Belly panel

[spock123]

I need to replace the black water tank valve and I need to know how to move the panels. Is there a YouTube video on it. The black water tank valve has been a problem from day one

[Kimber45]

Mine is held up with self tapping screws with washers. should be as easy as backing the screws out to drop the under belly liner.

[Jim34RL]

Originally Posted by spock123

I need to replace the black water tank valve and I need to know how to move the panels. Is there a YouTube video on it. The black water tank valve has been a problem from day one

Have you checked out the build video by Cedar Creek? In the Frame section the video shows the components that are placed in the lower frame before the tanks are installed. They are the plastic black panels, a full length AL sheet, than wood slats for support, fiberglass insulation material and wiring + waterlines that have been installed.

So, it will not be that ease to just drop the panels you will have to cut some material to gain access to the black water gate valve.

Now has the black water gate valve access method failed, push/pull cable or is the valve not closing tightly and leaking a little? If the valve is leaking purchase yourself a external gate valve for the drain line. I have purchase this and this is the last valve that is opened when draining the tanks. Nothing leaks from this valve. To me this was a lot easier to install and fix my leaky black tank valve that would leak from time to time. I purchase a Valterra T-50 waste valve that fits the main drain line. This has worked great and stays on the camper 100% of the time.

[CHICKDOE]

my underbelly was slashed by a rv tech to get at a leaking hose. did not repair it at all. of course I didn't go underneath to see it until months later. I mentioned this to another rv tech and he said they do things much better if they have to open up the underbelly. he said they neatly cut out the section they need to in order to gain access. then when covering back up they put some sheet metal flashing on the upper surface of the underbelly that extends into where they cut. then run sheet metal screws through the underbelly into the flashing to hold it in place. then replace the section they cut out and run sheet metal screws through it into the flashing to hold the cut out piece. finally some tape around the cut to seal it and hold the screws. he said it if very clean and it can be taken off again if you ever need to get back into that area.

[spock123]

I have a external gate valve. My black water tank valve doesn't just leak it pours. When I open the grey water tanks doesn't the black water get in the grey water tanks

[rmshorter]

I drop the panels to gain access to the under side. But I also bought this tape to repair the under belly cover: https://www.amazon.com/4x25-Mobile-P...B6CWVZJGDBVJR9. Also used it to cover the joints between the panels. I hope this helps if you need to cut into the panels.

[spock123]

I crawled under the Cedar Creek and it looks like I have to take some screws out and pop the panel out, getting the panel back in will be the worst problem. I was just wondering if any Cedar Creek owner had this problem. I would rather have this problem fixed.

[Jim34RL]

Originally Posted by spock123

I have a external gate valve. My black water tank valve doesn't just leak it pours. When I open the grey water tanks doesn't the black water get in the grey water tanks

I do not think so! Why? The gray water tanks valves are closed correct! Then you empty the blank tank line and tank first when the water stops flowing you than open the gray tanks. I would also dump two to three 5 gallon buckets of clear water down the toilet after the black tank has been emptied. This will insure that the drain line runs clear first. Even in mid-week I have run the black tank flush to to be sure the black tank is emptied along with the buckets of water.

The waste line should be empty of the black water when the gray tanks start to empty also I would empty the galley tank first.

[dieselguy]

I've had some of my belly panels down replacing a fresh water tank that was cracked. They as wide as your frame in sections screwed to 2X2's above each section. While underneath at each section (recessed with screws) .... remove the half dozen or so screws and bow the panel in the middle till one end flange on the section comes out of the frame. You'll be staring at foil insulation with regular batt insulation above that. Move it out of the way as needed and repair your valve. Pull the insulation back in place, bow the panel(s) and they'll go back in with a bit of a struggle. Replace the screws a the seams. No cutting up a panel ... no patching over with Gorilla Tape.
PS ... just replace the blade and seal portion of the valve (4 bolts and the cable) ... it's way easier than trying to cut and glue everything which will be near impossible.