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Old 03-03-2012, 10:08 PM   #1
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18cf electric refer?

Any one out there opted for the 18cf electric refer with the batteries and inverter. Would like some feedback on cost and weight. I know they are a lot more efficient but would like to here more from an actual owner. Thanks, Steve
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Old 03-04-2012, 06:14 PM   #2
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We have Cedar Creek 36RD5S, ordered it with 18 CF Whirlpool Estate, with inverter. Had two problems, one was self inflicted, . I store my small air compressor inside the battery door. That's where the inverter is plugged into, I put the compressor in there after I aired up my Ride-Rite and unplugged it. It worked on 12V (through the inverter, but not AC). After calling the factory and finding out I was the problem, I "quickly" plugged it back in, and low and behold it worked.

The other problem we had, is not really related to the 12V/AC refrigerator, just RV refrigerators and summer heat. I had to install a second ventilation fan and cut a register vent above the cabinet to cold things down. We have been very happy with the 12V/AC combination. You flip a switch when your hooked up to your TV, and switch it back when you are on shore power. Refrigerator stays cold "freezer at 0" ALL the time. We love it!


Hope this helps God bless,
Mike
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Old 03-04-2012, 07:54 PM   #3
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18cf electric refer.

OK. So you have the 120v electric refer and it runs off of the tow vehicle battery thru the inverter? No other battery bank? the one we are looking at has a 12v/gas installed so it already has the upper and lower vents. Would that work for ventilation--with a couple of 120mm computer fans to get the air flowing? Thanks, Steve
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Old 03-05-2012, 07:06 PM   #4
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No, it runs off the 5th wheel batteries (4- 6v from the factory), but yes, when the 5th wheel is plugged into the TV, the TV does charge the battery bank in the unit.
If the old refrigerator, is vented top and bottom (on the inside of the unit), that should work fine. In our's the refrigerator is set in above the gas furnance, and I cut about a 8" square hole below it, then like I said I cut a 4"X8" register vent above the cabinets, out of sight. The fan was just a cheap 12V fan. During the summer, I got up by the upper vent, and you could feel warmer air coming out of the vent, so the small fan does work OK.

Hope this helps God bless,
Mike
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Old 03-17-2012, 11:19 AM   #5
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Batteries

Did your 6 volt batteries come with the unit from the factory or did your dealer install them has an option?
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Old 03-17-2012, 09:34 PM   #6
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It came that way from the factory. It was an option when we ordered it. It came with the batteries, inverter and the larger refrigerator. I did not want to have a gas-A/C unit. We do like the size of both the refrigerator and freezer with ice maker, still has room for meat, etc. and most important, ice cream (half gallon each for our dog, my wife and myself) .

God bless
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Old 03-20-2012, 12:07 PM   #7
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Winterize Ice maker

We just ordered a 2013 Custom Cedar Creek 36CKTS with the 18 cf. fridge and inverter. Now, I need to sell my 2008 37CKQS that is still like new almost.
My question is, when you winterize your unit is there water line you disconnect from the fridge and how do you clear out the water in ice maker?
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Old 03-20-2012, 08:48 PM   #8
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We are fulltime, and do not winterize. But our ice maker connection is under our sink, with a valve. I would say you could close the valve, disconnect the line and drain. Now the ice maker itself, I think I would unplug it and remove it, 2 screws. That way you know the water would not freeze inside the ice maker itself. Just a thought.

Hope this helps
God bless,
Mike
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Old 04-07-2012, 10:52 PM   #9
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18cf electric

Mine came in with the 12/13cf gas /elect. Could not get changes in in time to change to 18cf electric. Question is can one use the 18cf electric w/o inverter etc. have had several people telle you can get 4-6 hrs while traveling with electric refer off with no problem. Any comments on thos . Thanks, Steve
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Old 04-08-2012, 08:21 AM   #10
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Invertor

Yes, you must have an invertor with the 18 cf electric fridge. Invertor provides 110 electric power from your 12 volt system to operate your electric fridge. Most units use 4-6 volts batteries with the invertor and I'm told they get 30 to 40 hours without needing to be charged.
We'll be finding out soon, our new unit has the 18 cf electric fridge and will have 4 - 6 volts deep cycle batteries & invertor.
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Old 04-08-2012, 09:02 AM   #11
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NO! You do NOT have to have an inverter to use an 18cf electric refrigerator.

