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Old 07-13-2015, 08:35 PM   #71
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I have seen awning supports made with PVC "T" fittings of the correct diameter for the awning roller in the cross bar of the "T" cut in half to support the roller and a vertical telescoping slip tube for the legs.

Drill a series of holes 1 inch apart in the smaller diameter leg and use D Clevis pins to adjust the leg height.

While I am only guessing at measurements, the idea would be like a 4 inch x 4 inch x 3/4 inch "T" Cut the 4x4 cross bar "top" off with a band saw to make the roller "yoke". Make the top "leg" out of 3/4 inch PVC pipe with the adjustment holes and a 1 inch PVC pipe for the lower leg.

Loop the tie down strap over the roller (supported by the yoke and leg) and tie to a screw in (or bucket of sand) to keep the roller from moving up and down. There should be no weight on the arms at all using this method and the tension will be along the material of the awning so the material will not "flap" in a normal wind.

Drop the legs if thunderstorms are forecast as the contraption won't handle strong winds (above about 20 MPH) due to forces acting on the camper mounts.
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Old 07-13-2015, 08:39 PM   #72
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Or use OC's pre-made brackets and Turbs Poles.
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Old 07-13-2015, 08:48 PM   #73
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Good video of operation and noises you may hear. More folks should view it. Thanks for posting. Later RJD
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Old 07-13-2015, 10:08 PM   #74
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Carrier, I know the same thing but the ones I see have the awning pulled all the way down. Lowest position and then the door rubs it.

They see the poles on my camper and all say they need that. If they have never seen it they aren't aware of what can be done.


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Old 07-13-2015, 10:36 PM   #75
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Could even go one step further by making adjustable telescopic de-flapper poles that stay attached to awning hardware bolted to trailer.
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Old 07-13-2015, 10:44 PM   #76
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Or use OC's pre-made brackets and Turbs Poles.
Are those brackets riveted onto the arm?
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Old 07-13-2015, 10:46 PM   #77
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Are those brackets riveted onto the arm?
Upper uses one existing bolt and then riveted in another location that needs to be drilled.

Lower is also riveted.

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Old 07-13-2015, 10:47 PM   #78
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Are those brackets riveted onto the arm?
Not riveted, bolted on with stainless steel bolts. One bolt is factory and another is furnished with the kit along with a ss nyloc nut. You have to drill one hole for each upper bracket using the bracket as a template.
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Old 07-13-2015, 10:49 PM   #79
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Not riveted, bolted on with stainless steel bolts. One bolt is factory and another is furnished with the kit along with a ss nyloc nut. You have to drill one hole for each upper bracket using the bracket as a template.
Yep, never mind, the lowers I was making I started using rivets then went to stainless countersunk bolts.

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Old 07-13-2015, 10:50 PM   #80
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Upper uses one existing bolt and then riveted in another location that needs to be drilled.

Lower is also riveted.

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Lower bracket is the only place rivets are used. The upper bracket uses the factory bolt in the upper 11/32" dia hole and drill the other 11/32" dia hole in the upper bracket. NO RIVETS IN THE UPPER BRACKET.
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