Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 02-11-2014, 09:22 PM   #31
NELA
 
Weezer's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 3,220
We got the tripod for our new 5er. Some say it doesn't do much other than stabilizing the unit. We got ours partially because it can be locked on to the pin, at least slowing down a thief.
__________________

__________________

If age is a state of mind, and I've lost my mind, I'm AGELESS, right?
Give me 40 acres and I'll turn this rig around:
Flagstaff 5er 2014 8528 IKWS, Platinum Package, Regency Interior "Buffy"
F250 Super Duty 2013 Tuxedo Black "Biff"
Days camped 2014: 30
Weezer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-11-2014, 09:28 PM   #32
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Mass
Posts: 532
30lb Tanks

Surge Gaurd - Lots of opinions - Portable are good if you trade in the rig you can take it with you. Protable can be stolen if not secured to the power post/rig. Installed ones are not hard (I have assisted with an install) but if you are not good with Electric I would have it installed. We are going to install one but I have not installed one yet.

It opens and can hold a sponge, bar of soap, i.e. - small items. We have a 2013 and it has the sink tilt open. It is very small.

Tripods - We don't have one and will not likely get one. We have been told the big impact is on the rig when one is laying in bed and someone is walking around. With the front living we sleep in the back and so don't believe it would be much help. Also if you are getting a Air Rid Pin (Trail-Air or other brand) they don't work (or you need to change the way it works).

Differences between a TT and 5er? Yes it is different - I would not say it is harder but it is different. When backing you will find that backin up is different and the rig will take longer to get it turning but then once it starts to turn it catches up faster. It also takes getting the tow vehicle to change direction in the front to get the rear of the rig to change directions. (hard to explain).. I pull in between the house and a utility pole with only about 70' or so of clearance and adjusted to it from the 35' TT we had pretty quickly. Pulling forward it cuts to the inside of the corner closer than a TT so make your turns a little wider. (Follow an Eighteen wheeler around a town and watch them make turns)

The dealer wants to be done in an hour - we took 4-5 hours before we spent another 5 hours on thier lot moving our stuff from the old TT to the new rig. Our last new TT we also spent 3 hours on. The 5er has lots of systems like the auto levelers and such that you need to be confident in operating so you don't hurt yourself or the rig/tow vehicle.

- Appliances are pretty much the same as all campers.
- Ask about the lock for the fridge if you have a Residential Fridge.
- Make sure you have 4-6Volt batteries if you have the Residential Fridge.
- <EDIT> Check the wiring of the 4 batteries if a Residential Fridge - There is a diagram on the back of the battery box, but ours was still missing 2 wires to connect the four batteries properly. <EDIT>
- Inspect the screws holding down the gear tracks on the front slides - there have been reports of loose or missing screws.
- Review the front TV - If it is still on a lift system (last one we saw it was permanent mount) make sure the cables don't pinch when the TV is moved up/down.
- Inspect every window for loose/missing parts.
- Front heater vent in living room floor - make sure carpet is not cut too large and sticking out from the vent.
- Vinyl floor - inspect for small cuts.
- Vacuum - Make sure the bag is installed BEFORE you use it... (ours was not - doesnt hurt just makes a mess)
- Pillows on front couches - remove them and check - we had un-sown seems.
- TV/Blue Ray Player - Make sure it works - ours was wired wrong and didnt work to start.
- Door trim above the bedroom slide door - ours was not installed properly. Not a major deal but a quality issue.

Hope that helps!
__________________

__________________
Walter & Donna
2011 CC LB RAM 3500 CTD 6.7L DRW
2013 Cedar Creek 38FL
2017 Days Planned: 135

38FLCamper is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-11-2014, 09:42 PM   #33
Senior Member
 
Hutch333id's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Cochrane, AB
Posts: 759
Help and advice request - potentially buying a new 38fl

Thanks again. All great advice on things I wouldn't have necessarily known about. I shall certainly be looking out for these when we do our greatly extended walk through.
I also noticed the grey/black tank release valves appear to be back behind the rear door, adjacent to the outlet pipe. I guess this must be something new for 2014 as well?
__________________


Richard & Diane
2014 Cedar Creek 38FL
2016 F350 Lariat CC DRW
Retired Metropolitan Police (UK)
Hutch333id is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-11-2014, 09:50 PM   #34
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Mass
Posts: 532
Ah TANKS almost forgot about them... Tank handles are located due to the rear bathroom.

