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Old 05-20-2016, 05:16 PM   #1
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Slideout non functional

Just returned from Indiana picking up my TT - long story for another day. I am home doing my outfitting and have run slide out apx 5 times only half way out due to trees in the way. I ran awning 2-3 times In & out. I pruned the tree and ran slide out all the way out. Closed it and as it was at its full in and started lift portion it stopped. Tried out again and in - nothing. thought maybe battery, but full charge and no change. Everything else appears OK, but the slide out is inop. Dealer went home for the weekend and they said we can talk Monday morning.

Does anyone have any ideas on what may be happening?
What should I check / do ?
Try Manual crank?
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Old 05-20-2016, 05:21 PM   #2
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Most likely fuse or resettable breaker. Follow the power line down from the battery and look for little boxes with reset buttons or fuse holders.
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Old 05-20-2016, 06:59 PM   #3
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Not Fuse

I checked 15amp fuse to Slide Out on Master 120Vac CB & 12Vdc Fuse Panel and it is OK. I suspect switch or motor. I was going to bypass the switch to check, but I am unfamiliar with this switch type. The In/Out switch has 2 white wires, 1 Red, & 1 Black with White stripe. There are some metal cross connects on the back of the switch too.

I was thinking switch because the switch for the a frame light needs to be played with to work.

Is there a separate CB or fuse somewhere else?
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Old 05-20-2016, 07:12 PM   #4
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should be a cb in front belly area or near battery for slides- seen it many times
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Old 05-20-2016, 10:00 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 25FKS View Post
I suspect switch or motor. I was going to bypass the switch to check, but I am unfamiliar with this switch type. The In/Out switch has 2 white wires, 1 Red, & 1 Black with White stripe. There are some metal cross connects on the back of the switch too.
Double pole / double throw momentary switch. Red is hot, black is ground, whites go to each side of the motor, doesn't matter which side. The crossovers switch polarity on the motor. In one position, hot is connected to one side and ground the other. In the other position, the switch swaps hot and ground to the motor.
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Old 05-21-2016, 05:46 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by raspivey View Post
Double pole / double throw momentary switch. Red is hot, black is ground, whites go to each side of the motor, doesn't matter which side. The crossovers switch polarity on the motor. In one position, hot is connected to one side and ground the other. In the other position, the switch swaps hot and ground to the motor.
In order to check (bypass switch), do I need to connect the red to one of the whites or is there another connection required too? How does the ground (black) fit in the wiring?
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Old 05-21-2016, 07:24 AM   #7
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Problem probably Solved

Thanks to all for assistance! It made me dig deeper. I did discover a 30amp fuse on the A frame - It was blown. I have yet to R&R and check slide, but I am confident that the problem will be solved - update after replaced. My guess is that the slide will draw higher amperage as the battery voltage drops leading to fuse failure. I have plans in process to eliminate this situation - stay tuned for that.

If FR would provide owners with a wiring diagram for their units, many of these types of problems could be solved by owners without support calls to dealers or factory for ANY assistance.


Update:
That was the solution - Gosh forbid the dealer spending a few minutes on a Friday afternoon near closing telling a brand new delivered customer about that fuse - forget about mentioning it on the walkthrough of features or PDI.
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Old 05-21-2016, 08:35 AM   #8
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Dealer got your money, now get in line with the rest of us. You will find that doing and fixing it yourself is a lot more satisfying and better quality than you will get from dealer or factory.
My experience, your results may vary. Congrats on new unit.
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Old 05-21-2016, 10:36 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by 25FKS View Post
In order to check (bypass switch), do I need to connect the red to one of the whites or is there another connection required too? How does the ground (black) fit in the wiring?
Glad you got it fixed. To answer your question for future reference, red to one white, black to the other. That'll spin the motor in one direction. Switch the white wires to run it in the other direction. FYI, the electric tongue jacks and stabilizers work the same way.
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Old 05-21-2016, 11:46 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by raspivey View Post
Glad you got it fixed. To answer your question for future reference, red to one white, black to the other. That'll spin the motor in one direction. Switch the white wires to run it in the other direction. FYI, the electric tongue jacks and stabilizers work the same way.
Thanks for explaining - much more complicated than it needs to be or I am used to.
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Old 05-21-2016, 11:48 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by Ida Ratherbe Camping View Post
Dealer got your money, now get in line with the rest of us. You will find that doing and fixing it yourself is a lot more satisfying and better quality than you will get from dealer or factory.
My experience, your results may vary. Congrats on new unit.
I am very capable, but having documentation (electrical diagrams) is critical to easier problem solving. Aside from getting parts under warranty (should that ever be necessary), I plan on doing everything myself.
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Old 05-22-2016, 05:11 AM   #12
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Great attitude

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ida Ratherbe Camping View Post
Dealer got your money, now get in line with the rest of us. You will find that doing and fixing it yourself is a lot more satisfying and better quality than you will get from dealer or factory.
My experience, your results may vary. Congrats on new unit.
And this folks, is why the manufacturers keep pushing poorly designed, engineered and assembled motorhomes and travel trailers - the expectation that consumers will just put up with it and fix it themselves.

There is nothing satisfying about spending a boatload of your hard earned money on a POS that breaks down as you travel and you cannot get a dealer to fix it (especially under warranty) - because "you did not buy it from them". I bought a Toad partly because I will probably need it to go get parts for the MH while traveling.

I'd rather be camping too, but there is so much to fix on my MH, I spend way too much time fixing it - which leaves a lot less time to enjoy it. It's too bad - the traveling is fun, but the constant worry of "what's going to break now" takes much of the fun away.
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Old 05-22-2016, 05:23 AM   #13
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These work nice, make sure it is the long blade one, parts stores usually stock them. It's a curcuit breaker so you don't have to keep crawling around under the rig to change fuses, just wait a little bit and it resets.
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Old 05-22-2016, 06:02 AM   #14
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These work nice, make sure it is the long blade one, parts stores usually stock them. It's a curcuit breaker so you don't have to keep crawling around under the rig to change fuses, just wait a little bit and it resets.
Is there a "NAPA" part # for this item? Auto part stores look at you like you have 2 Heads when asking for this part! Youroo!!
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Old 05-22-2016, 09:24 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by youroo View Post
Auto part stores look at you like you have 2 Heads when asking for this part! Youroo!!
That doesn't take much...had to find an exhaust flange gasket for an aftermarket exhaust system. Couldn't fathom that what was in their book for that year and model wouldn't work.
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