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Old 07-26-2015, 07:26 PM   #41
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David rethinking this there is a diagram for two 12 volts together and that should be adequate. I will try to find the 12 volt diagram. This would give you more amps than each 12 volt one for converter which is the leveled up and house battery and one for the ref which will not last long I one 12 volt. It is all about amps for duration.
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Old 07-26-2015, 07:32 PM   #42
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Thanks tt. I'm afraid that my choices are getting fewer. Because if the two systems are connected separately, like mine are now, then the inverter battery does not get re-charged. I'm going to have to tie them together and that cannot be done with 3 six volt batteries. So, it appears that my best option is to purchase a third 12 volt battery of similar capacity, and run them all three in parallel. That way, they all at least get charged.
I wish my battery compartment had enough room for one more battery.
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Old 07-26-2015, 07:48 PM   #43
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My experience is that the dealer is responsible for the batteries. You get what they give you or what you negotiated for, assuming you knew to negotiate. I knew my dealer was giving me only a single 12 volt deep cycle battery even though the 38CK was able to handle 4 6 volt deep cycle batteries. The single battery had enough capability to handle the leveling system and the fridge inverter, just not for very long. In simple terms, you will have a better RV experience with the 4 6 volt batteries set up. While you are at it, make sure EVERY bulb in the unit is LED. Also, connect your batteries so that everything thing is shared, converter, inverter, unit 12 lighting, and the tow vehicle supply.
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Old 07-26-2015, 09:41 PM   #44
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David I found this site to be helpful before I heard back from the factory. There is 2 options and they explain each. I would expect you would hook both positive wires one from the converter and one from the inverter together that way all batteries get charged and the negatives would also be together.

http://www.solarrvpanels.com/index.p...ries-properly/




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Old 07-26-2015, 11:15 PM   #45
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William, you are correct. I should have made sure the dealer had done it correctly, but that's 20-20 hindsight. live and learn. Since the dealer is over 300 miles away, I'll just eat this one myself. My battery compartment only has room for 3 batteries, so I'll stick with two or three 12 volt deep cycle batteries in parallel. There is really no other good option.
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Old 07-26-2015, 11:15 PM   #46
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Tom, thanks for the link. Great information there.
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Old 09-24-2015, 04:32 PM   #47
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One slight change I made in my reconnecting the batteries is instead of both load hots to Battery 1 + and both load black to battery 4 -, I have my inverter hot from battery 1 +, main hot battery 3 + and inverter black from battery2 -, main black battery 4 neg. This way the 1-2 string powers the inverter and the 3-4 string the main, and the straps between only carry half the load from ether load. the way it is drawn, ALL the current goes thru Bat 1 + post and Bat 4 - post.
Also in my earlier comments I was thinking the inverter has a charging circuit in it to recharge it's string like a UPS, but the manufacture says it is only an INverter, the recharge function is from the RV's CONverter
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Old 09-24-2015, 04:42 PM   #48
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Makes no real difference. It all acts as one battery if the pairs are strapped together and that's what you really want. Don't try to over-engineer the thing. It's best if your converter, inverter and main load share/serve one battery power source.
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Old 09-25-2015, 01:04 AM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brycliff View Post
One slight change I made in my reconnecting the batteries is instead of both load hots to Battery 1 + and both load black to battery 4 -, I have my inverter hot from battery 1 +, main hot battery 3 + and inverter black from battery2 -, main black battery 4 neg. This way the 1-2 string powers the inverter and the 3-4 string the main, and the straps between only carry half the load from ether load. the way it is drawn, ALL the current goes thru Bat 1 + post and Bat 4 - post.
Also in my earlier comments I was thinking the inverter has a charging circuit in it to recharge it's string like a UPS, but the manufacture says it is only an INverter, the recharge function is from the RV's CONverter
There is an old saying "If it ain't broke, don't try and fix it"! Having read your posts since this thread started in July it appears you might be confusing the power setup in these RV's with something that is not an RV. I have been going through electrical issues with my 36CKTS for almost 2 yrs. One thing I learned is that is a little complicated, but it can be learned. When you have a residential refrigerator running off an inverter, the RV's electrical system is not laid out like the RV that has an RV type refrigerator. The way that diagram lays out how to hook up the batteries is the way you need to hook it up. Forget about your stings and main battery and whatever. This method of hooking up the batteries was designed to give the "most power for the longest period of time". There was a previous diagram, not to dissimilar to what you are describing, it was not providing the full power of the battery bank. That's why it was changed to the current on. As far as having power for the slides and landing gear that is a none issue. When the batteries get to a low enough level (refer to the owners manual for the inverter) an a alarm will beep and shortly will shut the inverter off, so no more juice to the refer. There will still be enough battery power to operate the landing gear and slide. Also hooking your seven way to the TV will provide more power. The electrical system on these are split between 12V DC and 110 AC. On the DC side there are 2 separate DC circuits one for the lights, water pump, exhaust fans, etc and a separate system to handle the slides and landing gear. It will benefit you greatly to learn how these systems all work. I learned a lot about the electrical setup on these because I like to dry camp or boondock or whatever you want to call it and the power required to run that refrigerator can cause you all kinds of headaches if you don't manage you power correctly and trying to correct electrical problems while camped is no fun. Hook the batteries up the way the diagram shows. Remember if ain't broke don't try and fix it.
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Old 09-26-2015, 10:41 PM   #50
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Thanks! Yes I do tend to reverse engineer, but don't most of us! My whole problem came from the fact that the dealer installed the 4 6V batteries as 2 separate 12V strings and ONLY the inverter was connected to the front string. Of course after a very short time, that string was discharged below the alarm level on the inverter. I was so naive that I though the dealer had installed the batteries correctly and so the inverter must also recharge it's string when shore power was present so it must be bad. The dealer sent out a tech who replaced the inverter and left. My first lesson in RVing. check it out with the component manufacture! The dealers have so many different models and options, they cannot know YOUR unit!
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