You have 4 tanks:
1 - Fresh Water
2x Gray Water
1 - Black Water

First the handles - Two handles located behind the off-door side door. Just under the bed-slide. The third handle is located just in-between the two wheels. Gray 1 is between the wheels and Gray 2/Black are back behind the door.

And here is the thing no one tells you... Gray #1 is for the Kitchen Sink AND the Shower. Gray #2 is for the bathroom sink and the washing machine. So you have 40 gals for the Kitchen Sink and Shower and 40 Gallons for the bathroom sink if you don't have a Washer. We purchased a bayonet mounted valve and if needed we will use that valve mounted, open both gray water valves and let the tanks equalize to gain additional capacity.

Winterize valves are located in the bedroom in a small closet door under the closet for the washer location.

We also have a regular vent in the bedroom, but this is just too high for us to reach. We purchased a vent-stik online (and most RV dealers) for about $20 that adds a small handle on the vent and a stick that we can use to open/close that back vent.
__________________
Walter & Donna
2011 CC LB RAM 3500 CTD 6.7L DRW
2013 Cedar Creek 38FL
2017 Days Planned: 135

38FLCamper is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-11-2014, 09:51 PM   #35
Senior Member
 
Ford Idaho's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Idaho
Posts: 9,840
Print out a couple of these.

RV Inspection Checklist

You fill one out and have the CFO fill one out and then double check with each other.

Ask questions about anything you did not copy the first time, if they go to fast make them slow down.

Test EVERYTHING

Got a sofa bed, set it up into a bed.

Know what every switch is for, If the PDI guy does not know stop and find someone who does know.

Have a JT&#39;s Strong Arms Fifth Wheel and Travel Trailer stabilizers from tweetys.com or something like it installed, no need to worry about where to store it.

Have the PDI guy show you where the water heater bypass valve is, write it's location down as well as the low point drains.

Winterization system, how does it work?

Make them show you even if it is just a dry run.

I suggest 4.

Search results for: 'wheel chocks'
__________________
2016 F350 6.7L LB CC Reese 28K 2014 Chaparral Lite 266sab
"Those who would give up essential Liberty, to purchase a little temporary Safety, deserve neither Liberty nor Safety." 2014 19 days camping 2015 17 days camping201620 days camping
Ford Idaho is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-11-2014, 10:05 PM   #36
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Mass
Posts: 532
I was under the impression that the JT Arms do not work with the hydraulic systems as they landing gears retract all the way, but I am not 100% sure on that????

Chocks - I had one of those cross-chocks between the wheels, but I found with the hydraulics, it spreads/shrinks the distances between the wheels too much. I was constantly having to tighten them or having trouble loosing them up so I have bought some heavy duty rubber chocks from harbor frieght and they work great!

Make sure they show you how to hook-up and un-hook...

0. Make sure wheels are chocked on both sides.
1. Set 5th wheel hitch for hook-up
2. Set hight of pin box slightly below the height of the 5th wheel hitch
3. Back in and lock into hitch with pin. Verify lock.
4. Retract front landing gear slightly ( I leave them just touching ) and complete a pull test - Put tow vehicle in drive, hold camper brakes on, touch accelerator to test to ensure the hitch is locked in.
5. Retract all landing gear.
6. Remove chocks


1. Chock wheels
2. Lower front landing gear lifting just until the weight is relieved on the truck.
3. Unlock hitch
4. Pull forward until pin is off hitch
5. Pull power ambilical and break-a-way cord
6. Pull tow vehicle away
7. Hit autolevel


Chocks are critical from my experiences and from what I have been told... Two groups of people:
1. Those that have dropped their 5er on their tow vehicle.
2. Those that will drop their 5er on their tow vehicle.

Following the above and using a hook-up/unhook check lists I hope to stay in group #2 for a very long time. Also - you will get people that want to talk while you setup/break down - don't be afraid to ask them to wait until you are done, or start your check list over. Group #1 frequently is cause by distractions.
__________________
Walter & Donna
2011 CC LB RAM 3500 CTD 6.7L DRW
2013 Cedar Creek 38FL
2017 Days Planned: 135

38FLCamper is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-11-2014, 10:07 PM   #37
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Mass
Posts: 532
Low point drains are located just front of the door-side (curb-side) door - ours are painted the same color of the rig, but have also seen rigs with them just left red/blue.
__________________
Walter & Donna
2011 CC LB RAM 3500 CTD 6.7L DRW
2013 Cedar Creek 38FL
2017 Days Planned: 135

38FLCamper is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-12-2014, 09:49 PM   #38
Senior Member
 
Hutch333id's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Cochrane, AB
Posts: 759
Gentlemen,

I cannot begin thank you enough for the tips, advice and links you have provided. Armed with this information we shall certainly be spending more than an hour or two doing our walk through, receiving hitch/un-hitch instruction and discovering what every button does.

