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Old 02-24-2016, 03:47 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by Mr Havercamp View Post
The top is always slanted.
Maybe true for the model you are talking about but my schwintek slide rails
are parallel to each other AND to the top.
For this reason I usually set up with my trailer having a very slight lean so the
slide is down hill. We've found we get a little bit of water inside if it's perfectly level and none if I let it lean just a little. The bubble on my level is still between the lines but it's touching the line on the slide side.

YMMV!
Happy Trails!
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Old 02-24-2016, 03:51 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by Mr Havercamp View Post
Well you talked me into it. Actually I have been wrestling with it for a few weeks. I just fired an email to the dealer and said I am not accepting ( or excepting) that particular unit.

They can either order me another or refund my deposit and we'll call it over.

Its in his court now.
I know you ordered to get exactly what you wanted, which has got to make it all the more frustrating. But, could you live with most of what you want?
Now is when the dealers (at least around here) are starting to get in their Spring inventory.
We searched all over. Nice that many dealers are now publishing multi photos. The floor would not be DW's first choice, but it works OK. No power jack, but adding for free sealed the deal. We had a choice of 3 of our model sitting on their lot.
We visited/inspected/bonded with the RV in 3 visits, all with it being held on a $100 refundable deposit.
Whatever you do, best wishes.
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Old 02-24-2016, 09:12 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KyDan View Post
Maybe true for the model you are talking about buy my schwintek slide rails
are parallel to each other AND to the top.
For this reason I usually set up with my trailer having a very slight lean so the
slide is down hill. We've found we get a little bit of water inside if it's perfectly level and none if I let it lean just a little. The bubble on my level is still between the lines but it's touching the line on the slide side.

YMMV!
Happy Trails!

KyDan, your slide rails, or racks as LCI calls them, should be parallel. Although I have been known to be critical of LCI as I have had numerous issues with some of their stuff in the last few years, one thing I am not critical of is their responsiveness to emails and phone calls.

I discussed this with an LCI tech and received a very good 10 minute education in Schwintek 101. I am now of the opinion that that many of numerous issues that you can find reported here and in other places regarding the Schwintek system are installation related. In the pic in my first post, it is easy to tell the upper rack is not parallel with the lower rack. The racks are supposed to be parallel, and they are also supposed to be at a true, or relatively close to a true, 90 degree angle with the H bars (side wall). The H bars are the vertical channel that encloses the vertical drive shaft and is what attaches everything to the side wall. The tolerances here are fairly critical, +/- 1/8". I stopped at a local dealer here this afternoon and just by walking around quickly by eye I would bet that a good 75% of the Schwintek racks I looked at were out of tolerance. Its an industry wide thing as a lot of those units were not Forest River brands. I didn't carry a rafter square but I have been a carpenter for about 35 years and still have a good eye for square. The top slope or lack of it in the slide box itself is immaterial. That's created by the construction/builder of the box. If they can not install the drive system correctly which appears to be super easy, they probably build the boxes out of spec also. The width of the box in relation to the opening and H bars is also fairly critical. The slope at the top does not matter unless the box is built too high overall. Every slide I have ever owned had a slope to the outside in the box itself when extended. The way it was explained to me if its out of tolerance and parallel its just a matter of time until the issues start. The more its out of spec the less time it will take before it happens.

Quote:
Originally Posted by CNYCamper View Post
I know you ordered to get exactly what you wanted, which has got to make it all the more frustrating. But, could you live with most of what you want?
Now is when the dealers (at least around here) are starting to get in their Spring inventory.
We searched all over. Nice that many dealers are now publishing multi photos. The floor would not be DW's first choice, but it works OK. No power jack, but adding for free sealed the deal. We had a choice of 3 of our model sitting on their lot.
We visited/inspected/bonded with the RV in 3 visits, all with it being held on a $100 refundable deposit.
Whatever you do, best wishes.
Thanks CNY, I did not want to special order and that decision was not because we wanted any specific options. When we first seen the Rockwood 23WS Hybrid last fall online, there were not any anywhere remotely close to us, and to this day I know of none anywhere near western PA sitting on a dealers lot, other than the one I ordered. In early October of last year I went and looked at two Shamrock 23WS at dealer in eastern PA. They were returned from the Hershey show and I almost bought one of those. The only reason I didn't was the one we had interior access to at the time had some damage from the traffic at the show, and that turned me off. Interestingly and not surprisingly that exact 23WS is still unsold I believe. The other had a couple of blemishes in the fiberglass of the kind I don't believe get fixed easily or permanently. If you look close its hard to find fiberglass laminted walls without a blemish but they are out there. Anyhow afterwards I called the Roo dealer in this part of the state to see if he had any being delivered, and he shot me a number to order one. Although it was about a grand higher than the one in Eastern PA I decided to proceed. It was not about money or options. In hindsight that was my mistake. I have said for many years I would never special order one of these. I always bought by selecting off the lot before and am very aware of difference in build quality from unit to unit. It will never happen again.

