fridge on battery?

[mlatter]

Originally Posted by OL Creeker

Did you know there's a fail safe in the water heater? Yep. Ya can't burn the element even if there's no water in the tank, per the factory.

No I did not! My old 5th wheel had a switch on the control panel to put 110v to the water heater - you had to intentionally turn it on. My current one has it on by default, kind of. There is a switch outside at the water heater, but I usually turn it off and on with the panel breaker switch. When I picked up my unit and got it home and plugged in, I didn't know the water heater was on. I started messing with filling the water tank, etc. and I finally realized that the tank heater was on. I was wondering why it didn't burn out the element without water in there. Now I know - thanks!

[Brother Les]

Could someone show me in the 'paperwork'/ Manuel where it states that electric water heater has a fail save switch if there is no water?

[OL Creeker]

While at the factory, we were told after asking why the elect switch wasn't in the coach, that suburban moved it because lookers were burning up the elements. They would turn on items just because. They went one step further and put a sensor in to prevent burning up the element in the event there was no water in the tank. One person on the forum said he had that happen to him - and it didn't burn the element.

[Duckogram]

The suburban water heaters have an external switch only. The circuit breaker is not a switch and should not generally be used as one.
The next goodie you will find if you look at the wiring diagram is the Hi Limit/ECO (electric cut off) switch. This safety item has been in use for a long time. In the event the thermostat fails, this gem cuts the power to the heating element. It is designed to prevent catastrophic failure due to overheat. Since it derives it's temperature sensing from the surface of the tank, I don't think it would qualify as a fail safe to prevent element burn out. Following the hi limit/eco is the thermostat. It also derives it's temp sensing from the tank. There are no other switches, sensors or gizmos associated with the 110v side of the water heater.
Now with that being clear as day. This issue is way off topic and should end here.

[fonzie]

pavetim are you still there?

[OL Creeker]

Suburban water heaters have TWO switches. One, electric, external. The second, in the panel of switches above the broom closet, is the switch for the LP gas. I agree, the circuit breaker should only be used for maint purposes.

[TURBS]

Not true......
My suburban has three.
One outside
Two inside.
Factory installed

TURBS
Sabre owners united!

[VinceU]

Nice feature, somewhat rare?

[Grateful]

Hello, I would like to ask further about a bank of batteries for the fridge. We are now owners of the Columbus 320 RS. It has a residential fridge and 1500w inverter with one 12v battery. Our goal is to have fridge powered up for two days of dry camping at a time. I have read about two and four 6volt battery configurations (parallel). What are your thoughts to achieve our goal?

Thanks in advance,
Grateful

[OldCoot]

Originally Posted by bikendan

pavetim, did you get an optional residential fridge/freezer? it would run off an inverter and requires a huge bank of batteries, if not on shore power.

if not, then your fridge/freezer is powered by either propane or 110v AC electric power.
are you saying that the dealer didn't show you how to run it on propane, during the PDI?

Didn't know they made a residential that would run on propane.
All I've heard are rv frig on either 12v/propane/110v/propane or 12v/propane or propane only.

[38FLCamper]

I do see the hi-temp cutoff temp circuit on the diagram for the water heater, but clearly in the manual right above that diagram it states the 120-V heater should never be turned on without water in the tank.

[OldCoot]

Originally Posted by 38FLCamper

I do see the hi-temp cutoff temp circuit on the diagram for the water heater, but clearly in the manual right above that diagram it states the 120-V heater should never be turned on without water in the tank.

That's a correct statement, but I thought this thread was on refrigerators.

[Duckogram]

Originally Posted by Grateful

Hello, I would like to ask further about a bank of batteries for the fridge. We are now owners of the Columbus 320 RS. It has a residential fridge and 1500w inverter with one 12v battery. Our goal is to have fridge powered up for two days of dry camping at a time. I have read about two and four 6volt battery configurations (parallel). What are your thoughts to achieve our goal?

Thanks in advance,
Grateful

The 6v deep cycle batteries have greater capacity which will result in longer usability. One 12v is insufficient so any improvement over that will be of benefit toward attaining your goal. 4 each 12v deep cycle batts in parallel should last for the time period specified but not much more. For a few bucks more you can install 4 each 6v batts. 2 batts in series to up the voltage the both banks of 2 in parallel to increase capacity. I don't know how much space is available for you so that is a consideration along with the capability of your charger.
Hope this helps.

[OL Creeker]

Absolutely! We have four 6vdc batt's, wired in series/parallel. A friend who has the same rig & set up, says he can get three days on them. Obviously, other elect usage is very judicious.

[Grateful]

Yup, just got the columbus 320 rs w residential fridge. Replaced the 1 12 v battery w 4 6v batteries (series and parallel ) and made a battery bank. It runs that residential fridge for three days. Considering solar panel for recharging. Will post picks next week as we are out loving the camper.

[OL Creeker]

What year is your rig? When we looked at the Columbus, the res fridge wasn't an option.

[Grateful]

2014 Columbus 320 RS bought out from Midway RV in MI. They do a good job getting nicely outfitted rigs on their floor. The price was so good it was worth having it transported to W. NC. The battery change was necessary as we get to boondocks from time to time.