Now I just need the weather to improve so we can get away in the rig. However, I seriously doubt that will be before Easter at the very earliest. We're booked for a long run to Seattle in late June but hopefully I can get down to Montana before that. The dealer phoned me earlier asking what truck I had to pull the trailer with - he's sorting the hitch.

Thanks again, your input is invaluable.
__________________


Richard & Diane
2014 Cedar Creek 38FL
2016 F350 Lariat CC DRW
Retired Metropolitan Police (UK)
Hutch333id is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-13-2014, 05:49 AM   #39
Senior Member
 
Witch Doctor's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Clarksville Va.
Posts: 7,632
The answer to JTstrongarms compared to tri-pods. You can install them with your hyd landing system. They have a pad called big foot that allows it. Look at the LCI web site. Also wheel chocks, between the wheels help alot. Tri-pods for the pin will only help the bedroom area not the whole unit. IMO they are not worth the money compared to the JT's which lippard now owns also. But the correct pad has to be installed. If you have a 6 point system, you shouldn't need them anyway. If you still have unacceptable movement then you can add them later. Movement to me is not the same as to others, you will still have some no matter what. After all it is a trailer not a house on a foundation. Have the right pad installed just incase you decide you want to add them at a later point.
__________________
Rockwood #8289 WS 2012
F250 6.0 / Husky 16k
With 4 point leveling system
Witch Doctor is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-15-2014, 08:08 AM   #40
Member
 
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 66
Congratulations!
We have a 33' 5er, but some of my experiences may be of some help to you.

#1 - Cedar Creek/Forest River warranty service can not be overstated. They made everything perfect and then some ( Great Service from Cedar Creek )

One of the things we asked the factory to add when it was being repaired was a TrailAir pin box. I'm sure many others aren't bothered by it, but I find the natural up-and-down of a trailer caused me stress/concern which made me get tired (...irritable according to the DW...) after 6 hours or so. Now, I've gone 10+ hours before getting as tired.

Tanks - ours were mislabeled... Our dealer found out the hard way when he opened the 'gray' tank onto the ground at the shop....

Walkthrough - this was our first 5er (first camper too) so we let the dealer give us a whirlwind 2 hour tour. It wasn't enough. Like the others said, plan for more.

Pin Tripod - I weigh 200#'s (~90 kg) so my wife notices me walking around while she's on the bed. Some other kind campers with stabilizing systems let us walk around in their units. We found the leg stabilizing systems to be consistently superior to the tripods. The systems made in China (sold in Camping World and other such stores) seemed less robust so I ordered the SteadyFast system. You can find it at SteadyFast: 5th Wheel and RV Travel Trailer Stabilizer System . It took me an afternoon to install it myself - taking it very slow and easy. It makes an amazing difference.

TT vs. 5er - I've only towed a TT a couple times. The biggest difference is the height and frontal area. Fuel consumption is strongly influenced by your speed and wind direction. Height - measure your unit so you know what you can go under.

I didn't see it mentioned here but one thing I would definitely check before pulling out is tire date and pressure. I've had 2 sets of tires go bad - the first required $3k+ of repairs; the second I caught before the tire blew out. Several tire dealers have confirmed that trailer tires have a shelf life of 3-5 years - whether they are ever installed or not. With my experience and in the heat of Texas, I now change them at 3 years. You will find it as a 4 digit number of each tire in the format WWYY - week manufactured and the year. "New Trailer" does NOT equal new tires - my brand new 2010 unit had tires manufactured in 2008. And keep them inflated properly; low pressure equals heats which equals delamination which equals a blown tire.


Having been to the factory and met the people building these units, they are diligent and caring people who want to provide you with a quality product that you will enjoy for many years. Like us, they are people and subject to missing something along the way - there is a whole lot to one of these units. No matter how thoroughly you go through a checklist and look at things during delivery, there are somethings you just won't find until you're out on the road. Try to take it in stride and work with your dealer when you get back. If it's something that needs to go back to the factory, have confidence that you will be well taken care of.
__________________

__________________
Keith & Liz
2010 SilverBack 33L
2009 F-250
kablair is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by




ForestRiverForums.com is not in any way associated with Forest River, Inc. or its associated RV manufacturing divisions.


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 04:20 AM.