Originally Posted by BandJCarm
I did miss it....it was being posted when I was in and out, I'm sorry! No slight intended.
I have one worry I guess. Even the installation instructions for the bolt on kit say that the BEST way to put the bolt on the round footplate is to weld the bolt head on!! The drilling instructions require some special tools that I don't have. And.......welding WOULD be better I'd think.
Still, I'm being told by other CC folks that it can't be done.
I can't find a single model of what I have, specifically, that has done it. There's no CC models in the SteadyFast pictures or examples. I'd sure feel better if someone with my unit (there's a million of 'em) has done it.
Will check back later.........
Ok I am the doubting Thomas on these type of add on devices.
Will you have to weld on the frame and or drill into the frame! Being a retired structural engineer I am afraid of aftermarket welding taking place on an I-beam type of frame.
One; there should be no transvers welds on the frame; this will induce cracking and or fatigue weld failures on the frame.
Two; what type of weld rod will the welder use on the frame will it be compatible to the frame material? Steel is not steel when you use I-beams for framing. Different types of material grade and alloys to make up this steel can be used when designing the frame. With different types of fatigue life that the welding can effect. You might need to pre-heat and or post heat the frame to reduce the weld stress that can be introduced. This too might effect the hydraulic ram material when welded!
Three; will this weld penetrate the parent material and be structural sound weld or just slag deposit?
Now drill brings a whole new set of problems when drilling into an I-beam frame. Where will the drilled hole be place near the edge and or in the web of the I-Beam. These type of holes may lead to fatigue stress of the frame and crack it over time.
Why do you think you need the stabilizing supports?
Do you extend the hydraulic rams to their full length? If so try to shorten up the ram extended legs; by placing Lynx Level pads or wooded blocks under the ram legs. I use between three and four pads under the rear legs. On the front legs I like to spread out the weight of the fiver by using a 2X8X12" long and two 4X4x12" long cedar post screwed and glued to the wooden board.
My wife has never complained about me walking around in our 34RL when we are set up.
You can also install two X-Chocks between the wheels for additional stability if you think you needed it.
Also remember you will need to cut away the outside wall wrapper that covers the frame on your Cedar Creek. This too may cause you issues down the road.