The inverter is in the front of the 5th wheel, it has both 12V and 120V coming into it, and with the switch on the front of it, you decide which source you want it from. I worked in the power industry for over 4o years, and if you DON'T open your doors a refrigerator or freezer will stay cold up to 36 hours. So, in an RV I would say a few hours would be OK. With your gas/electric you have now, you will have a A/C plug for it to plug into, so you can just plug it into it. The amperage is about the same, so there is no worry there.


Hope this helps God bless!

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Old 11-19-2012, 10:07 PM   #12
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Hoping someone can help. We have the 36RE with the 18cf fridge you speak of as well. We have been having problems with our batteries. (4-6volt). They are not getting fully charged. They are brand new. We do not quite understand the electrical system of the rig: inverter, converter and charger? We also have a wfco 9855 battery charger and it produces 13.6 volts. The switch you refer to on the inverter, when should it be on or off? When should we have the battery disconnect off? Why won't the batteries get fully charged when connected to shore power? Are we missing something or could the inverter or converter or charger be bad?
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Old 11-20-2012, 12:36 AM   #13
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I had the same problem with my batteries and it was because I didn't have the batteries hooked up right. The diagram that is inside the compartment wasn't right.
The inverter being turned off and the battery disconnect should only be done if your going to winterize it, or store the trailer. As far as some of the comments earlier on, I was told at the factory and also by the dealer that the factory does not install the 4 batteries, that the dealer does that. The 18cf electric is hands down the way to go. Ask anyone that's been RV much the gas and electric have been a lot of problems and have even caused a lot of fires. Another great part of the 18cf electric one is the amount of ice it makes.
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Old 11-20-2012, 08:55 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by life2short4nofun
I had the same problem with my batteries and it was because I didn't have the batteries hooked up right. The diagram that is inside the compartment wasn't right.
The inverter being turned off and the battery disconnect should only be done if your going to winterize it, or store the trailer. As far as some of the comments earlier on, I was told at the factory and also by the dealer that the factory does not install the 4 batteries, that the dealer does that. The 18cf electric is hands down the way to go. Ask anyone that's been RV much the gas and electric have been a lot of problems and have even caused a lot of fires. Another great part of the 18cf electric one is the amount of ice it makes.
That's good to know bc we followed the diagram. How do we know how to connect them? Do you have a diagram? We've had the camper since June 2011 and we are on our 2nd set of batteries we have purchased. I want to be sure not to ruin these we just bought.
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Old 11-20-2012, 09:20 AM   #15
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This pic is how we have ours connected
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Old 11-20-2012, 10:11 AM   #16
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Ok to clarify, I have three positive and three negative chassis cables so I put two together and one by itself like the diagram you show, how there is a split. Then what you have to do is add 2 short cables one from the far right batteries negative terminal to the second batteries from the lefts negative terminal. Then another one from the first batteries on the lefts positive terminal to the third battery from the lefts positive terminal. What this does is tie the batteries together.
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Old 11-20-2012, 10:22 AM   #17
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Also I would highly recommend a system like this. Pro-Fill RV | Flow-Rite I picked one up at a rally, they sell them at Camping World to keep my batteries water full and it is awesome and I think I paid $40. The batteries are hard to get to on my rig. All you do is replace the fill caps with the ones they have then cut rubber tubing to tie all four batteries together and then there is a quick connect line you add on also. Then when you want to fill, which I do about every two months you just connect the hand pump to that connection really easy and them you give it a few pump till its firm and then disconnect the pump. Its so simple.
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Old 11-20-2012, 11:08 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by life2short4nofun
Ok to clarify, I have three positive and three negative chassis cables so I put two together and one by itself like the diagram you show, how there is a split. Then what you have to do is add 2 short cables one from the far right batteries negative terminal to the second batteries from the lefts negative terminal. Then another one from the first batteries on the lefts positive terminal to the third battery from the lefts positive terminal. What this does is tie the batteries together.
Thanks for info, let me be sure I understand: We leave the way we have it wired currently (like diagram) but ADD the additional 2 short cables you address? We already have the water fill system you suggest. It is sper easy to use. Yay!
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Old 11-20-2012, 11:37 AM   #19
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Correct,
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Old 11-24-2012, 03:23 PM   #20
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On our way back home today, we stopped to find our fridge had come open. The screw lock knob had pulled right out. We had a lovely mess to clean up. This has happened to us twice. The first time, we questioned if we had screwed it in tight enough, but today I had it so tight I was worried I would scratch the fridge. Anyone else experience this problem with this fridge and have any solutions on how to avoid? For now we have screwed it back in and taped the doors to make it the remainder of the trip home. But need a permanent solution. Thinking about adding a plastic washer on the device to hold both doors.
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