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04-05-2016, 09:42 PM
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#21
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 373
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How do you know witch way to move it?
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04-05-2016, 10:02 PM
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#22
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Mod free 5er
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 24,702
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gmann55
How do you know witch way to move it?
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Measure from each end of the roller to the material and make it the same on both ends. Once you get it centered, run it in and out a couple of times to make sure the arms close completely.
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04-06-2016, 08:15 AM
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#23
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: SouthWest Michigan
Posts: 5,977
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With the old style Manual Awning you needed 2 Men & a Step Ladder !!!
With the Power Awning,,, you may need 2 Step Ladders ???
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04-20-2016, 05:51 AM
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#24
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: West Carrollton, Ohio
Posts: 757
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ependydad
Do you just pull like there's no tomorrow? Or is there a trick to it?
My awning is 21 or 22 feet and I haven't figured out how to seemingly effect the positioning.
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My awning is about 21 ft as well. The first year of owning the camper the tube itself bowed a little from the bouncing while going down the road. I had an awning support installed and that has helped. However, when I retract the awning sometimes the fabric will wrinkle and the rear awning beam will not close all the way. I've been trying to figure out adjusting it as well without creating more issues. Have you had these issues?
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04-20-2016, 06:56 AM
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#25
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: SouthWest Michigan
Posts: 5,977
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OKI Marine
My awning is about 21 ft as well. The first year of owning the camper the tube itself bowed a little from the bouncing while going down the road. I had an awning support installed and that has helped. However, when I retract the awning sometimes the fabric will wrinkle and the rear awning beam will not close all the way. I've been trying to figure out adjusting it as well without creating more issues. Have you had these issues?
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Where we camped we had a step ladder,,, so I would have to clime up and persuade the arm to unlock in,,, also @ times I would have to use the ladder to unlock the arm !!! Arms MUST be locked before traveling !!!
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04-20-2016, 07:25 AM
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#26
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Waynesville
Posts: 14,428
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wolverine 1945
Where we camped we had a step ladder,,, so I would have to clime up and persuade the arm to unlock in,,, also @ times I would have to use the ladder to unlock the arm !!! Arms MUST be locked before traveling !!!
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I thought the subject is Elet.Awning? There are No locks on the arms! Youroo!!
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04-20-2016, 07:26 AM
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#27
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Mod free 5er
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 24,702
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Have found out you have to center the material on the tube. It is a PITA job requiring 2 people, at least one ladder and deploying the awning. Once the material is centered on the tube, I pop rivet both ends thru the side hem.
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04-20-2016, 08:17 AM
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#28
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: SouthWest Michigan
Posts: 5,977
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Quote:
Originally Posted by youroo
I thought the subject is Elet.Awning? There are No locks on the arms! Youroo!!
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You could be right Youroo,,,
it sure sounded a lot like our old manual one !!!
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04-20-2016, 08:42 AM
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#29
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: West Carrollton, Ohio
Posts: 757
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wolverine 1945
You could be right Youroo,,,
it sure sounded a lot like our old manual one !!!
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I'm talking about electric ones. That's what I have, hince the word retract in my post
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11-13-2016, 10:41 AM
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#30
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 373
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OC. Are you building any awning deflapper poles for a@e awnings. Any pictures of what you have made?
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11-13-2016, 10:53 AM
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#31
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Left Coast
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: vancouver,washington
Posts: 15,649
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Deflappers are easy to make yourself...,when I came up with them, I patterned them after the awning poles so that they'd stay attached and telescope....I used the existing factory awning arm bolt hole at the trailer with a longer bolt and added one out at the outer end.....a slip fit....because the de-flapper itself will keep the pole on the outer pin......conduit works good and costs next to nothing, and if one uses shrink wrap over inner pole, in just a couple of places, there's no rattle in poles
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11-13-2016, 10:54 AM
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#32
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Left Coast
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: vancouver,washington
Posts: 15,649
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11-13-2016, 10:58 AM
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#33
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Left Coast
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: vancouver,washington
Posts: 15,649
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Looks like I need to touch up the paint.....and since these were taken, the outer bolt has been changed to a pin....bolt with threads ground off
The pole then stores on a pin at the bottom edge of awning arm attached to trailer. I use small hairpin clips at the bottom in a hole I drilled thru pin
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11-13-2016, 01:10 PM
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#34
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Mod free 5er
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 24,702
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I don't make de-flapper poles, just the Awning Pole Attaching Kit which accommodates the DF Poles. After Bob came up with the idea, Turbs made me a set of DF poles out of electrical emt and powder coated them and they still rust around the holes and inside. I am going to see if I can get some similar size material in alum while I am in FL in a couple of weeks and make a set out of aluminum and polish them to match my poles.
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11-13-2016, 01:16 PM
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#35
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Left Coast
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: vancouver,washington
Posts: 15,649
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Oh sure....make me go to Online Metals again!.....lol
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11-14-2016, 09:04 AM
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#36
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: SouthWest Michigan
Posts: 5,977
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OKI Marine
I'm talking about electric ones. That's what I have, hince the word retract in my post
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Manual awnings retract also !!!
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