Slide clutch adjustment?

[cobrageek]

I have a new 2011 Roo 23RS (sat on the lot for 2 years) with a rear slide out queen bed. The rear slide tilts as it's moving in and out because it is only supported at the frame/slide point with a set of rollers. When we first used it the motor would push the slider frame tight against the trailer frame right at the end of the slide run which would help get the bed back to level. When the clutch kicked in we would stop and it seemed OK if maybe just a little tilted down.

We just made a good road trip with many slide in/out cycles and now the clutch is kicking in way too early so the bed never gets close to level. It even kicks in at times in the midle of the run in so I have to help push on the slider while someone holds the button.

Looking at the mechanism what appears to be the gear box says "Thomson Saginaw Performance Pak" on it. I don't know brand of the rest of the slider mechanism, but I'll look tonight at the paperwork and see if I can find a brand.

Does anyone know if there is a way to adjust the clutch so that it won't kick in as easily? Otherwise I'll have to take it to some place for warranty work (which is always a painful process). Thanks.

[Witch Doctor]

Slide-Out Owners Manuals - Lippert Components, Inc
lci1.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id...‎
You can try this link and it might help you. I had to adjust mine and it's not to hard to do if I can do it, better then a trip to the dealer....

[cobrageek]

Thanks gljurczyk. Can you try that link again? It didn't come through correctly somehow.

Is this the generic page of owners manuals? I found that from another post and poked around but didn't stumble across the one that matched my unit. I'll poke some more in hopes of finding it. Maybe the clutch mechanism is the same on all of them and I can find that adjustment help under a different model.

[cobrageek]

OK, I've peeked at all the manuals and none of them match exactly, but the electric motor models have some similarity. The adjustments I see discussed have to do with getting the slider square and appropriately positioned, but I think that's OK in my case.

Even stranger is that I haven't seen any mention of a "clutch" in any of these cases. The implication in these manuals is that the room will stop moving when it gets to one end or the other and then you stop pushing the button. So it's possible that the clicking noise I've been hearing and assuming it was a clutch is realy slipping gears.

Do these things even have clutches? If not, then there's definitely some gears slipping and they have been from the day we bought it. Sounds like I should call Rockwood.

[Witch Doctor]

Lippert Components, Inc Try that link. If your unit has a round tube maybe about 2" round on it that is where you adjust the in and out. I'm not sure if you have that one but I also found it on You Tube which shows you how to do it, in and out and left to right. I hope this helps. Mine was slipping the gears then I spayed some lube on the teeth and roller and the readjusted the setting. It should click once it is all the way in, you can change that by where you set it.

[cobrageek]

Thanks. That helped. going from that point I found the exact model; the "X-9 Electric Bed Slide": http://www.lci1.com/images/Flyers/co...emAssembly.pdf or X-9 Electric/Hydraulic Bed Slide

They have the correct drawing, but all the "manual" links go to a generic electric manual. I mentions that it does have an internal clutch, but doesn't indicate anything about adjustments. I've found a thread on another forum that included pictures of the clutch mechanism, but it really looks like it can't be adjusted.

I think maybe I'll call the lippert if I can find the right number and see what they say about it all. Let me know if you have any helpful ideas. Thanks.

[cobrageek]

OK, I called Lippert and they said that the clutch is not adjustable and that I needed to take it into a dealer for any work. They said it could be an alignment issue that is causing the clutch to slip all the time and that the dealer would work with them on any warrantees or problems.

I'm going to try moving it with the hand crank tonight and see how things go. I really think the alignment is good and that it's really just a clutch problem. Sounds like I'll be bringing it into the dealership soon :-(.

[Witch Doctor]

Originally Posted by cobrageek

OK, I called Lippert and they said that the clutch is not adjustable and that I needed to take it into a dealer for any work. They said it could be an alignment issue that is causing the clutch to slip all the time and that the dealer would work with them on any warrantees or problems.

