entire rubber roof?
Sounds like a good plan to me. Dicor has some helpful roofing information at this link http://www.dicorproducts.com/resources/guide/RudysRoofbook_16.pdf
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Old 04-03-2014, 10:13 AM   #4
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I have a soft spot in my TT's roof also next to the AC unit. I havent found any leaks inside so i'm not sure how the substrate got wet and rotted but my plan was to remove the AC unit, hopefully cut the rubber roofing so i can get full access to the rotted substrate, repair/replace as necessary, hopefully place cut out section of rubber roof back down and seal joints with eternabond tape. I dont think the lap sealant is necessary since the videos i've seen of eternabond, that should be a good enough seal. I'd probably skip the liquid rubber coating step since i dont think it'd help much in your case. But just know that the current roof wont last forever. My plan is to get a couple years max out of the repair then replace the membrane with a commercial rubber roof, my buddy's son does it for a living and can get me a great price on whatever size i need. The rubber i've seen him install is very heavy duty and should outlast any epdm you could buy from an rv supply place.
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Old 04-03-2014, 10:21 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by BBQin View Post
I have a soft spot in my TT's roof also next to the AC unit. I havent found any leaks inside so i'm not sure how the substrate got wet and rotted but my plan was to remove the AC unit, hopefully cut the rubber roofing so i can get full access to the rotted substrate, repair/replace as necessary, hopefully place cut out section of rubber roof back down and seal joints with eternabond tape. I dont think the lap sealant is necessary since the videos i've seen of eternabond, that should be a good enough seal. I'd probably skip the liquid rubber coating step since i dont think it'd help much in your case. But just know that the current roof wont last forever. My plan is to get a couple years max out of the repair then replace the membrane with a commercial rubber roof, my buddy's son does it for a living and can get me a great price on whatever size i need. The rubber i've seen him install is very heavy duty and should outlast any epdm you could buy from an rv supply place.
The liquid rubber roof is to cover the original roof that is not damaged, but is turning gray and chalky, and needs some serious attention. I figured I would cover the entire roof, new and old to create a homogenous look and life span. If one or the other part would need to be re-coated, then probably entire thing would need recoating. Also, in the event that the TT would be sold, a prospective buy would see a roof in one condition, not a "new" or "old" section.
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