Electric Awning seems off track

tgamlen · 06-02-2012, 12:13 PM

I put the elecric awning out today to wash it off from last weeks camping trip. Went to close it and it appears to not be closing straight but crooked. It is not flush against the camper and it seems to be off to the right and does not neatly go into its support brackets on the camper. Is it because I am sitting on a slight hill. I have never noticed it before and maybe it was always like this. It is a 2012 Flagstaff 26FKSS.

LadyWindrider · 06-02-2012, 12:22 PM

Depending on the slope, if it is front to rear, could force a lot of weight to the low side. On most, the bolts can be loosened, and the top brackets shifted to get things in alignment. Will need a tall ladder though, and a 7/16 inch wrench, (I think). You will also have to roll the awning out a little to gain access to the bolts.

VTX Al · 06-02-2012, 12:28 PM

Common issue. Can be straightened out, but is a two person job. Extend the awning to the point that the mounting channel is directly opposite the trailer wall. One person on a ladder in the center of the awning tube, lifts the tube to relieve the awning tension. Second person, on a ladder at the end of the awning tube, in the direction you want to move the awning, tugs on the fabric, moving it to the appropriate location. This may have to be done a couple of times to correctly locate it so that it nests properly when retracted. I then mark the tube with a black marker for future reference. At this point some folks install a pop rivet through the fabric and into the tube to prevent further migration of the fabric. I have not done the rivet thing to date, but probably will in the future.

...VTX-Al

tgamlen · 06-02-2012, 12:29 PM

The slope is quite significant. Should I just re-roll it up on level ground before we travel? Or will it never close right again even on level ground without doing what you suggest?

OldCoot · 06-02-2012, 12:40 PM

It may not be centered on the roller, roll it out completely, measure from each end and make it the same on both ends of the roller. Using large head 3/16" dia pop rivets, drill thru the side hem and install rivet on both ends of roller.

BTW, this awning is overextended to facilitate centering and installing the pop rivets. There should not be a valley between the material and the roller. The material should go over the roller without the valley.

fonzie · 06-02-2012, 01:28 PM

Does your awning has the rain dump feature? If it's been rolled up and the rain dump was not fully extended, maybe that is the issue?

tgamlen · 06-02-2012, 05:26 PM

I am not sure if it has the rain dump feature. How do I find this out. Our dealer sucks and it is a waste of time calling them. Instruction manulas are too generic. I did notice that the fabric is not rolled up evenly on both sides of the awning. i am hoping that when we are on level ground that things will litarally fall into place.

OldCoot · 06-02-2012, 05:31 PM

Level ground makes no difference, the material must be centered on the roller and the rain dump does not come into play either other than it will make the material slide to the low side. You must center the material on the roller, roll it up to make sure it is centered, then unroll it and rivet it in place. Your problems will be over.

The rain dump, when it works, is built into all power awnings. From our experience, it will bend the tube slightly before it dumps. It is a worthless feature. The awning should always be tilted and not rely on the rain dump feature. Voice of experience.

VTX Al · 06-02-2012, 05:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tgamlen

I am not sure if it has the rain dump feature. How do I find this out. Our dealer sucks and it is a waste of time calling them. Instruction manulas are too generic. I did notice that the fabric is not rolled up evenly on both sides of the awning. i am hoping that when we are on level ground that things will litarally fall into place.

I wouldn't count on this happening ! (See my previous post to manually realign it). If your electric power awning has a gas strut and a black knurl tightening knob on each awning arm, then it has the rain dump capability. Two ways of utilizing this feature when it rains (assuming that the awning is extended) 1. Just ignore it , the rain will find the "low" end and eventually accummulate enough to cause that end to overcome the gas strut and the awning will dip a foot or so to dump the water. 2. Or, you can manually lower one end of the awning or the other, depending on which way you want the rainwater to drain , and lock it down by tightening the black knob on the strut on that end.

