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Old 03-17-2014, 10:25 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by OL Creeker View Post
Did you know there's a fail safe in the water heater? Yep. Ya can't burn the element even if there's no water in the tank, per the factory.
No I did not! My old 5th wheel had a switch on the control panel to put 110v to the water heater - you had to intentionally turn it on. My current one has it on by default, kind of. There is a switch outside at the water heater, but I usually turn it off and on with the panel breaker switch. When I picked up my unit and got it home and plugged in, I didn't know the water heater was on. I started messing with filling the water tank, etc. and I finally realized that the tank heater was on. I was wondering why it didn't burn out the element without water in there. Now I know - thanks!

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Old 03-18-2014, 08:32 AM   #22
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Could someone show me in the 'paperwork'/ Manuel where it states that electric water heater has a fail save switch if there is no water?

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Old 03-18-2014, 09:43 AM   #23
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Fail safe

While at the factory, we were told after asking why the elect switch wasn't in the coach, that suburban moved it because lookers were burning up the elements. They would turn on items just because. They went one step further and put a sensor in to prevent burning up the element in the event there was no water in the tank. One person on the forum said he had that happen to him - and it didn't burn the element.
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Old 03-18-2014, 03:25 PM   #24
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The suburban water heaters have an external switch only. The circuit breaker is not a switch and should not generally be used as one.
The next goodie you will find if you look at the wiring diagram is the Hi Limit/ECO (electric cut off) switch. This safety item has been in use for a long time. In the event the thermostat fails, this gem cuts the power to the heating element. It is designed to prevent catastrophic failure due to overheat. Since it derives it's temperature sensing from the surface of the tank, I don't think it would qualify as a fail safe to prevent element burn out. Following the hi limit/eco is the thermostat. It also derives it's temp sensing from the tank. There are no other switches, sensors or gizmos associated with the 110v side of the water heater.
Now with that being clear as day. This issue is way off topic and should end here.
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Old 03-18-2014, 03:35 PM   #25
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pavetim are you still there?
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Old 03-18-2014, 09:04 PM   #26
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Suburban water heaters have TWO switches. One, electric, external. The second, in the panel of switches above the broom closet, is the switch for the LP gas. I agree, the circuit breaker should only be used for maint purposes.
Alan, Kathy & Cooper the camping cat
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Old 03-18-2014, 09:13 PM   #27
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Not true......
My suburban has three.
One outside
Two inside.
Factory installed

Sabre owners united!
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Old 03-18-2014, 09:16 PM   #28
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Nice feature, somewhat rare?
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Old 03-20-2014, 05:35 PM   #29
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Batteries for Fridge

Hello, I would like to ask further about a bank of batteries for the fridge. We are now owners of the Columbus 320 RS. It has a residential fridge and 1500w inverter with one 12v battery. Our goal is to have fridge powered up for two days of dry camping at a time. I have read about two and four 6volt battery configurations (parallel). What are your thoughts to achieve our goal?

Thanks in advance,
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Old 03-20-2014, 05:42 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by bikendan View Post
pavetim, did you get an optional residential fridge/freezer? it would run off an inverter and requires a huge bank of batteries, if not on shore power.

if not, then your fridge/freezer is powered by either propane or 110v AC electric power.
are you saying that the dealer didn't show you how to run it on propane, during the PDI?
Didn't know they made a residential that would run on propane.
All I've heard are rv frig on either 12v/propane/110v/propane or 12v/propane or propane only.

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battery, fridge

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