Converter question in 38CK

[spock123]

The fuse does not have anything to do with how many amps is going through the wire, I'm pretty sure it's nowhere close to 25 amps. I'll see if I can find a meter to check the amps


Sent from my iPhone using Forest River Forums

[dalford]

Sure it does, go over the rating and it will burn open which is what it is designed to do. It also gives you an idea of the maximum current that is "Safe" for the circuit.

Auto batteries are charged at a relatively low current compared to what they can supply. Typically they are used to start you vehicle and are rated in Cold cranking amps. These are typically in the hundreds of amps, thus the big wire. But this is for a short period of time. The alternator in my truck can supply over 250 amps and it is really the work horse when the truck is running supplying the current to operate everything. It recharges the batteries and supplies the operating current to all the electronics along with the battery but mainly from the alternator when running.

When you turn your engine off, the battery is the sole source to operate anything electronic and that is where the amp hour rating comes in. I'm probably preaching to the choir but this whole thread started about an inverter that would not operate over a couple of hours, even when the truck is running. I contend there is another issue beside needing more batteries. See my post above about how long mine ran today with and without the truck running.

You can't just take a meter and measure the current at the connector. You need a load to draw current and in the case of the battery it will change based on how much the battery is charged. I'm sure you have used a battery charger and they typically have a meter that shows charging current.. When you first connect it it may jump to 10 amps or more but it drops rapidly and will continue to drop as the battery charges.

You probably will measure a low current at the connector if the battery is connected but that does not mean that that is all the current available. Like I said earlier a 25 foot 18 awg wire can handle 10 amps +.

Make sure you have an amp meter that can measure amps. You will need to put it in series with the circuit which will be a little difficult. Don't let your meter become a fuse. let me know what you find out..

[silverback 35ts]

You are correct that a regular deep cycle battery will work "fine" BUT no single or multiple 12 volt battery has the "APH" rating of a 6 volt dose never has never will.
This is why in a heavy demand condition most companies/people will use the 6 volt battery system.
Hope this helps and Happy camping

[silverback 35ts]

Yes you are correct most all electric systems today and wired to have the vehicle "charge" the battery while it is plugged into the trailer. but you need to understand that 1 24 series battery will not power a big fridge plugged into your truck or not for long, and i mean over 5 or 6 hours.
The alternator will not keep up with demand during the summer months, you will need a bigger battery bank and it should be 4 6 volt batteries if you are going to do a travel during the heat of summer.
Hope this helps and Happy Camping

[spock123]

On my Cedar Creek the dealer installed the cheapest 6volt batteries he could, they are 105amps. So I have 210amps with four batteries, since you can only draw the batteries down 50% I have 105amps or less to use, that doesn't last long. I plan to trade those four batteries for four Trojans.


Sent from my iPhone using Forest River Forums

[Brentf]

I have a 2016 Silverback 31RK. I have the same inverter. Dealer originally put in a group 24 Marine/deep cycle battery. If would run the fridge while towing bit sank the battery after 5 or 6 hours of battery plus trickle from my TV.

Replaced with two 225 amp 6 volt Trojans. This gives me 24 hours of run time on the residential fridge at 50% drawdown. This has worked well even pulling through the Nevada Desert in July and August. Generally after 8 hours on the road the batteries will be around 13.1-13.2 volts.

If I wanted to boondock I would need 2 more batteries and a charge source but we don't at this time. The extra weight of going to 4 batteries is a bit of a concern - these things are about 62 lbs each or 125 lbs per bank. And you then need to add a battery selector to isolate each bank if necessary (it is) and upgrade your charger, add more fusing, etc.

We love the residential fridge just hope it lasts since it isn't purpose built for an RV. But we always have ice and things stay down below 5 degrees on top.

My next incremental step would be to add 200-300 watts of solar on the roof. Between the TV and solar That would keep the batteries full during the day so you would arrive at night with full batteries and could probably eke by for 2 nights without running a generator if you get sunshine.

[spock123]

I want to add solar panels to my camper. I'll find someone to install the panels as I don't want to do it. I plan to install another bank of batteries in the belly, AGM batteries. I have a 2500 watt inverter and a 40amp battery charger. To save money I may look at just two batteries for the refrigerator. We don't boondock that much but we are going to Alaska this year so you never know about the boondocking


Sent from my iPhone using Forest River Forums

[Sterlingsilver]

Just for the record, the residential fridge draws very little power, around 80 watts. Almost any TV power feed can supply this. Any battery should do while on the road. Only issue is that it takes a 2000 watt inverter to handle the starting surge when the fridge cycles. The cycle is only a few seconds long. CC supplied a 1000 watt inverter and it was always dropping out on the road. I replaced it with the 2000 watt unit and have never had another problem.

[scott regis]

Where can I find the converter on a 2012 F.R .Searra,336 RL?

[Duckogram]

Originally Posted by scott regis

Where can I find the converter on a 2012 F.R .Searra,336 RL?

Hi Scott Regis,
Welcome to the Forest River Forum. Your converter is most likely behind your 12 volt fuses in your power panel. However, you have a much better chance of getting better or more precise answers if you post in the Sierra section rather then the Cedar Creek section. Folks there can even post pictures for you to make locating what you are looking for faster and easier. Also consider starting your own thread if you have a question off topic. You will get more attention to your question that way.

[scott regis]

Thanks

[spock123]

Originally Posted by Sterlingsilver

Just for the record, the residential fridge draws very little power, around 80 watts. Almost any TV power feed can supply this. Any battery should do while on the road. Only issue is that it takes a 2000 watt inverter to handle the starting surge when the fridge cycles. The cycle is only a few seconds long. CC supplied a 1000 watt inverter and it was always dropping out on the road. I replaced it with the 2000 watt unit and have never had another problem.

My inverter is 1000 watts that came on camper, so I need at least 2000 watts. Go figure the batteries were cheap. I have a 2500 watt inverter that I'm not using, I was planning on hooking up that inverter to another bank of batteries. I guess I could hookup two banks of batteries to one inverter. What I really need is to install solar panels on roof and DW will not let me do that, drilling holes in the roof and me do it is a no no.


Sent from my iPhone using Forest River Forums

[Mahlstedtd]

Sterlingsilver, thanks. CW is replacing my 2-12v with 4-6v batteries. If this doesn't work I may try that.

[DKRITTER]

12v deep cycle batteries tend to a little below 100 amps so if you hook 2x90's together you get 180 amps.

6v batteries tend to be a little over 200 amps so if you hook 4 of them up in series and parallel that are 215 amps you get 430 amps at 12v.

Even if you hook up 4 12's that 360 amps compared to 430.

I have 4 6v's in my 36CKTS that are hooked together and I have no issues.