...VTX-Al

OldCoot · 06-02-2012, 05:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tgamlen

I am not sure if it has the rain dump feature. How do I find this out. Our dealer sucks and it is a waste of time calling them. Instruction manulas are too generic. I did notice that the fabric is not rolled up evenly on both sides of the awning. i am hoping that when we are on level ground that things will litarally fall into place.

Your problem can be solved in about 30 minutes with a ladder and someone to run the awning out just about to its limit and then work the material to center it on the roller. Roll it up, then roll it out to the limit and rivet it. Job finished, problem solved.

Then go camping and have fun!

LadyWindrider · 06-02-2012, 06:02 PM

DUNNC,

I realize that you have solved your problem with a pop rivet. This is not the correct way. The awning material has extra long rubber cords that are at the end of the fabric. These cords are in the grove, and should be cut to length to square the material on the roller. This is what keeps the material from shifting while in transit, and when the wind blows and the awning is out. You must remove the end caps, (dangerous as one of them is spring loaded), to cut the cords any, or in most cases, shift the material. If these cords hit the end caps, will be very hard to shift the material on the roller tube. Also, where the awning attaches to the camper, there will be screw on each end, down through the track, securing the fabric in the trailer channel. These aren't that hard to remove, and maybe the fabric can be shifted on the camper.

Now the reason I know this, I changed over 20 last year, as a a part time RV tech. I get called to change awning material, and repair tire damage, and most complicated electrical stuff.

While the pop rivet may work, it will also put a hole in the awning over time. I do realize it will be on the edge, but still a hole.

OldCoot · 06-02-2012, 06:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by windrider

DUNNC,

I realize that you have solved your problem with a pop rivet. This is not the correct way. The awning material has extra long rubber cords that are at the end of the fabric. These cords are in the grove, and should be cut to length to square the material on the roller. This is what keeps the material from shifting while in transit, and when the wind blows and the awning is out. You must remove the end caps, (dangerous as one of them is spring loaded), to cut the cords any, or in most cases, shift the material. If these cords hit the end caps, will be very hard to shift the material on the roller tube. Also, where the awning attaches to the camper, there will be screw on each end, down through the track, securing the fabric in the trailer channel. These aren't that hard to remove, and maybe the fabric can be shifted on the camper.

Now the reason I know this, I changed over 20 last year, as a a part time RV tech. I get called to change awning material, and repair tire damage, and most complicated electrical stuff.

While the pop rivet may work, it will also put a hole in the awning over time. I do realize it will be on the edge, but still a hole.

Of the 8 awnings I have owned, none of them had the cord cut to the proper length including our new 12 Flagstaff and they will not keep the material from shifting. As for drilling a hole in the hem of the awning, it is covered with the rivet and will not tear or be detrimental in anyway. The screws in the trailer groove should be left alone as the material is usually always centered on the arms there.

Bottom line, the OP can do it anyway he wants, just telling him the simple, fast, easy permanent solution.

He can also center the material on the roller and put a screw in the roller tube to hold the cord on both ends, but I have never had a hole propagate in the hem.

DonG · 06-03-2012, 06:22 AM

"Now the reason I know this, I changed over 20 last year, as a a part time RV tech. I get called to change awning material, and repair tire damage, and most complicated electrical stuff."
---------------------------------------------
Nothing better than having a pro answer the questions!

OldCoot · 06-03-2012, 04:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by windrider

DUNNC,

I realize that you have solved your problem with a pop rivet. This is not the correct way. The awning material has extra long rubber cords that are at the end of the fabric. These cords are in the grove, and should be cut to length to square the material on the roller. This is what keeps the material from shifting while in transit, and when the wind blows and the awning is out... Now the reason I know this, I changed over 20 last year, as a a part time RV tech. I get called to change awning material, and repair tire damage, and most complicated electrical stuff.

While the pop rivet may work, it will also put a hole in the awning over time. I do realize it will be on the edge, but still a hole.

If all this were correct and the cords were cut correctly, then it would still be centered, but it isn't. Nuff said.

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