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Old 04-17-2012, 07:11 PM   #1
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Location: British Columbia
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Compartment Door & Window Sealing

I am in the process of resealing all of my windows and compartments and thought I would share with everyone what I have found and what I am doing.
Job was not difficult but did eat up some time.

In the not too distant past I overheard an RV tech talk about how he does a lot of resealing of the rv windows and compartments as most of them are installed dry fit. Do not know what "dry fit" meant but if it was apply a small bead of caulking here and there behind the frame of the compartment or window and than apply a bead around the outer edge... Well I guess that is what I had. He stated that as purchased it was not a matter of if but when a compartment or window would leak. Proper sealing he stated was to remove the old windows and compartments and apply butyl tape and than recaulking. This done properly would last many years.

I have recently noticed that my vinyl was just starting to lift on the inside of two of my compartment doors. Indication of a leak.

What I found...
Once I removed my three compartment doors I could see clear indication where water was getting in on ALL THREE doors. That is 3 out of 3 people.

Tools used...
I set up a table by my compartment door and put out all my tools that I would need:

Grease pencil - to mark the location of the screws as I found once removed and butyl tape applied it was easier to align the screws back in the original holes. The openings are larger than the doors or windows so there is some play and with the marks you can find the holes.

Drill - to remove the screws and to put the screws partially back in.
Screw driver - used to hand tighten the screws the remaining way.

Window scraper & knife - to remove the old caulking and break the seal on the caulking around the frame.

Isopropyl alcohol - to clean the area around the opening and frame after the old caulking has been removed.

Butyl tape

Plastic squeegee - to trim the excess butyl tape after installation

Proflex RV caulking - Used 3-4 days after the butyl tape has set.

Auto touch up paint - repainted the screw heads after installation so that they do not rust.

What I did...

1. Using a grease pencil, I made a small mark on the fibreglass just above or below the screws. This made finding the holes very easy. The cut out openings are larger than needed so there is some play for the frame and with no marks you will have a little fun trying to find the original holes.

2. Once I removed the screws, I used an exacto knife to go around the edge of the frame to break the caulking. (careful not to cut into the fibreglass)

3. Opened the compartment door and grabbed the frame and carefully started to pull and work the frame free from the trailer.

4. Used a window scraper (razor blade) to remove the old caulking from the fibreglass. The exacto knife I used to remove the old caulking from the frame itself.

5. Used Ispropyl Alcohol to clean the area around the frame and opening where the butyl tape would be touching.

6. Starting at the bottom center and working around I applied the butyl tape butting up against the edge of the opening. Apply a little pressure to hold in place specially around the corners as it will start to come back off if not.

7. Remove the paper backing from the butyl tape.

8. Re-install the door aligning the screw holes up with your marks. You can start the screw part way with your drill but I would recommend hand tightening for the last few turns. Butyl tape will squeeze out of the edge somewhat while tightening.

9. Using a plastic squeegee follow the edge of the frame around trimming the excess butyl tape away.

10. Wait 3-4 days or so for the butyl tape to set than apply a bead of Proflex RV caulking around the frame over the butyl tape.

11. Lastly, I used an auto touchup paint to go over the screw heads so that they do not rust.

I have posted some pictures in an album for everyone (could not see how to change the order) To view, Click here

Big difference with the windows is that you have to remove the valances and shades on the inside. The screws are located around the inside of the frame (inside the rv) and you will require and extra set of hands on the outside to grab the window so that it does not fall out and break.

This was a youtube link of an RV tech doing this job:

Glad I caught this early. Compartment doors done and I will be working on the windows over this upcoming weekend. Inexpensive job as the tape is around $8 a roll and the Proflex caulking around $10 a tube. Probably use about 3 of each. Other than that just a bit of time.

Hope this info saves someone on some expensive repair job.

Cheers -- Oregoncamper

2008 Rockwood 8317SS - 2010 F150

2013 Camping Days: 22
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Old 05-17-2012, 12:12 PM   #2
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Join Date: May 2012
Location: Chicagoland
Posts: 17
Thanks for posting this OregonCamper,

I thought that rear storage door looked familiar. We have the 2009 version of your trailer. I had a front window leak last season that I cured with a healthy bead of Dab DynaFlex caulk (Home Depot version of Proflex as far as I can tell). I have a similar leak in the front curb side storage door that I believe is due to cracking weatherstrip inside the door frame. However, after checking out your album I may just re-do all three storage doors and the front window the same way while I'm replacing the weatherstrip.

Odd thing about the storage door leak is that the door and frame had been re-seated just over a year before by the factory when they replaced the entire side wall and roof. I doubt they re-used the butyl tape but the weatherstrip looks like it was taken out of the channel and re-installed for some reason. Are the only screws holding the frame in the camper body installed in the outside channel?


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Old 05-17-2012, 12:16 PM   #3
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your pics didnt come through on your post .
the video did tho
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Old 05-21-2012, 06:33 PM   #4
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Location: British Columbia
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5Galvs, Yes, the only screws holding the compartment frames to the body are on the outside of the frame. Took a little prying working on one ends corner to break free the caulking bead. I believe I used a putty knife and careful use of an exacto knife to break the seal to remove the door.

I have since found that they did install all of the windows using the butyl tape but scratch my head and wonder why they did not use the butyl tape on the compartment doors.

I have uploaded the pics to my album. Hopeful those work for anyone wishing to see.
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2012 89 2011 50 2010 61
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