Black tank valve and cable

[ret2006]

I have a 2014 Cedar Creek 34 RLSA and the black tank cable is getting more difficult to pull and open the valve. Just a matter of time it will break. I really don't think it is the valve itself. I use the cocanut oil lube every few weeks. The other two gray valve cables aren't nearly as difficult although they have gotten harder to pull since two years ago. I have sprayed the cable with Boeshield just near the handle so the entire cable is not getting the lube.

How difficult is it to get to the tank valve to replace the cable? Any suggestions would be appreciated.

[tedstr]

Have the same situation with the black tank handle in my new Silverback 33IK. Will be looking for suggestions.

[dkelly]

Same problem with 2014 36ckts. I read an article in Trailer Life magazine about drilling a small hole in the top of the valve and injecting a lubricant, working the valve until free, plug the hole with a small screw, then all should be good for a while. I'm going to try this in the spring when I get "the fever" again.

[allitan]

Our 2015 38CK is in the shop for some warranty work right now and that problem is on our list to fix. The service gal says they are putting longer cables on to correct the stiff valves. Sounded like they'd dealt with this before this way.

[97flhtcui]

I spray mine with silicone spray every time I drain.

[Pipeman]

I had that same problem a few years back. Couldn't close the black water valve at all. Luckily I had an end of line valve, so I could still dump when I had to. Long story short, there was 75 miles of cable ( ok I exaggerate) under my underbelly covering. I took it to my dealer, had to order new valves(never used) for the cable. New, shortened cable was installed. The problem was that there is an inside sheath that the cable runs through and it ended up binding, therefore not allowing the cable to move. Ended up having the same problem with the gray water cable for the bathroom. Took it to another trailer mechanic that I found and like doing business with. He told me that the valves actually face the door side of the trailer, which doesn't make any sense..to me. He managed to turn the gray water valve towards the driver's side of the 5er. He also got rid of the cable and drilled a hole through the frame and installed a rod. Works much better and will do the same for the black water valve if and when the time comes. Worked for me.

[NCBBA11043]

Originally Posted by tedstr

Have the same situation with the black tank handle in my new Silverback 33IK. Will be looking for suggestions.

X2

[bradybr]

I also was having this problem with my cables when pulling/pushing the handle, so I took it in and had the cables replaced with rods. Now so much nicer and easier.

Bob

[dieselguy]

If you have the segmented plastic belly panels. Remove the 5 or so screws along both seams of the piece of belly pan near the main drain line. Bow the panel down and remove. On the street side, push insulation aside as needed and you'll be looking right at the grey tank dump valve. As you'll see the cable makes a big loop and just lubing the exposed cable pull will probably never get lube end to end. The Trailer Life magazine article has merit, but I found the actual blade of my dump valve was sticking more than the cable. I removed the whole valve, disassembled, lubed the blade with Parker ORing lube, reassembled. Works great.

[BRUCEANDCYNDI]

dkelly, I saw the same article and would like to hear some feed back

[offduty11]

Originally Posted by ret2006

I have a 2014 Cedar Creek 34 RLSA and the black tank cable is getting more difficult to pull and open the valve. Just a matter of time it will break. I really don't think it is the valve itself. I use the cocanut oil lube every few weeks. The other two gray valve cables aren't nearly as difficult although they have gotten harder to pull since two years ago. I have sprayed the cable with Boeshield just near the handle so the entire cable is not getting the lube.

How difficult is it to get to the tank valve to replace the cable? Any suggestions would be appreciated.

I had seen a post on another forum a few years back of someone with the same problem and he did the following.
Remove the "T" handle, use 3/8 ID clear plastic tubing over the stem of the handle to fit snug on the threaded section of the cable. Prop up the open end of the tubing and fill with a light weight oil such as 3 in 1 oil and let gravity take over.
I have never tried this so I can't say if it works or not.

[offduty11]

Originally Posted by tedstr

Have the same situation with the black tank handle in my new Silverback 33IK. Will be looking for suggestions.

My 2016 Silverback 29 RE is the same even after dealer replacing the cable. New from FR the cable was snapped.

[Lloydg]

Had the same problem and reported it at the Goshen rally. Because of another issue that could not be fixed at the rally, the RV was returned to the factory for repair. The cable actually broke when the technician tried to open the valve. They replaced the cable/handle assembly and it works a little bit better, but I really think that the valve needs replaced too. I have it at the dealer right now to let them take a look at it.

[dieselguy]

Unless you really have an aversion to spinning wrenches, this isn't a very tough project. 4 bolts and the valve comes right off in your hands. Sometimes the bolts are just tightened too tight and the blade jambs.

PS be sure tank is empty ...

[EDABEUT]

Mine also has the cables that are getting really hard to move. The biggest issue is removing the underbelly cover to get access to the valves. Has anyone cut a access hole in underbelly cover and if so how did you patch it back up.

[dieselguy]

Like I mentioned, if you have the sectional plastic belly panels, just remove the seam screws and bow it down ... it'll come right out. If you have the one piece plastic cardboard belly pan, just cut a 3 sided flap in it. When you're done, fold it back up and seal it with Gorilla Tape.