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Old 11-19-2018, 05:03 PM   #1
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Cedar Creek 38FL Black tank valve finally bit the dust

Thank goodness it’s stuck open and I can use the add on blade valve for dumping for now. What kind of repair bill should I expect, as I can’t do the job myself?
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Old 11-19-2018, 06:48 PM   #2
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How competent is your local dealer!
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Old 11-19-2018, 06:53 PM   #3
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We’re full timers so we don’t have a “local dealer”.... which is the reason I’m looking for a ballpark figure for the repair BEFORE I call in professional help. Thanks
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Old 11-19-2018, 07:38 PM   #4
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Depends on the hourly rate in the area you are in. Also depends on how long the cable is and how hard it is to get to.

Seems most hourly rates in our area are $135 to $185. I would think a two hour max, perhaps one hour. If a mobile service, maybe a service call fee also.

So hopefully under $200 for the job. Usually estimates are free.
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Old 11-19-2018, 08:09 PM   #5
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Thanks for the feedback.....
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Old 11-19-2018, 08:33 PM   #6
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First.... thank you for your Service Master Chief ! Secondly I had 3 valves replaced at one time by my local Camping World for $350. Figured I would get them all done while the belly was opened up. Make sure you DO NOT get the twisted wire cables as they do not last, solid cable is what you want.
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Old 11-19-2018, 09:27 PM   #7
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Thanks for your reply.... serving our country was a calling I shared with my grandfather (Chief Radioman USN), my Dad (Sergeant Major, USA) and my brother (First Sergeant, USA). Thank you for your kind words 🇺🇸

Your response was more than helpful. I didn’t know about the difference in cables. I’d read about the problems with cables being too long, which led to their failures. The repair cost information was very helpful and much appreciated

Happy trails!!
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Old 11-19-2018, 11:15 PM   #8
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You are very welcome and good luck!
USAF SSGT and ANG as a young man. Father USA and USAF and his father USN. My Sister and her husband USA. Happy post Veterans Day and have a great Thanksgiving sir! We do have much to be thankful for.....
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Old 11-20-2018, 09:37 AM   #9
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All 3 of our valves were a PIA since day 1. One finally broke last Christmas, like you luckily it was open. Since they leaked from day 1 we had a twist-on valve already so we were able to get by till we got home.

The issue was the cables were all way to long so the were wrapped/looped in the underbelly. They were actually twisted cable so pushing the valves caused them to expand. We found the actual valves worked pretty well but decided to start fresh and just do it the way it should have been done in the first place.

We replaced the plumbing and changed all the valves to Valterra solid cable valves and haven't had any issues.

Not sure how much we spent but it was at least a few hundred on valves, black pipe and fittings. We did the work ourselves which I would guess saved us $300.00-$500.00 in labor. If I had someone do all this I would have budgeted about a grand and would have been very safe.

An alternative is only replacing the cables. Valterra sells solid wire cables and if you can get to the valves you can or have someone properly measure and cut the wire correctly then install them onto the existing Bristol valves. Parts are about a hundred and labor guessing 2-300.

https://www.amazon.com/Valterra-TC72...valterra+cable
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Old 11-20-2018, 12:02 PM   #10
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I had my tank valves replaced by Orvan Fry, free, under warranty. The black water tank valve had never worked
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Old 11-21-2018, 10:33 AM   #11
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I have a 2015 36CKTS Cedar Creek and fall of 2017 my black tank valve stayed open, so after talking on the phone with Orvan Fry, I removed the back bottom pan from the lowered section and reconnected the connection for the black tank pull. The valve assembly should be right there. o the driver side. I did have a pic from one of his techs sent me that might help explain what has to be done. (It was on our phone and after falling into the toilet is not longer available - washed out you could say). It is simple if you want to remove the screws/bolts holding last panel in order to access the apparatus needing reconnection. Assuming your problem is the same as mine you need to push the 2-pronged plastic unit that is attached to the cable into the notched recession on the plunger housing. May not make sense what I have stated but if you are handy you will be able to deal with it. You will need both hands in there. Orvan cautioned me when re-securing the removed plastic pan to make sure the screws go into the moveable wood slat and not into the tanks. The bolts will not be an issue. Hopes this helps.
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Old 11-28-2018, 11:50 AM   #12
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Poster lives in Texas, you? North Carolina. Not too advantageous to tow it to INDIANA for CABLES 🤪
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Old 11-28-2018, 12:43 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MeepMeep View Post
Thank goodness it’s stuck open and I can use the add on blade valve for dumping for now. What kind of repair bill should I expect, as I can’t do the job myself?


Why not just keep using the end blade valve, save your money for something else. My black water tank valve still leaks after it was fixed. It doesn’t leak a lot but I hate surprises
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