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Old 07-21-2016, 08:08 PM   #11
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Thanks everyone for the information. I did not plan to pull the bearings. Have had the CC for about 1 1/2 years and was new. Have not pulled over 3k miles. Plan to grease through the zerts.
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Old 07-21-2016, 08:14 PM   #12
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I Quote "There is red PERMATEX. It is for high temperatures. From another thread I started, it is needed to prevent the seals from popping if you inject grease via the zerk fitting of the EZ lube system"
You still have not mentioned how/where/when this is applied. Air pressure grease gun? Hand pumped? Need a little bit more info on your red Permatex
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Old 07-21-2016, 09:52 PM   #13
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I'm not a fan of the EZ Lube spindles ... I've seen a boat load of people with grease on their brake shoes directly attributed to the EZ Lube and not knowing how to make it work right. As for the red Permatex product ... I guran damned tee if you are pumping so fast that your risk popping the seal out of the wheel hub ... you'll already have blown grease past the seal lip and contaminated your brake shoes. You're supposed to jack each wheel up and slowly turn it while you slowly pump grease till it comes out the front bearing. This usually takes near a tube of grease per wheel the first time. I could near have the wheel pulled and hand packed the bearing by then and been able to check the brakes and hardware as well.
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Old 07-21-2016, 10:03 PM   #14
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No need to get ? i just asked a few questions. You still did not answer my question on how to properly use the Permatex red on the seal.
Have a wonderful camping season.I am out.
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Old 07-21-2016, 10:27 PM   #15
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Oh I'm not ? at all ... I was just throwing out some hands on observations of the EZ lube. Ask about any RV tech and many will have similar stories. None the less ... although most any wheel seal comes with a sealer applied to the metal OD of the seal itself ... the red permatex would go over that OEM sealant layer per Dexter's own reasoning. You can't hand pack wheel bearings without removing the rear seal ... you won't want to reuse the seal ... thus a new one to be installed. Since you're not hand packing, I'd say my info is mute to some but beneficial to others.
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Old 07-21-2016, 11:36 PM   #16
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You need to be careful which type of grease you mix together. Dexter recommends that you use a lithium complex grease. If you mix other types with lithium grease they may or will react with each other and cause the grease to fail Many of the grease manufactures produce a lithium based grease you just need to make sure. If you can't find this grease check with your local auto store.

Hope this is helpful Tim
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Old 07-22-2016, 05:17 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DJNCJ View Post
I use Mystik NLGI #2 High Temp multi purpose Lithium Complex. Working temp of -10f to 325f. Recommended for disc brake bearings. It is fine to use on the shackels too.

Are you pulling the drums and hand packing the bearings or pumping it in through the axle zerks?
X2. Just got back from a 3 week 6000 mile vacation running Mystik without any issues. When I pulled the hubs to regrease last weekend it was hardly discolored. Repacked them anyway. Good stuff.

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Old 07-22-2016, 10:44 AM   #18
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X2 on TimVWulp's comment about not mixing grease. Mine requires a lithium complex grease. You can mix brands just make sure it is the same type.

If you have the EZ Lube axle you should slowly rotate the wheel while you add the grease.

If you don't have the booklet that came with the trailer for the axle you can download it from the manufacture's website, in it there should be a page or two that lists approved type and brands.
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Old 07-22-2016, 11:01 AM   #19
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I have the EZ lub system on my Wildcat MAXX. I lub'ed the bearings using the EZ zerks exactly as the owners manual states. Jacked up each wheel, rotated the wheel by hand as I slowly added grease. The result--- I had one side of the trailer without brakes. Pulled the wheels off, removed the hubs and found a mess. There was grease all over the brake shoes, drums, and most everywhere else. Enough is enough, it's back to hand packing for me!!
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Old 07-22-2016, 11:19 AM   #20
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Isn't the real consideration here on the grease, NGLI #2. That should be the API equivalent spec for a grease blender. Shouldn't matter whether its Mystic, Chevron or Rotella as far as compatability. On the previous TT, I'd give it a couple pumps with a hand operated gun once a season and never had an issue with blown seals, contaminated brake linings or bearing failure in over 7 years. I'd think if you had a bearing too tight or spalled, you'd figure that out in under 200 miles of running after whatever was just done to the running gear. Those are assumptions made considering you haven't towed through a flood. Yes, No?
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