Keeping awning off slide out

[eds451]

I have a 2018 2650ws UltraLite with a long awning that extends over the slideout. Soon found the awning was rubbing on the edge of the slideout. I contacted FR and my dealer and they replaced the awning. BUT..I told them this would happen again as I feel the awning was installed too low allowing it to contact the slideout and wear. So I am taking steps to prevent premature wear by placing thick pool noodles on the slideout edge. Only time will tell if my solution works.

P.S. The bright yellow matches my Revolution wedge and rear stabilizer pads..LOL.

[M & A Camping]

I use bright green on mine so I can see them

[Wiscampsin]

Great idea!

[DaGrinch]

I use yellow noodles on the lower edge and sides of my bedroom slideout so as to warn others - slideout is on the curb side, so it can get in the way. It also helps protect my head when I get in the storage compartment under the slide.

I like eds451's idea.

[Fishtexx]

My parents bought a similar unit by Flagstaff. I bought and installed some 1/2" pipe insulation with the peel and stick edges (black with a slice the entire length of the pipe). It is thinner in diameter, protects the awning, and is glued to the upper lip of the slide. When the slide is closed, it does not interfere with the slide seal, and they do not have to remove and re-install when traveling to new places. As a bonus, it acts as an additional top weather seal when slide is closed.

[Jesse]

Found this pic, adjusted raised awning. Not sure if it is rain efficient at this angle or not.

[scusset1]

Hi, Thanks for the idea. I have a 20 foot awning that hangs over a huge slide and it always rubs against the top of the slide.
Your idea sounds like a permanent solution. Any chance you can add a picture of how you attached it to the top of the slide without affecting the closing of the slide room?
Many thanks!

Originally Posted by Fishtexx

My parents bought a similar unit by Flagstaff. I bought and installed some 1/2" pipe insulation with the peel and stick edges (black with a slice the entire length of the pipe). It is thinner in diameter, protects the awning, and is glued to the upper lip of the slide. When the slide is closed, it does not interfere with the slide seal, and they do not have to remove and re-install when traveling to new places. As a bonus, it acts as an additional top weather seal when slide is closed.

[formerFR]

I might imagine that the awning has several 'settings' for the height of the extended arms, allowing the awning to normally act as a shade, and not touching the slide trim, but adjustable to slope 'down' for rain runoff, if needed. Mine does.

per FR: "Power Awning w/ Adjustable Rain Dump and LED Light Strip"

[scusset1]

Thanks for the input. The awning is adjusted so it is straight out with no angle as to help alleviate the rubbing. It still rubs... Possibly a design flaw on FR's part...

[JohnD10]

Originally Posted by scusset1

Thanks for the input. The awning is adjusted so it is straight out with no angle as to help alleviate the rubbing. It still rubs... Possibly a design flaw on FR's part...

Even though my 5'ver is an SOB (different brand), it looks to be the same layout.

I have the same slide out and the same issue.

The manufacturer won't admit to this being a 'design flaw'...been there, done that!

I also have the noodles along the top, but I still don't allow the awning to rest on them.

I hardly ever put the awning out all the way because of this...but have learned to live with it

[JohnD10]

Originally Posted by scusset1

Any chance you can add a picture of how you attached it to the top of the slide without affecting the closing of the slide room?

You must remove the noodles every time you close the slide...

[5picker]

Originally Posted by JohnD10

You must remove the noodles every time you close the slide...

You do have to remove the noodles but the question was about the post where thin pipe insulation was used instead of the noodles. They were able to leave the insulation in place without impeding the slide when closed.

The thin insulation is available at any big box home improvement store.
It has adhesive strips that are designed to hold the insulation together but when used over the slide trim flange, it adheres to the trim flange and keeps it in place always. Never have to remove it.

I use the 90º corner insulation pieces on my lower trim flanges to keep from bumping my head and just leave them in place.

[JohnD10]

Originally Posted by 5picker

You do have to remove the noodles but the question was about the post where thin pipe insulation was used instead of the noodles. They were able to leave the insulation in place without impeding the slide when closed.

The thin insulation is available at any big box home improvement store.
It has adhesive strips that are designed to hold the insulation together but when used over the slide trim flange, it adheres to the trim flange and keeps it in place always. Never have to remove it.

I use the 90º corner insulation pieces on my lower trim flanges to keep from bumping my head and just leave them in place.

When my slide is closed all the way the top of the slide is tight against the trailer wall.

No room for anything to be left on there without forcing the top of the slide to not close all the way.

Not a good idea to leave anything on there...

[Fishtexx]

Originally Posted by scusset1

Hi, Thanks for the idea. I have a 20 foot awning that hangs over a huge slide and it always rubs against the top of the slide.
Your idea sounds like a permanent solution. Any chance you can add a picture of how you attached it to the top of the slide without affecting the closing of the slide room?
Many thanks!

The 1/2" pipe insulation at Lowes/Home Depot is black and has a slit lengthwise and come in 4' pieces, just stick them end to end and leave about 1" overhang on each end.. There is sticky applied to both edges of that slit with a clear plastic that you peel off. The insulation pipe walls are about 1/2" thick. and pipe material is soft and very compressible. Clean both sides of the upper slide lip, put the pipe in place, peel and stick the back, then the front. If you look at your slide when closed, you will notice that outer slide lip does not suck up tight to the camper body. The foam insulation compresses easily and fills that small gap at the top when closed with no negative affects. I expect it will have to be replaced every few years due to deterioration, depending on exposure. I cant get pics, its on my parent camper and the are full timing on the road. Cost for fix is about $10. Good luck, it worked for them!

[Fishtexx]

Originally Posted by 5picker

You do have to remove the noodles but the question was about the post where thin pipe insulation was used instead of the noodles. They were able to leave the insulation in place without impeding the slide when closed.

The thin insulation is available at any big box home improvement store.
It has adhesive strips that are designed to hold the insulation together but when used over the slide trim flange, it adheres to the trim flange and keeps it in place always. Never have to remove it.

I use the 90º corner insulation pieces on my lower trim flanges to keep from bumping my head and just leave them in place.

Exactly!! Thanks for the clarification 5picker!

[5picker]

Originally Posted by JohnD10

When my slide is closed all the way the top of the slide is tight against the trailer wall.

No room for anything to be left on there without forcing the top of the slide to not close all the way.

Not a good idea to leave anything on there...

The pipe insulation is thin and smashes easily.
It will compress to less than 1/8" when the slide is closed. No issues.

[JohnD10]

Somehow I doubt that this solution would survive long down here in the AZ desert sun...

Especially when the summer temps reach 120+ degrees here in a couple of months.