I'm going to try moving it with the hand crank tonight and see how things go. I really think the alignment is good and that it's really just a clutch problem. Sounds like I'll be bringing it into the dealership soon :-(.

Well I'm glad that they will work with your dealer and get it done, the hassle is you have to take it in. Well good luck and safe travels.......

[bakken]

I always thought that "ratcheting" sound the slide motor makes was indeed the gears slipping (and chewing each other up).
From what I understood, one has to be careful when moving the slides to not let it "ratchet" too much when the slide reaches fully open/closed.
Is that incorrect?

[Witch Doctor]

Originally Posted by bakken

I always thought that "ratcheting" sound the slide motor makes was indeed the gears slipping (and chewing each other up).
From what I understood, one has to be careful when moving the slides to not let it "ratchet" too much when the slide reaches fully open/closed.
Is that incorrect?

bakken, you are correct as soon as you hear that it is in all the way in and let off the switch, or you will wear it out.....

[bakken]

Originally Posted by gljurczyk

bakken, you are correct as soon as you hear that it is in all the way in and let off the switch, or you will wear it out.....

Thanks for the confirmation. My garage door opener made a similar sound, just before it chewed itself to shreds!

[cobrageek]

I think there are different types. Some don't have clutches in which case any clicking noise is bad. But I believe this one has a built in clutch which means that it doesn't "stop" when the slider gets to the end of the run. Instead the clutch clicks a couple of times before you can let go of the button.

Even with a clutch I know you don't want to grind the clutch away, but there is no way to get the slider to the end without a few clicks of the clutch. Even the technician at the dealership clicked the clutch a few times on this one when he was showing us how to use the slider. So either it has a clutch or the mechanism was in a sad state when we picked it up a couple months ago :-).

[cobrageek]

Well, I extended the bed out and then tried to use the manual override to crank it in or out a little more. It's REALLY hard to move. It seems like something must be wrong or they never really intended the manual to work. I can almost make it move in, but I'm putting so much torque on the system it looks like I'm going to rip the motor out of the wall (where it is just screwed in with a couple of screws - not very secure). It really seems like something must be wrong, but it seems fully aligned. Maybe the mechanism is allowing it to sag too much which means when it's coming in it's not just sliding the heavy room but pulling it up hill as well.

There are only two places within an hour drive of my house that do RV repair and one place have had issues with previously. I called the place I wanted to take it but they are booked out for weeks and I have a couple of other trips planned still. So I think I'll have to wait until after the camping season to leave it with them for extended periods.

I guess I'll just have a head rush and keep pushing on the slider to get it working for a while.

[Witch Doctor]

If you can see a bar with teeth in it, try and lub that with can of white greese spray type and also spray the wheel gears that it go's through try that.

[cobrageek]

This setup has two U-shaped bars which support each side of the bed. Each bar has 2 paris of metal wheels which are located in the cabinet at the foot of the bed spaced so the bars are forced to stay mostly horizontal. There is a little play in these because the bed extends 5' or so but the wheel pairs or only 6-8" appart, so the end of the bed probably drops 3-4" or so unless the mechanism is fully extended so that the upper frame of the bed pushes against the frame in the trailer enough to force it to be more "level".

In the middle of each of these "U" shaped tracks there is a toothed piece that is moved by a gear located between the wheel pairs and joined with a long shaft back to the middle of the cabinet where there is a motor and gear box. (one of the links I put in above has a great diagram of this)

I've considered adding lube to this whole assembly, but it really didn't seem like it would make much difference. Metal rollowing wheels against the metal "U" shaped bars shouldn't add much in the way of friction. The gear connection shouldn't have much friction either. The instruction manual specifically states to not add lubrication and I assume that is because dirt and crud will stick to the lube and wear things out faster. It's currently very clean and I can't see why it would be so difficult to move other than fighting gravity as it is pulling this heavy room up hill. Maybe the wheel's are too loose and let the whole thing flop too much?

I guess I could try adding some lube and then try to clean it off if it doesn't help. Anyone else experienced with these rear sliding bed mechanism?

