Black water cable is broken again!

[DDC]

Originally Posted by ba964

Replaced mine with electric valve. No more aggrevation.

Any pictures of your conversion?

[Big-Foot]

Originally Posted by 17 Oaks

Tried that thinking lube would cure what issue there was, but lube is not the prob, its kinked due to the shortness and corners it has to make, maybe your results will be different????

Hi Don... Good to see another familiar face around here..
If there are any routing issues with those cables, I'll tackle them at the same time. I'll also look into restraints to keep the cable jacket from moving while it's being operated.
Problem is that the camper's close to 2,000 miles away and I won't see it until October some time..

[ba964]

DDC - No pics available. Was installed by an RV dealership. Valve is buried in underbelly. Cannot see unless removal of underbelly panels.

[17 Oaks]

Originally Posted by Big-Foot

Hi Don... Good to see another familiar face around here..
If there are any routing issues with those cables, I'll tackle them at the same time. I'll also look into restraints to keep the cable jacket from moving while it's being operated.
Problem is that the camper's close to 2,000 miles away and I won't see it until October some time..

HEY Randy, good to see ya here.

Thanks for the good advice, gonna try to get under that thing and see if I can do something with it, otherwise its back to the dealer for warranty work, which takes forever...

[Rich5117]

Narrowsboy do you still have individual valves for each tank?

[narrowsboy]

Originally Posted by Rich5117

Narrowsboy do you still have individual valves for each tank?

Yes each tank has individual cable controlled valves but the main discharge has a gate valve and cap assembly from the factory

[rmcmillion]

I have a gray galley valve stuck closed and will buy one of these for sure. My concern with using this exclusively and leaving the factory valves open all of the time is that it will make all three of my tanks black water tanks. Any issues with? Smell?

[Havasu Bill]

These valves are used as a last resort when your main valve(s) are stuck open. This way you can dump without spilling all over.
You still need to repair the broken valve(s).
In your case, keep the black and other gray valves closed and dump as normal they the last block valve.

[jjcook]

17 Oaks I just removed the first panel behind the fwd storage area to get at the 3 inch valve. I thought my cable was bad but it is not , something has the valve stuck open. Just started to rain so I will take out the valve tomorrow I'am thinking maybe 1 of the seals came loose or something from inside the tank has it stuck. Good luck

[jjcook]

Well I pulled down the panel on the belly to get at the black tank valve. I had to cut the pipe aft of the valve to get it out , took it apart cleaned it and applied silicone grease to it. One of the seals was not seated right that might have been some of the problem , also the cable has to make so many turns that it becomes hard to open and shut the valve. If you keep the cable straight while off the rig the valve works alot better . I put it back together and it works just hard to operate. So I will keep my fingers crossed that it last.
jjcook is online now Report Post

[Big-Foot]

Secure your cable tightly in numerous places so that the cable jacket does not move when operating the cable - you'll find that it works MUCH better that way.
Think about it -
You move the cable 1/2" at the lever, the jacket moves 1/4", how much do you think the business end of the cable moves?

[Cloudteaser]

Any Pics of you 2018 33IK?

[jjcook]

Cloudteaser Nope no pictures sorry we have 2017 29Re

[narrowsboy]

Originally Posted by Cloudteaser

Any Pics of you 2018 33IK?

I will post some tomorrow. Anything in particular you want to see

[ttanous]

Well my black tank cable finally gave out. 2 1/2 years old and never worked right. Oh and the tank was full of you know what. Had the RV shop drain/flush the black tank and replace valve. Replaced with electric valve. Let's see if this will hold up better than the one we had. Can't be any worse.

[17 Oaks]

Originally Posted by 17 Oaks

Just went thru this last weekend on my new CC. Finally got it working somewhat using LOTS of WD 40 down the cable, but opening and closing takes a LOT of muscle and I am in good shape. Twist and turn while pulling open or closing helps.

I can replace the cable, but I do not have a diagram of where things are at underneath and I don't want to go in just cutting things open. Is there a diagram anywhere that anyone knows of?

UPDATE:

Turns out it was not the cable or in fact a bad valve. That it was was being over-glued at the factory and getting glue in the valve, making the valve difficult to operate.

What a shop did, was remove the valve, clean off the old glue, replace the valve. Now it works as it should.

SO, if your cable breaks or is difficult, the origin maybe to much glue on the OEM install.

[Big-Foot]

Man that had to be an icky job... Glad you're good to go now...

[timfromma]

I had to pull so hard on my black cable that the tank started to leak. Luckily, our TT was still under warranty and we got it fixed for free.

Black cable pulls easily now.

[17 Oaks]

Originally Posted by Big-Foot

Man that had to be an icky job... Glad you're good to go now...

Was not to bad as we had only used the black once and managed to empty it before we left. But we knew something was wrong so we did not use it again till it was fixed.

What I see and hear on cable systems there are a lot folks doing cable replacements. Now that I have gone thru this, it may well be the cable is a RESULT of and not the issue, same goes for the valve, not a bad valve, but a over-glue that fouls the valve and puts excess strain on the cable, causing them to fail.

[Big-Foot]

Hopefully FR starts doing a better job of this in the future to save owners from another headache...