2005 31RBH AC addition

scott_silverside · 07-09-2015, 01:51 PM

I own a 2005 Cedar Creek 31BH and it is a 30 amp trailer. I live in the south and its hot hot hot. I would love to add another ac to the skylight in the bedroom but am told it is not wired or framed for an extra ac. My question is "Has anyone here ever added on to the skylight and what kind of bracing do I need to look at. I can handle the power issue but need to know if it is possible and how to brace the roof for the ac. I was pointed to a Dominic 13,500 low profile for my unit. He also said I could upgrade my 13,500 unit to a 15,000 if it would work with a 30 amp power supply. Any help would be appreciated.

dieselguy · 07-09-2015, 02:16 PM

Many of us have simply removed the existing skylight, cleaned the sealer off, and mounted the second A/C per enclosed instructions in the same hole as it sits but ... most all were on RV's prewired with a 50 amp service. Unless you just lay the power wire on top of the roof ... you'll be hard pressed to ever get it fed thru the ceiling. I'm curious on how you are going to "handle" the power issue? Your 30 amp fuse/breaker panel has no lug for a second feed wire that comes with 50 amp service. Trying to run an A/C on a 15 amp extension cord plugged in to the 15 amp plug aside the main receptacle on a power post just hurts me to type it out here ... You're easily looking at @26 -28 amps just running two 13,500 A/C's with absolutely noting else drawing power.

B and B · 07-09-2015, 02:18 PM

Hello Scott,

The electrical part is easy. With a 13.5 KbTU unit a 20 amp separate cord would work, just a second power plug on the outside of the unit wired directly.

When say sklylight do mean the Roof Vent that opens? There would be framing around this. Maybe take the inside shroud off and see what is there. If aluminum is present I would not hesitate, if just wood maybe some beefing up would be in order. Would have to drop the ceiling panel to see what is there.

scott_silverside · 07-09-2015, 02:40 PM

I contacted FR with my vin number and he said it was not applicable with my camper. I have looked for the wiring before and not there is none. yes it is the Roof Vent, but its never open

I am a welder by trade so to make a frame would be nothing but not sure if it needs to tie in to the roof rafters ( I guess that is what the ceiling members is called on a TT) or just a angle iron frame or something of that nature.

dieselguy · 07-09-2015, 03:37 PM

Factory bracing is nothing more than 1X4's or 1X6's boxed inside the vent opening. The vent is usually right next the roof rafters. I've never seen metal framing exclusively for an A/C ... just a wood box between the roof itself and the ceiling inside.

scott_silverside · 07-09-2015, 03:41 PM

I could probably handle a job like that.... I plan on dropping a 110 plug on the outside to get the power to it. I would love to run through the ceiling but not sure what that would pertake of. Thanks for the info.

Witch Doctor · 07-09-2015, 03:57 PM

I don't see any problem with what you want to do. The A/C opening calls for a 14x14" drop same as your vent. The vent is already braced. A domectic A/C weight is about 125#'s or less as B&B wrote the problem would be running the electrical to the outside. Once it's outside you just plug it in the the 20 amp circuit on the pole. It would have to be a bottom drop. Is it possible to run a cord over your ceiling yes even if you used pre boxed conduit from lowes 3 sided. Then down the inside wall and out, You could probably use #12 gage wire romex with a ground. Go down into the basement and drill a whole to install your plug end. !3,500 Btu would only pull about 13 amps. But it would freeze you out. That vent is framed in and would hold that weight easy IMO. My Fat you know what walks right next to my vents with NO give at all and I weight 225#. I ran that same inside conduit inside my house in the corner and painted it the same color of my wall and you can't see it or tell it's there unless your 3' from it.

scott_silverside · 07-09-2015, 05:05 PM

I thought the same thing, I've been on my top many times and stepped all around the vent and I go a solid 220

but they are the manufacturers soooo I just wanted some advice from someone who may have attempted this adventure. I was thinking about using the #12 gage wire for my service just got to figure out how to pull it down to the storage underneath the front. I am thinking that a stiff wire like used to free sewage lines would work and make the bends and be able to force it through what insulation that is there. It is going to be a chore but like I said it is HOT here in the summer and I like to stay COOL while I take my mid-day nap.

Witch Doctor · 07-09-2015, 05:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by scott_silverside

I thought the same thing, I've been on my top many times and stepped all around the vent and I go a solid 220

but they are the manufacturers soooo I just wanted some advice from someone who may have attempted this adventure. I was thinking about using the #12 gage wire for my service just got to figure out how to pull it down to the storage underneath the front. I am thinking that a stiff wire like used to free sewage lines would work and make the bends and be able to force it through what insulation that is there. It is going to be a chore but like I said it is HOT here in the summer and I like to stay COOL while I take my mid-day nap.

That insulation is pretty easy to run a wire puller through it's not that dense I ran wire through it. When you walk on the roof you can almost feel where the rafters are. Good luck, If you can't do it just run it inside like I mentioned...

Cool Canuck · 07-09-2015, 08:22 PM

My last trailer was 30amp. Sufficed most of the time but to run extra heaters, etc. I installed one of these Marinco Receptacles on the left side of the trailer and installed an additional receptacles inside. http://http://www.marinco.com/en/pro.../inlets/15-amp
I would run an extension cord to the 20 amp outlet in the pedestal.
Don't over think the AC install. They pretty much drop in.

Brentf · 07-09-2015, 10:09 PM

I added a second 120v line on my boat, not much different than an RV. Defender.com sells the parts. Blue Sea Systems makes an add on breaker panel which you can put on a surface mount box. put a 15 or 20 amp breaker in for the new circuit. Nothing hard or expensive but will give you an extra margin of safety. You don't want to depend on the breaker in the hook up pedestal, no telling if it is wired or sized right.

Rich5117 · 07-11-2015, 01:38 PM

Agree with Cool Canuck. While your unit is 30 amp you can purchase a 50 amp to two 30 amp or one 30 and one 20 amp Y adapter from Camco, this way you are not using the 20 amp receptacle on the power post which many times is tied to the 30 amp breaker and is a GFIC. Just make sure you install a proper sized breaker in a small breaker box located in the storage area. Worst part is you'll need to use 50 amps At the campground.

This is also done to supply a separate receptacle for a heater in winter much better power supply this way.

Of course this is providing the 50 amp circuit on the post is wired correctly and not a cheater 50 amp circuit.

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