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Old 11-24-2015, 01:09 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by ret2006 View Post
I have a 2014 Cedar Creek 34 RLSA and the black tank cable is getting more difficult to pull and open the valve. Just a matter of time it will break. I really don't think it is the valve itself. I use the cocanut oil lube every few weeks. The other two gray valve cables aren't nearly as difficult although they have gotten harder to pull since two years ago. I have sprayed the cable with Boeshield just near the handle so the entire cable is not getting the lube.

How difficult is it to get to the tank valve to replace the cable? Any suggestions would be appreciated.
I had seen a post on another forum a few years back of someone with the same problem and he did the following.
Remove the "T" handle, use 3/8 ID clear plastic tubing over the stem of the handle to fit snug on the threaded section of the cable. Prop up the open end of the tubing and fill with a light weight oil such as 3 in 1 oil and let gravity take over.
I have never tried this so I can't say if it works or not.
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Old 11-24-2015, 01:13 PM   #12
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Have the same situation with the black tank handle in my new Silverback 33IK. Will be looking for suggestions.
My 2016 Silverback 29 RE is the same even after dealer replacing the cable. New from FR the cable was snapped.
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Old 11-24-2015, 01:13 PM   #13
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Had the same problem and reported it at the Goshen rally. Because of another issue that could not be fixed at the rally, the RV was returned to the factory for repair. The cable actually broke when the technician tried to open the valve. They replaced the cable/handle assembly and it works a little bit better, but I really think that the valve needs replaced too. I have it at the dealer right now to let them take a look at it.
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Old 11-24-2015, 02:49 PM   #14
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Unless you really have an aversion to spinning wrenches, this isn't a very tough project. 4 bolts and the valve comes right off in your hands. Sometimes the bolts are just tightened too tight and the blade jambs.

PS be sure tank is empty ...
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Old 11-24-2015, 03:22 PM   #15
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Mine also has the cables that are getting really hard to move. The biggest issue is removing the underbelly cover to get access to the valves. Has anyone cut a access hole in underbelly cover and if so how did you patch it back up.
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Old 11-24-2015, 04:14 PM   #16
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Like I mentioned, if you have the sectional plastic belly panels, just remove the seam screws and bow it down ... it'll come right out. If you have the one piece plastic cardboard belly pan, just cut a 3 sided flap in it. When you're done, fold it back up and seal it with Gorilla Tape.
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