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Old 12-06-2014, 03:21 PM   #1
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2015 Solera 24S - Inoperable Slide

Bought it two days ago, new, and now we're 170 miles away from the dealer on a weekend. Got home and the slide won't operate. No noises when the switch is depressed; connected to shore power; everything else works; tested all fuses for continuity, as well as 20 amp Circuit Breaker on panel at stairs and all fuses inside under kitchen; tried with battery disconnect ON and OFF; tried with key in ignition, key ON, Key OFF, no key; moved both seats all the way forward; checked rocker switch and all wires are connected; looked under slide for circuit protector or any other components besides the motor - wiring attached to motor and no components visible. Found lots of good info about slide problems but mostly for trailers. I could use guidance on how to diagnose if the rocker switch is operating correctly. Other than that, we're out of ideas short of returning to the dealer for warranty service. I do have a multi-meter. Any ideas or suggestions would be very welcome indeed.
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Old 12-06-2014, 03:47 PM   #2
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Usually, a rocker switch will not feel right if it has gone bad but there are always exceptions. To check continuity with a meter first set it to measure ohms. Pop out the switch you wish to check and unplug wire. Put you meter leads, one on each terminal, and activate switch. You should see the meter to go zero ohms. This would also be a good time to check if you have 12V power to the switch.
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Old 12-06-2014, 04:12 PM   #3
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I don't know which slide-out mechanism Forest River is using on the 2015 Solera "S" model - on our 2012 "S" we have the Lippert Flush Floor slide. If you search the Solera subforum, you will find lots of slide-out posts (Solera - Forest River Forums).

Also, Lippert has manuals on the internet - this one looks very similar the the one in our 2012 "S" and includes a trouble shooting guide: http://dutchmen.com/image/data/docum...ice_Manual.pdf

Our slide-out is locked out - won't work - if the vehicle ignition is on - so be sure the vehicle is off.
Again on our 2012, I believe the slide-out is separately fused to the house batteries before the house disconnect switch. The slide-out works on ours with the house disconnect switch in the "off" position. I haven't had to find the fuse or circuit breaker, but I would start searching in that area - in the stair well, at the batteries, and around the disconnect switch. The back of the disconnect switch is accessible by removing the drawer below the kitchen sink (again, on our 2012).
Another thought - check for voltage at the slide-out switch - haven't done this, but I would try pulling the switch out of the panel and measuring for 12 volts (to ground, I believe) at the switch wires.
If you have the same slide-out as we have, you could check for voltage at the slide-out motor when the button is pressed. The motor is visible on ours through the propane door - mounted above the propane regulator. I believe there is a connector to the motor down there - accessible (with some difficulty) from below / through the propane compartment / or through the compartment behind the propane compartment). If you can disconnect that connector and test for 12 volts with your multimeter while someone activates the slideout switch - you can verify that power is getting to the motor. Hopefully, you will measure "0 volts" between the connector terminals and ground - proving an electrical (rather than motor) problem. For safety reasons, make sure the motor is disconnected when performing this test - you don't want the slide to start moving while you are reaching up there!
Of course, if you have a different slide-out mechanism (e.g., the Schwintech mechanism) all of the above is unrelated - google Lippert Schwintech to find a manual and/or troubleshooting guide.
Good Luck - I know slide-out issues just after purchase are quite infuriating - ours broke the motor mount off the frame on about the fifth slide-out actuation after purchase - also several hundred miles from the dealer.
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Old 12-07-2014, 11:06 AM   #4
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Thanks for all the advice. The slide is the Lippert design .. applying this knowledge base didn't resolve the problem. We will be taking the Solera to the dealership for repair. I will post the remedy / outcome for all interested follks to read.
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Old 12-07-2014, 06:24 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MiataHoarder View Post
Thanks for all the advice. The slide is the Lippert design .. applying this knowledge base didn't resolve the problem. We will be taking the Solera to the dealership for repair. I will post the remedy / outcome for all interested follks to read.
Please do.
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Old 12-07-2014, 07:31 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MiataHoarder View Post
Thanks for all the advice. The slide is the Lippert design .. applying this knowledge base didn't resolve the problem. We will be taking the Solera to the dealership for repair. I will post the remedy / outcome for all interested follks to read.
Thanks.

A friend of mine had a failure in the molex connector https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Molex_connector in his '12. That issue was and under sized wire that ran to the motor. He needed to wiggle the connector. I believe its located in the stairwell area and is round. That making the assuption its a power supply to the slide motor issue. FR subsequently uped the guage wire in late'12's and beyond.
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Old 12-08-2014, 02:50 PM   #7
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The Solution - A Missing Fuse

I'm not smart, just persistent. I assumed that all the fuses were in the correct position. When the fuses all tested OK, I assumed the problem was elsewhere. This morning, on a whim, I had Sandy operate the slide switch while I tested each fuse terminal for power. One of terminals immediately showed 13 volts; however, it didn't have a fuse! I placed a 15 Amp fuse in the slot and bingo, the slide worked.

Before leaving the dealership, the automatic step stopped working and one of the techs replaced a little blue fuse. We didn't see how or what he did. My assumption is that he may have removed the slide fuse to replace the blown one for the step. Then, maybe forgot into which terminal he needed to insert a new fuse for the slide. We may never know why the fuse was missing. The arrow in the photo shows where the fuse should have been.

I never tested a fuse block for power before and probably will never encounter a missing fuse problem again! Maybe I should send the dealership a bill?
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Old 12-10-2014, 10:27 AM   #8
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Why the fuse was missing ... Aha moment!

The saga continues. We were so happy to diagnose the problem we overlooked the bigger picture. Why was the slide fuse missing? During the pre-delivery inspection, the slide was extended. It was raining heavily so any paintwork issues weren't visible. After the "inspection" we went inside to sign papers, after which, we left to turn in the rental car. When we returned, the RV was in a different location. The slide was in the retracted position. The fuse HAD TO be there to retract the slide and so it had to be removed by one of the dealership employees after it was retracted. Question is why?

Despite all our calls to the dealership and "helpful" suggestions on what to look for, no one ever asked "Do you see a 30 amp fuse?" Its the only one in that fuse block. We tried a 15 amp - which blew after 1 slide extension. Then a 20 amp with same result. Finally determined a 30 amp was the correct fuse. That one lasted 2 cycles (about 5 minutes apart) before blowing. While the slide was out, we noticed unusual vertical abrasion / scratches on the sides and similar abrasions on the bottom.

Our conclusion can only be that the dealership did not want us to operate the slide and thats why they removed the fuse. If we'd operated on site, we would not have bought the thing. The scratches and fuse issues point to a mechanical defect in the slide mechanism. Their motive? I can only guess that by being 170 miles away, they're hoping the problem will just go away.

Since we have not registered the RV, the dealership remains the owner. We are negotiating with them to either refund the purchase price or replace our RV with the same unit that is defect free.

Does anyone have advice about intervention from Forest River? A person's name perhaps who can influence dealerships?
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Old 12-10-2014, 11:46 AM   #9
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Just to be clear, the material on the sides of the slide and the wall of the unit are just residue from the slide seals or masking tape from the paint shop. Those are not abrasions...that will come off with a little soap and water.

The ones on the bottom could be abrasions...but that is a flush floor slide...the key is to make sure there is no debris under the slide room for it to drag on. The big thing is to get the slide operating properly. Is the fuse still blowing?
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Old 12-10-2014, 11:46 AM   #10
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Also, you would be better served for this to be posted in the Solera forum. Frankly I don't look in the general tech section all that much.
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