2012 Silverback 35QB4 External Cable/Satellite Outlets

[Sean]

Originally Posted by Bigdog

Sean,

Do you have one receiver in your rv or two? If you have one that is dual output there is a way to do what you want with the exising wiring. I have one receiver that is dual output so I can watch one channel in the living room and something on a different channel in the bedroom.

I have one but I have a spare at home I was going to bring if I could make it work.

It's nice having one in the living area but one in the bedroom would be nice as well for watching some TV before bed.

I simply need to figure out how to get the signal from the dish into the jack in the bedroom.

[Oakman]

Originally Posted by Sean

I have one but I have a spare at home I was going to bring if I could make it work.

It's nice having one in the living area but one in the bedroom would be nice as well for watching some TV before bed.

I simply need to figure out how to get the signal from the dish into the jack in the bedroom.

I’ve thought about this and since I’ve just recently started using satellite I haven’t had a chance to try it yet. My thought would only work if you have two boxes. I wonder if you put a signal splitter at the aux/sat connection and feed one cable to the receiver and feed the other cable to the connection labeled satellite. I would think this would pass the signal from the satellite antenna back to the satellite connection in the bedroom. Like I said, this is just a thought since I don’t have two boxes at the moment and don‘t know if it would really work.

[TURBS]

Originally Posted by Oakman

I’ve thought about this and since I’ve just recently started using satellite I haven’t had a chance to try it yet. My thought would only work if you have two boxes. I wonder if you put a signal splitter at the aux/sat connection and feed one cable to the receiver and feed the other cable to the connection labeled satellite. I would think this would pass the signal from the satellite antenna back to the satellite connection in the bedroom. Like I said, this is just a thought since I don’t have two boxes at the moment and don‘t know if it would really work.

A dual tuner dvr is your best bet and is wired the same way your thinking.
A scs 2a duplexer is required .
The tv near the box uses ir remote the second tv uses uhf

Cable from dvr runs to duplexer
Cable from remote tv runs to duplexer
Cable from duplexer runs to dish
Cable out of dvr runs to main tv

[Sean]

Thanks for all the ideas. I'll have a go at it next time I'm out there.

[Bigdog]

Originally Posted by f1100turbo

A dual tuner dvr is your best bet and is wired the same way your thinking.
A scs 2a duplexer is required .
The tv near the box uses ir remote the second tv uses uhf

Cable from dvr runs to duplexer
Cable from remote tv runs to duplexer
Cable from duplexer runs to dish
Cable out of dvr runs to main tv

You are correct that a dual tuner satellite box is the best way to go and what I used in mine.

The lines marked in red that say Satellite are for the roof mounted Wingard Traveler dish and run to each location in the coach. If you get on your roof you will see a sticker marking the location of the wires in the ceiling. The problem is the wires in the the ceiling are not connected to anything so connecting to them at the wall will do you no good.

Here is what I did. I drilled an 1 1/2 in. hole in the inside ceiling just below the spot that is marked on the outside of the roof to access teh wires. With the hole in place it was easy to grab the wires and pull them inside the coach to connect a normal coax spiltter. I used a 3 way spliter so I could feed both the front bedroom and the bunk room tv with the same signal coming out of the dual tuner receiver for TV 2. If you only have one location such as the bedroom to feed then a normal barrel connector would work and the hole would not need to be quite so big in the ceiling. Once I had made the connections I put a blank (solid) white outlet cover over the hole. We do not notice it on the ceiling at all with all the other stuff up there like lights, vents, speakers etc.

Now you could do this from the outside and not have the hole on the inside ceiling. When on the roof if you slightly push on the roof where the sticker is marking the location for the wires you will notice the hole is the roof is already drilled and it is just the rubber roof material that needs to be cut. You can cut it and access the wires that way and then will need to cover the hole and seal it. While this could be done I did not want any chance for a leak so I did it from the inside.

Once the wires are connected in the ceiling the connections at the box are easy.

From the portable disk connect to the AUX Sat input in the utility bay.
Connect a wire from the AUX Sat input behind the TV to the receiver.
TV 1 from the receiver will go to the main TV. You will likely use and HDMI cable for this connection.
TV 2 from the receiver will go from the receiver to the RED Sat connection and will feed the beedroom jack marked the same way.

