Schwintek Slide Problem - Page 2

OldCoot · 05-14-2014, 08:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LKicklight

Spoke with Lippert Customer Service yesterday, explained to them our problem with our bedroom slide not coming evenly. We were given instructions on how to perform a procedure to get the two slide motors back in sync with one another. We plan to do that this morning as we do not have any fault lights on the control box. Lippert was good at responding to our problem, only hope it works as instructed.
kickster
ps: we are in Wall, SD, moving on to Custer, SD later today...

Good luck with the repair. When you're in the Custer area, make sure you go visit Crazy Horse Mountain. Was lucky years ago to meet Korczak Ziolkowski.

Hedemark · 06-01-2014, 08:22 AM

Just got a 2015 Coachman class A last week, set it up at home, and tried to take our first trip two days ago. The Schwintek slide out wouldn't come back in. It could not go back to the dealer until the slide-out was put back in. Coach-net sent two tractor-trailer mechanics to get the slide-out back in. They were clueless, but that didn't stop them. They spent the first hour analyzing the hydraulic system..... Not realizing that this had an ELECTRIC slide system. I found two Youtube videos showing how to analyze and repair this, and they changed their approach. The Synchronous controller indicated a short circuit in motor #2. Re-setting the controller for a manual override did not work. The two in-wall electric motors had to be removed. This required all of the trim and wooden framework around the slide-out to be removed. These diesel mechanics are not woodworkers. Much of the beautiful trim is busted. Dirty boots on the upholstery. Fins on floor ductwork broken. Heavy woodwork put on the floor, nail side down. Spilled their soda on the floor and counters. One guy wore pajamas. They forgot their electric screw gun, I loaned them mine. Their own truck wouldn't start, so I had to give them a jump. The bill: $315.00 cash, no checks or credit cards accepted. I am advised that I can submit the bill somewhere for reimbursement. We Missed our first trip, reservations cancelled at Park. We might miss our second trip too, depending on what it will take to get new trim. The interior of our 9 day old 2015 Coachman looks horrible, and my wife is crying. A Techie at Coach-net said that they have had some defective wiring harnesses causing the appearance of a short in a motor, and advised that the dealer should test the wiring before replacing a motor. The dealer appears to be first class. I'll find out soon if that is true.

vincetampa · 06-17-2014, 03:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 10x

Good video, anyone know where the controller is on a hyperlite xlr27hfs toyhauler?

I know this is late, but maybe it'll help someone else... I just had the slide on our xlr27flh act up last weekend. The slide was stuck OUT. Finished camping for the weekend, and packing up. The slide would not come in. Called support and they told us to look for the control box. "About the size of 2 cigarette packs".. we search long and hard and found it under the queen bed up front, in the far left-side storage area. It was tough to find the button to "Press 6 times and hold on the 7th time until lights blink" override. But with my sons fingers, we got it.

This allowed us to run the motor and pull in the slide. The override turns off the auto-sensing shutoff when bringing in the slide, so you have to turn it off yourself. It was pretty easy. Got the slide in and it's now at the dealer for service. Hoping it's covered as the trailer is only a few months old.

Hedemark · 06-17-2014, 08:20 PM

My slideout would not come in. Tried the over-ride, but no luck. A motor was burned out due to a wire getting chaffed by the slideout. You can't override a dead motor. It was a real mess for a Coach Net crew to get the slide back in! Repairs became extensive. This was a new unit.

Fasteel · 07-21-2014, 09:13 PM

I'm about to try and locate the motor release screw on my Hyperlite 27' XLR Toyhauler. I've talked to Lippert tech and being stuck at the IN position they say to unplug motors to release magnetic brake and get some buddies to help push out manually to get to the screw which has to be accessed from the outside. Even with a body shop rod jack it won't budge so I plan to make an educated guess and drill a hole thru the outside skin and hope to be able to get to the screw. I'll let you know how that comes out by Wed. or Thursday, I hope.

WEMig · 07-21-2014, 11:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fasteel

I'm about to try and locate the motor release screw on my Hyperlite 27' XLR Toyhauler. I've talked to Lippert tech and being stuck at the IN position they say to unplug motors to release magnetic brake and get some buddies to help push out manually to get to the screw which has to be accessed from the outside. Even with a body shop rod jack it won't budge so I plan to make an educated guess and drill a hole thru the outside skin and hope to be able to get to the screw. I'll let you know how that comes out by Wed. or Thursday, I hope.

Fasteel, see my comment below. I had the same issue with my slide stuck out and then in while I was on a trip. The screw to release each motor was under the gasket at the top corners of the slides. Try this before you drill through the skin of your camper. Also, you will need several helpers to do this. Two to disengage the motors and at least two to push the slide out or in. Let us know how it goes. The below comment is from a thread about a year ago. There are several threads on this subject.

By the end of that trip, I could get the slide in and out faster than the motors!

"I had the same issue. The brakes on the in wall motor would not disengage following the procedures. I had to remove the gaskets on either side of the motors on the outside. There was one silver screw that enabled access to the motors where I was able to manually disengage them to push the slide in. These directions came from a PT factory rep when we were stuck with the slide out."

Fasteel · 07-22-2014, 09:30 AM

I haven't crawled up a ladder yet to get a closer look but according to the videos and Lippert tech, the flange of the skin on the slide out is covering up the screw to disengage the motor. Unless it screws in from the top side between the skin flange and the trailer body skin, I think I'll probably have to drill a hole. My understanding is that the screw goes in horizontally from the outside into the square tube that the motor sets in and is , I assume, used as a set screw.