[VinceU]

Originally Posted by cobrageek

This setup has two U-shaped bars which support each side of the bed. Each bar has 2 paris of metal wheels which are located in the cabinet at the foot of the bed spaced so the bars are forced to stay mostly horizontal. There is a little play in these because the bed extends 5' or so but the wheel pairs or only 6-8" appart, so the end of the bed probably drops 3-4" or so unless the mechanism is fully extended so that the upper frame of the bed pushes against the frame in the trailer enough to force it to be more "level".

In the middle of each of these "U" shaped tracks there is a toothed piece that is moved by a gear located between the wheel pairs and joined with a long shaft back to the middle of the cabinet where there is a motor and gear box. (one of the links I put in above has a great diagram of this)

I've considered adding lube to this whole assembly, but it really didn't seem like it would make much difference. Metal rollowing wheels against the metal "U" shaped bars shouldn't add much in the way of friction. The gear connection shouldn't have much friction either. The instruction manual specifically states to not add lubrication and I assume that is because dirt and crud will stick to the lube and wear things out faster. It's currently very clean and I can't see why it would be so difficult to move other than fighting gravity as it is pulling this heavy room up hill. Maybe the wheel's are too loose and let the whole thing flop too much?

I guess I could try adding some lube and then try to clean it off if it doesn't help. Anyone else experienced with these rear sliding bed mechanism?

Absolutely you should not use a grease, but you can used a "dry-lube such as Moly plate or graphite based spray applied. Gears have tremendous friction when dry and so do steel wheels against a tract. In high power apps they would "cook" in seconds without lube. Lippert doesn't want sticky persistant lubes to attract dirt as you mentioned. Even paraffin (candle wax) will go on thin and is a very good lube.

[Witch Doctor]

Originally Posted by VinceU

Absolutely you should not use a grease, but you can used a "dry-lube such as Moly plate or graphite based spray applied. Gears have tremendous friction when dry and so do steel wheels against a tract. In high power apps they would "cook" in seconds without lube. Lippert doesn't want sticky persistant lubes to attract dirt as you mentioned. Even paraffin (candle wax) will go on thin and is a very good lube.

Mine required that I put a non sticking lub like lithium base it will not attract dirt, it has to have a lube, or graphite base will work, but I know I was told by my dealer to use lithium base on the sprocket and roller area. After I did that it quit skipping gears I spayed the hell out of it anything that moved and never had a problem again..

[cobrageek]

Fascinating. That may be exactly what I need then. Maybe that will solve my problem without a trip to the dealer. Is this what you had in mind:

Amazon.com: Permatex 81981 White Lithium Grease, 10.75 oz. Aerosol Can: Automotive

Are you sure it won't collect dirt and crud? Seems like an easy option if you guys say this is the right stuff. Thanks!

[Witch Doctor]

Originally Posted by cobrageek

Fascinating. That may be exactly what I need then. Maybe that will solve my problem without a trip to the dealer. Is this what you had in mind:

Amazon.com: Permatex 81981 White Lithium Grease, 10.75 oz. Aerosol Can: Automotive

Are you sure it won't collect dirt and crud? Seems like an easy option if you guys say this is the right stuff. Thanks!

Yes That is the stuff it WILL NOT attract dirt, also you can get it at any auto parts store, I wouldn't buy from Amazon .com I been using it for years and it is recommended for all parts.(Napa has it or any other auto parts store) I would try it first. .......And do not be afraid to really put it on, then run in and out and do it again then at least once a year......... Also buy a tube of the paste to apply to your hitch, makes things a lot easier to hook up and unhook. I promise it will not attract dirt and grim. My door handle was all most impossible to open and close I sprayed that inside my locks and door handles and it's like butter now. It can not hurt to try first.

[cobrageek]

Did you mean "will NOT attract dirt"?
Why wouldn't you buy it from Amazon? I find that they usually get it directly to my door before I have a chance to get to a store.