2019 Silverback Battery Disconnect Switch

[smittyboy]

I have the 29RE that has a battery disconnect. When you turn it off the slide outs and the 6 point level system and a few others. I have followed the wires from back of switch and it looks like it comes from 12 volt converter to fuse panel. To me this does not seam correct!

[babock]

Originally Posted by smittyboy

When you turn it off the bump outs and the 6 point level system and a few others.

Do not understand what this means.

[5picker]

If you are saying the 'slides, level system and a few others' (incomplete sentence) still work when the battery disconnect is engaged, that is pretty common across R/Vs.

Since those items only draw power when operating them (not considered parasitic draws) the manufacturer does not include those circuits in the disconnect.

It also allows the manufacturer to use a less expensive, less load capable switch since it doesn't have to handle the current draw of higher amperage items such as the slide/level motors.

[CHICKDOE]

be careful saying the leveling system is not a parasitic load. we have the lippert 6 point leveling and slide out system that works off a remote control unit. the control unit / receiver is wired directly to the batteries and it is always on monitoring for a signal from the wireless remote unit. also the little control panel for this system on the side of the trailer is always on waiting for a press of the on/off button to activate the display screen.

[babock]

I need to look at the controller for one of my slides. I swear I have seen the LEDs always lit on it.

[smittyboy]

If what you are saying is true. Then the battery wire for the hydraulic control can go to the battery but the control wire goes to the cut off switch. I thought the whole idea of the battery switch was to cut all 12 volt to the camper so nothing is on when it is turned to off.

[rockfordroo]

Every TT seems to be different. Some people on this forum report their slides still work, others report that they don't. Same for LP/CO detectors (which are definitely parasitic loads). Same for other devices. Generally speaking, stuff like "some" slides, power jacks, and such with their own ON/OFF switches will remain powered up.

But the only way to truly know on a particular rig is to turn it off and see what still works.

[babock]

Originally Posted by smittyboy

If what you are saying is true. Then the battery wire for the hydraulic control can go to the battery but the control wire goes to the cut off switch. I thought the whole idea of the battery switch was to cut all 12 volt to the camper so nothing is on when it is turned to off.

Mine didn't come with a disconnect switch but I made sure when I added one, it did exactly that...turn off everything!


My belief is that they do what's easy and cheap and if it's easier and cheaper to leave something off the disconnect switch, they do just that.


EDIT: Out of curiosity, with the disconnect off and the shore power disconnected, what still works? My guess is that the battery disconnect does indeed disconnect the battery but the converter can still power everything if turned on. Mine will do the same thing. The disconnect is only to disconnect the battery and not converter power.

[cub22908]

Originally Posted by smittyboy

I thought the whole idea of the battery switch was to cut all 12 volt to the camper so nothing is on when it is turned to off.

That is the idea. But the disconnect switch on CC 5ers does not turn everything off as others have stated. I found this out the hard way, I have no idea why they even install a disconnect switch as it is worthless unless it turns EVERYTHING off.

[5picker]

Originally Posted by CHICKDOE

be careful saying the leveling system is not a parasitic load. we have the lippert 6 point leveling and slide out system that works off a remote control unit. the control unit / receiver is wired directly to the batteries and it is always on monitoring for a signal from the wireless remote unit. also the little control panel for this system on the side of the trailer is always on waiting for a press of the on/off button to activate the display screen.

Originally Posted by smittyboy

If what you are saying is true. Then the battery wire for the hydraulic control can go to the battery but the control wire goes to the cut off switch. I thought the whole idea of the battery switch was to cut all 12 volt to the camper so nothing is on when it is turned to off.

You are right CHICKDOE, some of these newer systems with the remotes do have some draw. I'll try to be more careful in the future!

smittyboy, as mentioned, many manufacturers/models do the disconnect differently. Back in the day before multiplexing and touch panels, when all one had were a few basic circuits, disconnecting the battery was much easier.

It's called a battery disconnect but maybe the industry should start calling it a circuit disconnect since it doesn't always completely disconnect the battery.

