Black tank valve replacement

Boatdude62 · 01-19-2019, 07:49 PM

I know there are many topics on this subject. After many attempts and test I’ve determined a new black tank valve is needed in our unit.

Has anyone replaced the black tank valve on a cc 36 ckts? Ours is a 2013. I’m looking for any suggestions before I remove the underbelly and try and install a new one. I’ve flushed the tank as much as possible, clear water is the only thing that comes out now.

I’m hoping assess is not difficult to change out the valve.

spock123 · 01-19-2019, 10:01 PM

I had Amish Family RV replace mine so no help on that. I have took the cover off and that’s not to hard. I used the front jacks to lift up the camper as high as I could to help make the job easier. I put a valve on the end of the sewer line

SilverbackMel · 01-20-2019, 07:46 PM

Try “search” there have been MANY posts on this subject.
Lots of great advice.

Rich5117 · 01-23-2019, 10:51 AM

Last year I to was convinced a new black tank valve was needed. Once I got to the valve I actually found the valve was free moving and it was in fact the braided pull cable that was the source of the problem.

Provided you can get the rest of the piping separated enough to get the valve out it it not to difficult.

flattyattack · 01-23-2019, 03:27 PM

We have a 2013 CKTS as well and so tired to dealing with the pull valve. Extended warranty runs out in August, it is in the shop now and I told them they better get it fixed (not really thinking they will) it has been worked on before. Any details on how and what to replace them with will be appreciated.

johnlochbuie · 01-23-2019, 08:32 PM

I can tell you first hand don,t try this yourself if yours is like most they are put together before they are put into the rv so there is only about 1\8 of a inch between the valve and the main pipe so it is almost impossible to get the new valve on without the seal rolling off of the valve and if it is not right it will leak

FordHaul · 01-23-2019, 08:42 PM

The only way to solve that problem is to make sure the pull wire is solid stainless steel wire. As some one else stated the braided wire will separate and cause problems. Also the entire assembly is way too long.
I received the complete assembly (valve, cable, sheath, handle, stop nuts, etc) from Cedar Creek and decided to shorten the cable. If you decide that you do not need 8’ of cable from the handle to the valve, use the existing length of the cable sticking out of the sheath on the valve end as a pattern. I ended up with about 4’ of cable. When I reassembled the cable into the sheath I coated it with anti-seize lubricant. Work great now.
The valve was not the problem at all and my original is still in place. YMMV
Travel safe

Twincamper · 03-02-2019, 07:54 AM

We Have a 18 33IK and use it al winter in Northern NH and now have a black flush problem.
It appears that the cable pull handle is frozen/rusted to its housing. When trying to dump, the handle will not move at all, the mounting panel flexes but no movement of the cable.
Has anyone had this problem? I was thinking of removing the handle and cable from the panel and trying to spray wd40 or similar rust penetrant into the cable.
Thoughts?

flattyattack · 03-02-2019, 04:24 PM

We have always had trouble with the pull handles on our 2013 Cedar Creek we have made them work on them twice before. Well, while it was in the shop for other repairs we told them they had to replace the pull handles, extended warranty runs out in August and we just did not want to fight with them anymore. Today we went to pick up the 5ver, they show us an all new handle system they put in. Tech said,"oh by the way whey didn't you tell us the black tank was full", they were not happy to say the least. Well, it was not supposed to have anything in it but antifreeze. We had long since given up getting the thing to read empty, we have flushed flushed flushed put in cleaners until we were sick of it. Finally resigned to it never reading empty, guess what the pull handle was not opening all the way and the tank was never emptying all the way, which was causing it to not read empty because it was not empty. I said oh well, if you had of changed the crappy pull handles on it the other two times it was in here it would have saved both of us grief.

So happy we have easy to pull and close tank handles as well as having an empty tank and one that reads empty.
Posting this just so others that are having trouble with their tank sensors not reading empty, it might not be empty?? if their handles are giving them trouble as well.

Boatdude62 · 03-05-2019, 05:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Twincamper

We Have a 18 33IK and use it al winter in Northern NH and now have a black flush problem.

It appears that the cable pull handle is frozen/rusted to its housing. When trying to dump, the handle will not move at all, the mounting panel flexes but no movement of the cable.

Has anyone had this problem? I was thinking of removing the handle and cable from the panel and trying to spray wd40 or similar rust penetrant into the cable.

Thoughts?

That’s what I did... it free up the pull function. As it is usable but not perfect yet.
Ours not closing all the way. Plan on replacing the cable soon.

Doug Currie · 03-07-2019, 11:32 AM

I finally had it with cables. I will be doing an install video for the Barker Auto drain valves within the next 2 weeks as well as lots of other mods to our 33RL on our youtube channel. If interested let me know I'll be sure to send you a link. Our first video is up now. " Preparing for full-time RVing.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=QysaAfwm_Hc

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