Slide Out Roller Plates

[tfmdgm]

Has anyone got Forest River to send them plates to go under the slide out rollers lately? I've search the topic and found that Forest River sent several people these plates, but all were about 2 years ago. I talked to the tech dept this morning and they said they didn't have the plates. I really need some under my slides. It's out of warranty, but Forrest River has provided the plates if the owner would pay for the installation. I'm having trouble finding someone to sell me metal like this locally.

[outpost22]

Originally Posted by tfmdgm

Has anyone got Forest River to send them plates to go under the slide out rollers lately? I've search the topic and found that Forest River sent several people these plates, but all were about 2 years ago. I talked to the tech dept this morning and they said they didn't have the plates. I really need some under my slides. It's out of warranty, but Forrest River has provided the plates if the owner would pay for the installation. I'm having trouble finding someone to sell me metal like this locally.

I also am looking to do this mod and would like to see what the factory skids/plates look like. Can someone post a picture? Mine is a 2016, the year before they added the "runners".

It seems that one could buy a roll of 4" wide 12 gauge galvanized flashing and cut strips to length. Then, add adhesive to the back side to secure in place?

[tfmdgm]

The plates I've seen is 8" wide (4"roller w/2" on each side) and the length is from the outside of the slide to a couple of inches past the rollers and 1/8" thick. Most are aluminum. I can't find a supplier with material that thickness that will supply a small quantity like I need. A couple says they can do it, but never call back with a price. I'm working with Forest River to try to get them to pay for the material.

[outpost22]

Originally Posted by tfmdgm

The plates I've seen is 8" wide (4"roller w/2" on each side) and the length is from the outside of the slide to a couple of inches past the rollers and 1/8" thick. Most are aluminum. I can't find a supplier with material that thickness that will supply a small quantity like I need. A couple says they can do it, but never call back with a price. I'm working with Forest River to try to get them to pay for the material.

Now that I know what they are, have you tried a metal supply business? I would think you could find 1/8" x 8" aluminum flat bar. Most places have a metal break and could cut to length, or just use a band saw to do it. Then add double sided tape to the aluminum?


I would still think galvanized flashing may be an option. 8" is quite common.


I will also check my local metal dealer for it. Thanks.

[OldCoot]

We've been using these for 6 yrs with no problems. They are plastic.
https://www.etrailer.com/RV-Living-R...oaAmIREALw_wcB

[trozfast]

What are these roller plates everyone is talking about? Are they to protect the floor or the underside of the slide?

[Tiggerdad]

Originally Posted by outpost22

It seems that one could buy a roll of 4" wide 12 gauge galvanized flashing and cut strips to length. Then, add adhesive to the back side to secure in place?

Home Depot has aluminum sheets. I bought a sheet and used 3M heavy duty double sided tape. IIRC, sheets are about .080" thick. It can be cut with a straight edge and razor knife. Several scores and bend back and forth. I measured with the slides open from the edge of the trim to beyond the roller. about 2" wider than the roller. Lifted the slide and slid it in. Used a board and vertical board to hold pressure on the tape until it set. I then used S.S. trim washers and short screws to go around the perimeter. Sorry no pictures.

If you have a Swintek slide I recommend cutting wide enough to reach the edge of the Swintek edge and then caulk with Dicor or Proflex. Aluminum tape used on AC ducts would work to seal the edge between the part where it goes under the slide to the new aluminum.

[outpost22]

Originally Posted by trozfast

What are these roller plates everyone is talking about? Are they to protect the floor or the underside of the slide?

The plates are to enable the slide/slide rollers to contact a metal surface rather than the rollers just riding on the base of the slide (fiberglass veneer over plywood in my case). Several people have reported "divoting" where the rollers contact the area. I can see uneven wear in mine, even though its only 2 years old. Roller failure is also mentioned due to the roller "indented" into the slide base. When the slide is extended, the roller screws are ripped out due to this extra friction. My understanding is that in 2017 the manufacturer (FR) added these runners, probably due to the failures reported from the original design (conjecture on my part).

I beleive in preventative maintenance. This sounds like it is probably worthwhile to do and seems fairly straight forward.

[tfmdgm]

This is what mine is doing. 3 of the 5 rollers are like this. The picture is side ways.

[model71]

I used galvanized. Did that after the 1st year. Solved the problem that was developing.
Cheap easy fix.
Glued on. 2 years later its perfect.

[tfmdgm]

Originally Posted by model71

I used galvanized. Did that after the 1st year. Solved the problem that was developing.
Cheap easy fix.
Glued on. 2 years later its perfect.

Model71...What was the thickness of the metal did you used?

[model71]

Hi , sorry for the delay. The galvanized sheetmetal is a sixteenth of an inch. Hoped I could find the gauge but no luck .


It's been a good fix.

[OldCoot]

Originally Posted by model71

Hi , sorry for the delay. The galvanized sheetmetal is a sixteenth of an inch. Hoped I could find the gauge but no luck .


It's been a good fix.

I think that would be classified as 16 ga. (0.0635) in galvanized and (0.0598) in plain steel.

1/16th = 0.0625"

[tfmdgm]

I ordered a 36" x 36" sheet of 1/8" aluminum from Amazon. Cost including tax was $65. Free shipping with Amazon Prime membership. I cut it up in 5, 7" strips, drilled and countersunk holes. Works great.

[tfmdgm]

Here's a picture of the plate I put under my rollers. (I don't know how to get the picture orientation right)

[Tiggerdad]

Originally Posted by tfmdgm

Here's a picture of the plate I put under my rollers. (I don't know how to get the picture orientation right)

That is what mine look like although only the bedroom slide was damaging the bottom of the slide I used thin aluminum from Home Depot. scored several times and then bent back and forth until it broke off. The metal I bought from Home Depot was not from the roofing area. My store has a bin holding different types and sizes at the end of an aisle. I also used 3M industrial double sided tape.

[Sandbagger]

The picture shows wear underneath our kitchen slide. The dinette slide is beginning to show a little wear. The unit is out of warranty and I took it to a local dealer for an estimate to repair. The dealer assessed the issue and said the "wear bars" needed to be replaced which involved removing the slides at a cost of $4,800. Wowza! I've seen the other posts showing aluminum strips under the slides and am thinking of trying that solution first. Thoughts?

[tfmdgm]

See my pictures from post #15. I ordered 36" x 36" x 1/8" thick aluminum from Amazon. I used a circular saw with a 60 tooth carbide tipped blade to cut it. I cut it in 5 somewhat equal strips. Drilled for screws. Jacked up the slide just enough to get the plates under the rollers. Screwed it down. Works better than new.

[GrumpyBiker]

FYI- TALIN RV makes & sells roller plates as well as the plates for the ends for both raised floors (RF1200, RF600 & RF300) and for flush floored model RVs (FF1200 etc..)

Here was my issue on a 2012 Georgetown
The rollers were fine but the floor began to sag due to minor rot in the corner
TALIN RV developed these to deal with this type of issue. (Of course you have to stop the water intrusion first )
There kits come with the correct adhesives & caulk as well as the rivets needed. They also offer & I recommend, the large rivet gun & other tools if you either don't have them.





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