[CHICKDOE]

i think i found found 5 items on our trailer that do not get disconnected bhy the disconnect switch. they are:
co detector
propane detector
lippert control unit (controls legs, slides, awning, and porch light via remote control unit)
stereo
break away switch (this one is ok unless the cable gets pulled inadvertently)

i think of the factory installed battery disconnect switch exactly as it is named. it disconnects the battery from the converter. on our trailer the 12 volt fuse panel is in the rear, the converter and disconnect switch in the middle, and the batteries up front. the disconnect switch simply interrupts the 12 volt cables from the converter to the batteries. all of the stuff wired directly to the batteries have their own inline fuses up by the battery and not in the fuse panel.

my problem was the batteries would discharge in a week or so while in storage even when disconnected. i installed my own disconnect switch to disconnect everything and now i can store the trailer for many weeks with no noticeable discharge on the batteries.

and with more and more touch pad type systems in the newer units they have to remain powered in order to determine when the on/off button is pressed. these things are getting complicated where you can't fix everything with a socket set and some wrenches. how long will it be until they put in a inboard diagnostic port that you can plug you computer into to find out what is going on with all these systems? or until you take your trailer back to the dealer to have the software reflashed?

[Jdmorris76]

I looked at the wiring on mine. The battery disconnect appears to only feed the 12v panel inside. My hydraulic pump is fed off of a bus and automatic breaker before the battery disconnect along with another automatic breaker that I believe runs my two electric slides. (My other slides are hydraulic)

[Big Country BBQ]

Yep, the battery cutoff switch is worthless. There will still be a draw on the battery. Now we just ignore the battery cut off switch and just dis-connect the battery. That shuts everything down!

[babock]

Originally Posted by Jdmorris76

I looked at the wiring on mine. The battery disconnect appears to only feed the 12v panel inside. My hydraulic pump is fed off of a bus and automatic breaker before the battery disconnect along with another automatic breaker that I believe runs my two electric slides. (My other slides are hydraulic)

If this were my trailer, I would modify do that everything was disconnected with the disconnect switch. Seems like that would not be hard to do. One cable is what all it would take.

[Jim in Florida]

We had the same dead batteries on our 2019 33IK this past weekend. Found it with dead batteries. Charging while driving didn't get it enough charge. Weekend was kind of a pain. Had to run jumper cables from the truck to the house batteries to get anything to move.

Bought a disconnect switch that I've wired in to disconnect the batteries completely. I don't understand the logic of FR of not having the disconnect that was original really disconnect things.

Also installed a 20 watt solar panel to keep them topped off. Should never have that situation again.

Jim

[CampinGpa]

Originally Posted by Jim in Florida

We had the same dead batteries on our 2019 33IK this past weekend. Found it with dead batteries. Charging while driving didn't get it enough charge. Weekend was kind of a pain. Had to run jumper cables from the truck to the house batteries to get anything to move.

Bought a disconnect switch that I've wired in to disconnect the batteries completely. I don't understand the logic of FR of not having the disconnect that was original really disconnect things.

Also installed a 20 watt solar panel to keep them topped off. Should never have that situation again.

Jim

We have 2018 Cedar Creek Hathaway Edition 34RL2. had it at the dealer for warranty work and asked them if they could put a second battery disconnect they said no need for it. they disconnect the main battery disconnect and check it and told me there is no draw on the battery's I have them at home charging. have two 12volt battery's that feed into each other I'm not sure where to put the disconnect switch any advice would be greatly appreciative. I have already put two new interstate battery's in it. the other two lost they're charged and looked like they may have frosted over

[smittyboy]

I am placing a 80 amp relay between the battery supply cable and the buss bar where it connects, then run a smaller wire from the relay to the battery disconnect to turn it on and off. This way you don't have to run another heavy battery to the disconnect switch.

[babock]

Originally Posted by smittyboy

I am placing a 80 amp relay between the battery supply cable and the buss bar where it connects, then run a smaller wire from the relay to the battery disconnect to turn it on and off. This way you don't have to run another heavy battery to the disconnect switch.

How much power does that relay draw? Not a good method if you ask me unless you use a latching relay.

[Jim in Florida]

Originally Posted by CampinGpa

We have 2018 Cedar Creek Hathaway Edition 34RL2. had it at the dealer for warranty work and asked them if they could put a second battery disconnect they said no need for it. they disconnect the main battery disconnect and check it and told me there is no draw on the battery's I have them at home charging. have two 12volt battery's that feed into each other I'm not sure where to put the disconnect switch any advice would be greatly appreciative. I have already put two new interstate battery's in it. the other two lost they're charged and looked like they may have frosted over

I'll take a photo of my new switch and wiring configuration tomorrow.

Jim

[rockfordroo]

Originally Posted by smittyboy

I am placing a 80 amp relay between the battery supply cable and the buss bar where it connects, then run a smaller wire from the relay to the battery disconnect to turn it on and off. This way you don't have to run another heavy battery to the disconnect switch.

Originally Posted by babock

How much power does that relay draw? Not a good method if you ask me unless you use a latching relay.

If you can put in a relay, you can just put in a switch. Don't make it complicated.