WEMig · 07-22-2014, 08:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fasteel

I haven't crawled up a ladder yet to get a closer look but according to the videos and Lippert tech, the flange of the skin on the slide out is covering up the screw to disengage the motor. Unless it screws in from the top side between the skin flange and the trailer body skin, I think I'll probably have to drill a hole. My understanding is that the screw goes in horizontally from the outside into the square tube that the motor sets in and is , I assume, used as a set screw.

Thats correct, screw is horizontal and should be accessible behind the rubber seal. Once the seal and screw is removed, you can access the gear of the motor. Removing the screw allows you to lift the gear from the track and the slide can be moved.

Fasteel · 07-22-2014, 10:09 PM

I have been measuring any reference points I can utilize to narrow down the spot from the outside on the slide out skin overlap area that I figure is as close as I can calculate, the center of the screw to know where to start the hole. I haven't gotten contact again with Lippert tech to see if they can give me some guidance as to the location I will have to center the hole. I have measured height of slide out roof from window edge, top of motor body from roof level of slide out, distance calc. of center to center between the motor shafts, and subtracted that from the overall width of the outside skin. I don't yet know if the screw lines up with the motor shaft center line but I assume it should. I mainly have to figure the height of the screw from the top of the skin panel or maybe from top end of trim behind it that attaches to the main trailer body wall skin, which is fiberglass. If you know that distance to locate the elevation of the screw center that would be great, assuming the 2 trailers are made the same. Thanks for taking the time to reply, I really do appreciate it.

WEMig · 07-23-2014, 02:52 AM

You don't have to drill a hole in your camper. The screw is accessible from the outside. One per motor located at the top corners of the slide.

Fasteel · 07-23-2014, 07:43 PM

I did have to drill the hole to gain access to the screw. I called Lippert tech help again and got a Gal that only knew how to read back the canned replies on her computer screen to my questions. She did turn and ask someone else nearby something a couple of times but wasn't much help anyway. Took an educated guess and hit the center of the screws location within 1/4". Used a 1-1/2" hole saw so I would have room to reach through it and get a grip on the rubber covering up the screw. That part turned out to be the easiest. Since the problem motor was at the front of the slide,(toward the front of the trailer) the space between the top of the slide fascia and the inside ceiling was about 8". Had to make a couple of custom tools with 3/8" cold rolled round at 48' long each to reach back over the slide top and pop the motor up with one tool while holding the rubber seal out of the way with the other one. Finally got the thing to move out little by little and at 8" out I ran out of energy for this session. I am going to take pictures of the process and the tools to post here and wherever might help someone else out when I'm done.

VinceU · 07-23-2014, 09:26 PM

I'm impressed. Looking fwd to your pics and progress. Always wondered how do you reach the motors/ brakes when closed. Video doesn't cover this.

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Fasteel · 07-24-2014, 10:06 AM

I'll try to post pictures here just to show what had to be done too gain access to the slide out motors in my 2013 Hyperlite 27' XLR toyhauler. I hope with these and text, both today and in the coming days, as I work to remedy the problem of the slide being stuck at the full IN position and fix whatever is wrong, that maybe if someone has the same or similar problem it will help. As a 40 plus year veteran truck frameman with extensive experience repairing travel trailers and motorhomes including body structure straightening as a sub-contractor to RV dealers and their repair facilities, I have some "issues" with both Forest River and Schwintek/Lippert as to the wisdom of this design but that is another matter. The tool pictureds is a length of 3/8" cold rolled round stock bent to use to lift the drive motors up remotely by reaching over the top of the slide out top to the mechanism and using a twisting motion on the handle end of the tool to pry the motor body up to de-couple it from the drive shaft. Then I could manually push the slide enough to get limited access to remove the motors and then to test wiring continuity etc. to find a cure. More to come.

jevanb · 07-24-2014, 10:25 AM

If I went to a dealer and they did what you did I would be pissed.. with no power the slide can be pushed out and the motor can be accesed. Drilling is a drastic last measure, and something I would not do or even think about doing, as a heavy structure acft mechanic I drill holes that have to meet strict requirements, could I do it yes but their is always a better way..

VinceU · 07-24-2014, 10:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jevanb

If I went to a dealer and they did what you did I would be pissed.. with no power the slide can be pushed out and the motor can be accesed. Drilling is a drastic last measure, and something I would not do or even think about doing, as a heavy structure acft mechanic I drill holes that have to meet strict requirements, could I do it yes but their is always a better way..

Aren't the brakes set on default (no power)??

B and B · 07-24-2014, 10:41 AM

They are set on, correct. I did this first hand myself, pull power. Get a long flat blade screwdriver and while putting gentle pressure on the slide walk it out to get full access. Learned that first trip with the TT to get the slide out. Did this from the inside. Blocked slide to get home once motors are disconnected no way to hold it in.

Brian

VinceU · 07-24-2014, 10:55 AM

What do you pry with screwdriver ? Unmesh motor from track? How about many have tracks front and back. Must be method to energise motor brakes to release?

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B and B · 07-24-2014, 10:59 AM

Moved the gear itself, you can get an inch at a time, held the gasket away with a stick.Go between front and back.

jevanb · 07-24-2014, 10:59 AM

If he could get it out something must of broken and it bound up. FASTEEL, we have wookie buttons at work that should fill the hole nicely they push in and come out easy , we use then on our freighter ball mats that cover the holes for the bolts.. pm me if you like a pict and I think I can send 2

B and B · 07-24-2014, 11:18 AM

I would agree, I had a harness problem, no hall sensor so no DC to run motors. I traded my trailer soon after for a larger 5th Wheel with a real bed so I am not sure how the new owners made out. The while kitchen was on the slide, seemed like a lot of weight. I have Thor motorhomes using Schwintek on a 20 ft slide. I helped a elderly couple last fall at a KOA get there slide in so they could get home. They were not very happy with the $225,000 but did understand problems do happen.

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