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Old 01-06-2019, 10:07 AM   #1
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Black tank - dump valve and rinse connection

I currently have two issues with my black tank.


The dump valve leaks. There's resistance closing it, and it has a slow leak. Currently have an external valve to ensure I don't take a bath, but need to fix. What are the chances it's the cable routing and not the actual valve? Any tips on replacing the valve from those that have done it?


The black tank flush quite working awhile ago - won't accept water. I've tried using compressed air to blow out any blockage to no avail. Is there a valve in the water line that may be bad, preventing water from going to the tank? Or should I order a new assembly and replace while doing the valve?



Thanks!
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Old 01-06-2019, 04:49 PM   #2
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I'd guess it's the valve itself … common issue after a few years. After being sure the tank is empty and dropping the belly pan in that area, it's 4 bolts to get the valve blade out. A new valve blade with (preferably) a solid wire cable will bolt back in the existing flanges that are glued to the tank outlet and down plumbing. My black tank started leaking on a trip and it turned out to be a stuck piece of wood the factory installer sawed thru the floor and tank top then just let drop into the tank when he was doing the plumbing.
As for the tank flush, there sometimes is a backflow preventer right at the hose connection, but I would think compressed air would have blown it open if it were stuck. Something easier diagnosed while you have part of the belly down fixing the valve.
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Old 01-06-2019, 05:26 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by aknavy View Post
I currently have two issues with my black tank.


The dump valve leaks. There's resistance closing it, and it has a slow leak. Currently have an external valve to ensure I don't take a bath, but need to fix. What are the chances it's the cable routing and not the actual valve? Any tips on replacing the valve from those that have done it?


The black tank flush quite working awhile ago - won't accept water. I've tried using compressed air to blow out any blockage to no avail. Is there a valve in the water line that may be bad, preventing water from going to the tank? Or should I order a new assembly and replace while doing the valve?

Thanks!
After you have completely drained the black tank, remove the dump hose and use a garden hose and flush the valve and plumbing with the garden hose shove it in all the way to the valve if you can. Exercise the gate valve while the hose in there. You may have TP trapped in the gate slide grove.
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Old 01-10-2019, 07:31 PM   #4
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The black tank flush uses a check valve which is located up above the wet closet; mine is under the bath sinks. That valve may be bad. Here is a photo of mine.
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Old 01-11-2019, 08:11 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by florabama View Post
The black tank flush uses a check valve which is located up above the wet closet; mine is under the bath sinks. That valve may be bad. Here is a photo of mine.

My check valve was under the sink in the bathroom. I replaced it with this one: JR Products 571-VAC-CHK-A Vacuum Breaker/Check Valve

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Not to hijack this thread, I do not use a water pressure regulator when flushing the black tank and have wondered if high water pressure could have damaged the valve.
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Old 01-11-2019, 08:35 AM   #6
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Black tank - dump valve and rinse connection

The valve is easy to replace. Get the Valera parts from amazon. My experience was not the valve but rather the cable was stiff/needed lubing and there was debris as noted above. I also started to add valve lube (thetford) to the tank. The biggest challenge is getting the tank empty and getting access to the valve.

Thanks for the link. I too use a pressure regulator as one time I had a leak from the Area where that valve is located when we had extremely high water pressure at the campground
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Old 01-11-2019, 10:44 AM   #7
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I'll look for that valve - I saw one similar behind the medicine cabinet in the bathroom, but will check in the wet bay as well. Thanks for the info!
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Old 01-11-2019, 03:13 PM   #8
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If the valve is more than two years old I would replace it, the black tank valve gets used the most and wears out quicker than the others. They are not that expensive.


My black water tank flush had the back flow preventer right behind the hose connection. My line went directly into the tank with a spray head attached in the tank. Not sure why it would go under a counter. I installed a third-party flush system into a friends M/H awhile back and the preventer was part of the water hose connector. Good luck...
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Old 01-11-2019, 03:38 PM   #9
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Fifth Wheelers … the reason some are referring to the flush line going under a counter or under a sink is that many RV's today with the tank flush have a vacuum breaker valve inline somewhere instead of a check valve at the inlet that I mentioned. It's higher than the highest point of the flush line and serves in place of the check at the inlet. All 3 of my Montanas had one. When they fail, it makes a soggy mess as water pours out of the vac breaker fitting while the flush line is pressurized. Been there and have the T shirt … Ha!
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