I sent my email last night informing I would not be accepting the unit and just received a text that the dealership GM will be calling me tomorrow to discuss what I requested, which was get a new unit made or we just cancel the deal. At least the dealer returns calls and emails, I like them. I think I may leave my options open if they get Rockwood to offer to return the one I already have here to the factory and do the repairs. LAst time it was Rockwood who indicated that was not an option. Time will tell where it go's. I may be driving on a weekend tour soon to look at 23WS units somewhere.
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Old 02-25-2016, 08:54 AM   #34
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That install borders on insanity. How on earth did anyone think that would work when the rails are out of wack , especially that much. I am amazed they even got the slide to go in to get it out of the factory
Quality of construct is sadly lacking in this field, especially when one has a big investment like that. These units are not like buying a cheap pair of socks. Friend of mine had a triple E motor home $150,000 and the I entrance door would not go closed flush with the unit. Don't think he was ever able get it repaired. Evidently when the coach come out of the fiberglass mould it was miss alighned for the door.


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Old 02-25-2016, 09:09 AM   #35
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I was assured by the Roo dealer that even though Roos and Shamrocks are produced on the same floor by the same employees that everyone in the factory knows that Roos are the real good ones and bring their A game to Roo builds.
They apparently sleepwalk their way through Shamrock construction.
I can only conclude they are trying to foist on you a Shamrock in disguise.
I don't buy that for a minute.......urban legend.
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Old 02-25-2016, 09:16 AM   #36
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I would never buy another with anything from LCI
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Old 02-25-2016, 09:28 AM   #37
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I would never buy another with anything from LCI

Its going to be tough to find one then, so you may not be buying another. There may not be anything out there that does not have something from LCI.
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Old 02-25-2016, 09:35 AM   #38
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If they try to fix the metal track now, you will have extra holes in the side of your slide. Which may leak over time. I would walk away from this unit while you still can.
We had Scwintek slides in our last Motorhome. 5 slide failures in 18 months! It really takes all the fun out of RVing!
Luckily our 38A only has 1 Scwintek slide, and we went over it with a fine tooth comb before we took delivery!
Scwintek can be a good system, BUT it has to be installed properly and level!!
Good Luck
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Old 02-25-2016, 10:15 AM   #39
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well maybe I should have said schwintek, since day one when they destroyed ours at the dealer because they didn't level it, and with the slide being a full length slide, they don't seem to work well on such a big slide, and not sure because the controller is in the compartment below if it is moister proof or not because mine failed at just over a year of me owning it,,,

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Originally Posted by Mr Havercamp View Post
Its going to be tough to find one then, so you may not be buying another. There may not be anything out there that does not have something from LCI.
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Old 02-25-2016, 10:31 AM   #40
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I agree with others- walk away. I would not want that unit even after
"factory" repairs. If they did that to the slide what else is hiding just around
the corner.

FYI My schwintek slide failed to extend on day 1 of a 3 week FL vacation We called the factory and were offered sympathy but no help except try calling a local dealer. Local dealer said he was 2 weeks out on appointments, he did NOT make field calls and even if I brought it in he had no parts in stock and would have to get factory approval and parts sent to him.
A week into the vacation using the rig with the main cabin slide stuck in a buddy here on FRF sent me a youtube link showing how to override the board and get my slide out and back in. The 2nd half of the vacation was much nicer!

If you own a schwintek slide you need to know where the board is located--
how to override it AND how to disengage the motors so you can hand push
the slide in if you have a catastrophic failure with it out. Don't count on
emergency help from mobile repair. You need to know how to rescue yourself when your slide fails!!
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