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Old 07-15-2014, 01:28 PM   #1
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Again my 36CKTS has a problem. This time it's with with sewer odors under sink

We did find the problem under the kitchen sink the vent was faulty. However the pipe under our bathroom sinks is hooked directly to the outside vent. Any suggestions??
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Old 07-24-2014, 07:34 AM   #2
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We had a problem with the same issue. Discovered the vent was faulty. We replaced the existing vent with a filtered vent from Lowes. Fits fine and we have had no odors since. When you leave the drain valve open on the grey tank in a full hook-up scenario the tank is susceptible to gases backing up from the entire sewer system. I think the cost was around $25.00 for the filtered vent. Good luck!
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Old 07-24-2014, 07:40 AM   #3
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There is a rubber flapper in there that is supposed to reseal after the air has been sucked in during use. It may be faulty.

Had a sour smell under our sink last year and could not figure it out until we cleaned it out after a trip and found "someone" had put a wet dishrag in there that got moldy and very smelly. Rag gone; smell gone.
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Old 08-11-2014, 10:24 PM   #4
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I am having the same issue with my 29RE silverback I have looked for one of these vents and can not find one. Does anyone have any ideas where it may be located. It looks like the vent for the sink goes to the roof. i thought maybe there could be one for the bathroom sink or shower. I had the issue last year also and thought there may have been a dead mouse or something under the cabinet but this year I am sure it is septic odor. Any help would be appreciated. By the way the odor is strongest in the basement under the trailer and kitchen cabinets which are open to the basement.
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Old 08-12-2014, 04:12 PM   #5
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Our 35QB4 has a vent under the bathroom sink for the bath tank and one behind the oven for the galley tank. Any time we have a fantastic fan on and a tank valve open, we need to have a couple windows open. Otherwise the fan pulls hard enough to suck the sewer smell past the cheap vent valves. Closing the tank valves helps, but I'm hoping that a vent check valve upgrade will fix the problem.
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Old 08-12-2014, 04:27 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MIFarmer View Post
Our 35QB4 has a vent under the bathroom sink for the bath tank and one behind the oven for the galley tank. Any time we have a fantastic fan on and a tank valve open, we need to have a couple windows open. Otherwise the fan pulls hard enough to suck the sewer smell past the cheap vent valves. Closing the tank valves helps, but I'm hoping that a vent check valve upgrade will fix the problem.
Keeping your tank dump valves open is a recipe for stinky tanks. Doing this allows solids, soap scum, hair, food particles, and slime to dry on the tank walls and, well, smell.

Leaving the tank valves open also allows an odor path from the sewer to your camper since sewer gases can enter your camper through P traps that have "sloshed" empty during travel and the toilet valve when flushing. The bathroom vent fan complicates matters by actually pulling the sewer gases out of your empty traps.

I keep my dump valves closed when not actually dumping them.
I don't think the plastic vent is your problem; though changing it to another one will eliminate that as a source.
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Old 08-12-2014, 04:42 PM   #7
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We've been full-timing for the last 3 months - no dry P traps here.
Valves open + fan on = smell
Valves closed + fan on = no smell

With the valves open and the fan on I can hear the vent valve under the sink fluttering. I don't think the lowest-bidder check valves are doing their job.
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Old 08-12-2014, 04:53 PM   #8
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As stated above your valves should ONLY be open when your tanks are FULL or near full.
They should NEVER BE LEFT OPEN.

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Old 08-12-2014, 05:51 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MIFarmer View Post
Valves open + fan on = smell
Valves closed + fan on = no smell
Exactly...

Quote:
Originally Posted by MIFarmer View Post
We've been full-timing for the last 3 months - no dry P traps here.
Meaning all your traps have had water run in them and you still get odors.
Close your dump valves...

Quote:
Originally Posted by MIFarmer View Post
With the valves open and the fan on I can hear the vent valve under the sink fluttering. I don't think the lowest-bidder check valves are doing their job.
The check valve should only admit air from the camper into the soil pipe when there is lower pressure in the soil pipe (like when you are dumping your gray tank); this prevents a vacuum in the pipe that will suck water out of your trap.

The rubber disk can dry out and not seal at all; but then it would not be opening and closing as air would just go past it on the way to the sewer.

Same when the pressure is greater in the pipe than in the camper (fan on high); the disk should seal and no sewer air should flow into the camper. If the seal is damaged, it is possible it might buzz as long as the fan is on, but it will most likely just lay there and let the sewer gases just get sucked into the camper through your open valves.

What water are you using when you hear the "flapper flapping"?
Is it the vanity in the bathroom, the shower, or the kitchen sink?

Where is the vent that is "malfunctioning"?
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Old 08-12-2014, 07:45 PM   #10
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You're trying to troubleshoot something that's already been troubleshot: I have two bad air admittance valves. Turn on a single fan on the lowest setting with the windows closed, and that small amount of pressure differential will pull air from the tanks the wrong way through the check valves (the AAVs). Those are what make the fluttering sounds (no water flowing, just the air flow). They're clearly faulty. If they were working properly the status of the tank drain valves would be irrelevant.
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