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Old 03-29-2016, 08:52 AM   #1
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Inside Slide-out Fascia about to coming off

Both slide-outs on our 2016 Forester 2701DS have issues with the inside fascia flexing in when extended fully. It appears to be slowly separating from the plywood strip attached to the inside slide-out edge. The bedroom slide top rail is bad and could eventually drop on the bed. I keep pounding the fascia back in place with my hand.
Has anyone removed their fascia and more securely attached it? It appears the fascia is stapled on to the plywood strip along with a middle insert cover.The plywood strip seems to be where the flexing starts. I'd rather secure it myself than take it to the dealer at this time. I have pneumatic tools to do the job.
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Old 03-29-2016, 09:12 AM   #2
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All the staples in the world wont help if the Slide adjustment is NOT correct! The Trim board is Not the Stop! Adjust slide! Youroo!!
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Old 03-29-2016, 11:47 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by youroo View Post
All the staples in the world wont help if the Slide adjustment is NOT correct! The Trim board is Not the Stop! Adjust slide! Youroo!!
I did, Schwintek bedroom and Lippert above Floor Slide.
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Old 04-21-2016, 10:43 PM   #4
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The slides are adjusted properly. But the damage has been done as they are bent out. Aren't most slide out fascia stiff and semi rigid? Would nails or screw tighten things up or should I pull the fascia, securing the plywood strip to the slide out wall end. Then reattach the fascia with staples? I've heard of the fascia falling off onto the bed or dinette. How were they reattached?
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Old 04-26-2016, 03:11 PM   #5
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Top fascia so loose it practically fell off, Broke it!

My bedroom slide-out fascia was very loose and the staples weren't holding it. Pounding with my hand would knock it back in but the brads weren't holding it. I pulled it off so we wouldn't have it dropping on us while in bed. Was going to make an appointment with the dealer to get it fixed. The fascia was very bowed and when I tried to bend it, it snapped in two. It was just a thin MFD with vinyl wrap. Oh no now what???

So I was going to call the dealer, but thought I may end up having to pay for this out of my own pocket since I broke it.
Lucky for me, I have made some Arts and Crafts furniture as a hobby and have all the tools to make a new one.
So I did out of solid cherry. Looks better than the original in my DW's opinion. Rather than bore everyone with ALL the details, I thinned and cut 3/4" cherry to size. Routed out the datto for the 1/4" insert strip piece and rabbeted another piece for the crown. The end caps contour were cut with my scroll saw and 1/4" strips attached to the side. Lots of sanding. Put it all together and stained it. Just need to apply a top coat and it will be ready to attach to the slide.
Great, now the DW wants me to remake the all! Not expensive, the wood was only $20 for that piece. Cost less than the gas to take the MH to the dealer and back.
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Old 04-26-2016, 11:18 PM   #6
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That turned out great...what stain did you use?
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Old 04-27-2016, 12:23 AM   #7
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That turned out great...what stain did you use?
From Rockler Woodworkers
General Finishes Antique Cherry with another layer of General Finishes Mahogany. Tried brush-on water-based top-coat, but came off on brush. Used spray on water-based top coat. Not exact, just close enough for us. Read prep instructions.
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Old 04-30-2016, 03:23 AM   #8
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Because of the difference in the cherry tone of the new top fascia and old vinyl sides, I've decided to make the side fascia also in solid cherry also. Going to experiment with the General Finishes stains to try and get a closer match with layering. Adding a second coat of mahogany because of the top-coat bleeding I mentioned before cause it to darken too much. If I find a better match, I can re-finish the top fascia to match.
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Old 04-30-2016, 07:39 AM   #9
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Are you reattaching with countersunk screws and bungs or just staples as before?
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Old 04-30-2016, 08:53 AM   #10
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Are you reattaching with countersunk screws and bungs or just staples as before?
I used the same length brads as FR and, 3 course countersunk drywall screws placed at middle and ends. Also, I made the fascia slightly thicker than original.
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