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Old 07-23-2014, 07:43 PM   #31
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Exclamation Partial success

I did have to drill the hole to gain access to the screw. I called Lippert tech help again and got a Gal that only knew how to read back the canned replies on her computer screen to my questions. She did turn and ask someone else nearby something a couple of times but wasn't much help anyway. Took an educated guess and hit the center of the screws location within 1/4". Used a 1-1/2" hole saw so I would have room to reach through it and get a grip on the rubber covering up the screw. That part turned out to be the easiest. Since the problem motor was at the front of the slide,(toward the front of the trailer) the space between the top of the slide fascia and the inside ceiling was about 8". Had to make a couple of custom tools with 3/8" cold rolled round at 48' long each to reach back over the slide top and pop the motor up with one tool while holding the rubber seal out of the way with the other one. Finally got the thing to move out little by little and at 8" out I ran out of energy for this session. I am going to take pictures of the process and the tools to post here and wherever might help someone else out when I'm done.
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Old 07-23-2014, 09:26 PM   #32
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I'm impressed. Looking fwd to your pics and progress. Always wondered how do you reach the motors/ brakes when closed. Video doesn't cover this.


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Old 07-24-2014, 10:06 AM   #33
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Partial success-update

I'll try to post pictures here just to show what had to be done too gain access to the slide out motors in my 2013 Hyperlite 27' XLR toyhauler. I hope with these and text, both today and in the coming days, as I work to remedy the problem of the slide being stuck at the full IN position and fix whatever is wrong, that maybe if someone has the same or similar problem it will help. As a 40 plus year veteran truck frameman with extensive experience repairing travel trailers and motorhomes including body structure straightening as a sub-contractor to RV dealers and their repair facilities, I have some "issues" with both Forest River and Schwintek/Lippert as to the wisdom of this design but that is another matter. The tool pictureds is a length of 3/8" cold rolled round stock bent to use to lift the drive motors up remotely by reaching over the top of the slide out top to the mechanism and using a twisting motion on the handle end of the tool to pry the motor body up to de-couple it from the drive shaft. Then I could manually push the slide enough to get limited access to remove the motors and then to test wiring continuity etc. to find a cure. More to come.
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Old 07-24-2014, 10:25 AM   #34
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If I went to a dealer and they did what you did I would be pissed.. with no power the slide can be pushed out and the motor can be accesed. Drilling is a drastic last measure, and something I would not do or even think about doing, as a heavy structure acft mechanic I drill holes that have to meet strict requirements, could I do it yes but their is always a better way..
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Old 07-24-2014, 10:36 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jevanb View Post
If I went to a dealer and they did what you did I would be pissed.. with no power the slide can be pushed out and the motor can be accesed. Drilling is a drastic last measure, and something I would not do or even think about doing, as a heavy structure acft mechanic I drill holes that have to meet strict requirements, could I do it yes but their is always a better way..
Aren't the brakes set on default (no power)??
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Old 07-24-2014, 10:41 AM   #36
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They are set on, correct. I did this first hand myself, pull power. Get a long flat blade screwdriver and while putting gentle pressure on the slide walk it out to get full access. Learned that first trip with the TT to get the slide out. Did this from the inside. Blocked slide to get home once motors are disconnected no way to hold it in.

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Old 07-24-2014, 10:55 AM   #37
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What do you pry with screwdriver ? Unmesh motor from track? How about many have tracks front and back. Must be method to energise motor brakes to release?


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Old 07-24-2014, 10:59 AM   #38
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Moved the gear itself, you can get an inch at a time, held the gasket away with a stick.Go between front and back.
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Old 07-24-2014, 10:59 AM   #39
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If he could get it out something must of broken and it bound up. FASTEEL, we have wookie buttons at work that should fill the hole nicely they push in and come out easy , we use then on our freighter ball mats that cover the holes for the bolts.. pm me if you like a pict and I think I can send 2
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Old 07-24-2014, 11:18 AM   #40
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I would agree, I had a harness problem, no hall sensor so no DC to run motors. I traded my trailer soon after for a larger 5th Wheel with a real bed so I am not sure how the new owners made out. The while kitchen was on the slide, seemed like a lot of weight. I have Thor motorhomes using Schwintek on a 20 ft slide. I helped a elderly couple last fall at a KOA get there slide in so they could get home. They were not very happy with the $225,000 but did understand problems do happen.
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