Your dual tuner receiver will come with 2 remotes. One will be IR to control the main TV and the other is UHF to be used in the bedroom/bunkroom.

It is really not a bad project at all once you decide to cut a hole in the ceiling. The blank outlet cover at Lowes is about .50 so materials are very cheap.

Mine has been like this for 2 years now with no issues.

Hope this helps.

[Sean]

Originally Posted by Bigdog

You are correct that a dual tuner satellite box is the best way to go and what I used in mine.

The lines marked in red that say Satellite are for the roof mounted Wingard Traveler dish and run to each location in the coach. If you get on your roof you will see a sticker marking the location of the wires in the ceiling. The problem is the wires in the the ceiling are not connected to anything so connecting to them at the wall will do you no good.

Here is what I did. I drilled an 1 1/2 in. hole in the inside ceiling just below the spot that is marked on the outside of the roof to access teh wires. With the hole in place it was easy to grab the wires and pull them inside the coach to connect a normal coax spiltter. I used a 3 way spliter so I could feed both the front bedroom and the bunk room tv with the same signal coming out of the dual tuner receiver for TV 2. If you only have one location such as the bedroom to feed then a normal barrel connector would work and the hole would not need to be quite so big in the ceiling. Once I had made the connections I put a blank (solid) white outlet cover over the hole. We do not notice it on the ceiling at all with all the other stuff up there like lights, vents, speakers etc.

Now you could do this from the outside and not have the hole on the inside ceiling. When on the roof if you slightly push on the roof where the sticker is marking the location for the wires you will notice the hole is the roof is already drilled and it is just the rubber roof material that needs to be cut. You can cut it and access the wires that way and then will need to cover the hole and seal it. While this could be done I did not want any chance for a leak so I did it from the inside.

Once the wires are connected in the ceiling the connections at the box are easy.

From the portable disk connect to the AUX Sat input in the utility bay.
Connect a wire from the AUX Sat input behind the TV to the receiver.
TV 1 from the receiver will go to the main TV. You will likely use and HDMI cable for this connection.
TV 2 from the receiver will go from the receiver to the RED Sat connection and will feed the beedroom jack marked the same way.

Your dual tuner receiver will come with 2 remotes. One will be IR to control the main TV and the other is UHF to be used in the bedroom/bunkroom.

It is really not a bad project at all once you decide to cut a hole in the ceiling. The blank outlet cover at Lowes is about .50 so materials are very cheap.

Mine has been like this for 2 years now with no issues.

Hope this helps.

AWESOME post Bigdog. Thank you very much. I understand exactly what you did there. Part of my problem was not knowing the wiring set up inside the walls / roof. I now get it that the roof satellite has a completely seperate wiring system and I simply will tie that together and tap into it like you say.

[dlturner00]

Originally Posted by Sean

AWESOME post Bigdog. Thank you very much. I understand exactly what you did there. Part of my problem was not knowing the wiring set up inside the walls / roof. I now get it that the roof satellite has a completely seperate wiring system and I simply will tie that together and tap into it like you say.

You can also just feed the coax output from your receiver back into the jack marked TV and it will feed all locations.

[Sean]

Originally Posted by dlturner00

You can also just feed the coax output from your receiver back into the jack marked TV and it will feed all locations.

the part I bolded "into the jack marked TV", do you mean on the receiver? I'm not sure I understand but I want to try it before cutting up my roof.

[dlturner00]

Originally Posted by Sean

the part I bolded "into the jack marked TV", do you mean on the receiver? I'm not sure I understand but I want to try it before cutting up my roof.

I have a dual tuner receiver. I connect TV2 output to the wallplate jack that is marked TV. Then any TV connected to TV connection in another room will receive that signal. If you don't have dual tuner you can split the receiver output with a standard splitter. If you are using HDMI there should also be a standard coax connection that you can use to connect to the TV jack.

[Sean]

Originally Posted by dlturner00

I have a dual tuner receiver. I connect TV2 output to the wallplate jack that is marked TV. Then any TV connected to TV connection in another room will receive that signal. If you don't have dual tuner you can split the receiver output with a standard splitter. If you are using HDMI there should also be a standard coax connection that you can use to connect to the TV jack.

Thanks