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Old 07-18-2010, 06:32 PM   #1
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Door Closer Issue

When I found a white screw on my folding steps I had no idea how it could have gotten there. A quick search located the empty hole at the top of my door.

Our 2010 8526RLWS has an air shock at the top of the door which at first look is a life saver on a windy day. It has prevented the door from flying off in a stiff breeze. We have learned to be very careful opening the door since the piston is very powerful and will yank the door out of your hand when it gets about an inch open.

Thus my issue. When I examined the door piston the brackets on the wall were very loose and of the three holding the door bracket on, one was on the step, the middle one was loose, and the third one was stripped out at the factory and caulked in place. The bracket on the frame was held in with very short screws that only hit the aluminum door trim and were too short to engage the trailer wall framing.

Not only that, but the closer yanks on the door so hard that it has pulled the top away from the hinges so the door no longer is vertical to the frame (it hits the top left corner and sags at the lower left corner).

I repaired the closer brackets by drilling completely through the door and installed 2 inch #10-32 SS Bolts held in place with nylon insert nuts and a SS washer. The frame bracket was repaired by removing the short screws and replacing them with 2 inch screws that actually engage the trailer wall frame.

Since the hinges are "pop" riveted to the door, I am still pondering what to do about that. Trying to bend the hinges does not work as the wall flexes.
Suggestions?
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2008 GMC Sierra 2500HD Crewcab SB Allison Duramax
2010 Flagstaff 8526RLWS - Superglide 3300
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Old 07-19-2010, 12:14 AM   #2
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We had an issue very similar. Check out my fix in the Georgetown MH Thread under this "GT378 Main Door Closer"
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Old 07-19-2010, 07:21 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by betndavrv2 View Post
We had an issue very similar. Check out my fix in the Georgetown MH Thread under this "GT378 Main Door Closer"
Wow, Awesome fix.

Now to figure out how to keep the "closed" closer from pulling the door away from the frame and I will be set.
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Old 07-19-2010, 05:14 PM   #4
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our 2010 Cedar creek came from the factory with a 40# closer, put way too much stress on door and us, CC changed it to a 14# closer, much easier on all concerned
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Old 07-19-2010, 10:04 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by bob34787 View Post
our 2010 Cedar creek came from the factory with a 40# closer, put way too much stress on door and us, CC changed it to a 14# closer, much easier on all concerned
Woah!
Where did you get it?

I would love that link
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2010 Flagstaff 8526RLWS - Superglide 3300
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Old 07-20-2010, 05:11 AM   #6
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The closer came directly from cedar creek, you could call kevin at CC and ask him.
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Old 07-20-2010, 05:32 AM   #7
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Are there any adjustments on the end of the door closer, I don't have on on my camper so I wouldn't know, however storm door closers have 1 adjustment and commercial door have 4.
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Old 07-20-2010, 06:03 AM   #8
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Are there any adjustments on the end of the door closer, I don't have on on my camper so I wouldn't know, however storm door closers have 1 adjustment and commercial door have 4.
no adjustments, just a gas piston, they come in different pressures, Cedar creek for some reason thought 40# was a good piston, however most cannot close the door without overcoming the resistance of the 40# closer and that put a lot of stress on both the door and the person doing the closing. Cedar creek replaced mine under warranty for a 14# piston, we can now push it closed with one hand.
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Old 07-20-2010, 07:59 AM   #9
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The closer came directly from cedar creek, you could call kevin at CC and ask him.
Thanks, I will see if my "so called" dealer will help me here.
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Old 07-20-2010, 08:09 AM   #10
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good luck with that, if you need kevins number at cedar creek let me know. I m not allowed to go back to my dealer, I was labeled as a difficult customer and told never to return.
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