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Old 01-21-2015, 01:46 PM   #11
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Sorry for my confusion in the response to the missing power. I was thinking of checking for continuity in the adaptor wiring instead of checking for voltage from the pigtail.


The directions from fonzie were correct. I removed my posting to avoid confusing the issue further.
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Old 01-21-2015, 03:17 PM   #12
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Supply plug

Most likely the plus and negative in the 110 plug on the Generator are reversed. If you have a tester you can check that. On the 15 amp receptical the wide terminal goes to the white ground. Here is a link that has them all listed. Plug and Receptacle Configurations
I have encountered this in camp grounds several times when using 30 amp to 50 amp adapter. The 30 and 20 and 15 are suppose to be wired the same way.
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Old 01-21-2015, 04:26 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flybob View Post
A 50A to 20A or 30A adapter is not just the reverse of a 20A to 50A adapter. They are wired differently.
Correct! And if you take a 2L (50amp) wire and convert it down the a 1L (20 amp) wire, there will defiantly not be enough voltage to go around. Now you have 1 hot wire trying to supply two hot wires and it just cant be done safely.

Put in a 50amp plug where you park your trailer and forget about all the science
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Old 01-21-2015, 04:46 PM   #14
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The OP is only using the adapter because he is using a portable Honda generator, as explained in the opening post.
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Old 01-21-2015, 05:36 PM   #15
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I don't have any electrical savvy but I'd bet a dollar to a donut the problem is with his adapter. When I power my Silverback with the Honda 2000 I use a 50 amp to 30 amp dogbone adapter and then a 30 amp to 20 amp plug adapter. The 20 amp then gets plugged into the Honda. As I stated before it will power all the 110v appliances but naturally not all at the same time.
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Old 01-21-2015, 07:43 PM   #16
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I would also say the problem is in the adapter. I have a 50 to 15 adapter and use it all the time. It will run everything in my 5er, with the exception of the AC. When I say everything, I'm talking 2 fridges, lights, at least 1 tv, and stereo, at the same time. I don't use the microwaves or ACs. I have an EMS and never run over 15amps. I don't camp like this, I only use it when parked at the house. It's completely safe and doable.


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Old 01-21-2015, 08:00 PM   #17
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If the adapter was to supply both legs from a 20 amp outlet there would only be 10 amps per leg. The 20 amp adapter will only supply one leg of the 50 amp service.
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Old 01-21-2015, 08:12 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caper View Post
If the adapter was to supply both legs from a 20 amp outlet there would only be 10 amps per leg. The 20 amp adapter will only supply one leg of the 50 amp service.

Caper, it also took me a little to get my head on this straight a few years back as I thought something similar.

However, this isn't necessarily the way it works. The 50 amp services are two legs (or hots) which are L1 and L2....along with a shared neutral and ground. (4 wires total). This is commonly called a 120/240 volt split phase service.

A 30/20/15 amp service is one leg (or hot) which is a L1....along with a neutral and ground. (3 wires total)

When using an adapter to plug a 50 amp into a single L1 service, what the adapter does is "shares" or jumps the single leg L1 over to the L2 line too. The neutral and ground are the same. The power is in reality shared, not split between the two legs inside the RV

Now both legs of the 50 amp service are being fed by just the L1. Both legs are powered, but just by L1. You will have power to everything in the RV......but instead of 50 amps per leg as normal (100 amps combined total), you now are going to be limited to either 30/20/15 total depending on what amp outlet you are plugged into with the adapter. There is a lot of difference between 100 amps total and either 30/20/15.

Hold on and I will find a great schematic that's been posted several times that shows this.



What can happen, is if the adapter is faulty or incorrectly wired internally, then the power isn't being jumped/shared from the L1 over onto the L2, thus anything electrical inside the RV wired on the L2 side is not being powered.
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Old 01-21-2015, 10:19 PM   #19
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When I posted my first thread on this forum I had no idea the participation would be so keen and extensive. Thanks to everyone who commented. Special thanks to Fonzie and wmtire for enlightening me. I have discovered L2 at the female end of adapter will not carry current and a closer inspection shows that there is no contact point to enble L2. For those of you that have a 20 to 50 amp adapter that powers your entire RV, I would appreciate knowing the name and model of your adapter. I now realize that given my generator has an output of 13.6 amps and the converter requires 12 amps to charge batteries, there is precious little power in reserve when the converter is running. I expect to use the generator on rare occasions when boondocking. Philip
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Old 01-22-2015, 01:47 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Philip Rank View Post
a closer inspection shows that there is no contact point to enble L2.
Philip, I'm not quite sure I'm following you here. I am going to post a few pics showing a typical 50 amp locking receptacle, as well as a modified form of Fonzies pics using the same wiring color code as the schematic I posted to clarify.

Black= L1
Red= L2
Grey= Neutral
Green= Ground

The 50 amp may appear to only have 3 terminals, but the fourth wire (ground wire) is not typical....which may be confusing the issue. Maybe these pics will help.
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