Inherent Cedar Creek problems??

[Hutch333id]

Many Cedar Creeks appear to suffer from leaky drain valves on their grey and black tanks. Even when apparently closed, residual water still leaks out of the tanks. The dealer changed all of mine which cured the black tank but I still get some from the grey tanks. To overcome this I use a twist on valve with an additional sliding seal that attaches to the sewer outlet on the trailer.

I also had problems with the shower. There was water escaping from the shower which I eventually traced to poor sealant in the corners inside the sliding shower door rails. While tracking this issue I also found a hairline crack in the floor of the shower which is apparently a common problem caused by the installation process for the prefabricated glass fibre shower floors. This was repaired by a company dealing direct with the dealer and FR. I guess it was heat treated because I cannot see any sign of repair whatsoever.

Many, myself included (now), are suffering from horrendous fading of the front cap. I recently received an email from CC (Forest River) stating they were paying out $750 as a one off payment and NC replacement decals with a signed waiver absolving them of any further claims for this deficiency. At the same time I as asked about the rear cap on my unit which, at this point in time, remains in good condition.

For me, the auto levelling has worked perfectly until the voltage drops and triggers the mini breakers. Make sure the dealer shows you where these are located and how to re-set them.

I've had a motor replaced on one of the front electric slides but this was covered by the extended warranty. My only other concern is a leaking seal on one of the windows that has allowed condensation to form between the panes of glass to a point where the window is now entirely fogged up. I've asked the dealer but they tell me it isn't a warranty concern so I'm now trying to get an answer from Forest River.

My tailer has been with us now for three seasons and Ive had no problems with the tires (Goodyear 614).

So far, I am happy with the rig, just a few small issues.

[GOTTOYS]

Originally Posted by Hutch333id

Many Cedar Creeks appear to suffer from leaky drain valves on their grey and black tanks. Even when apparently closed, residual water still leaks out of the tanks. The dealer changed all of mine which cured the black tank but I still get some from the grey tanks. To overcome this I use a twist on valve with an additional sliding seal that attaches to the sewer outlet on the trailer.

I also had problems with the shower. There was water escaping from the shower which I eventually traced to poor sealant in the corners inside the sliding shower door rails. While tracking this issue I also found a hairline crack in the floor of the shower which is apparently a common problem caused by the installation process for the prefabricated glass fibre shower floors. This was repaired by a company dealing direct with the dealer and FR. I guess it was heat treated because I cannot see any sign of repair whatsoever.

Many, myself included (now), are suffering from horrendous fading of the front cap. I recently received an email from CC (Forest River) stating they were paying out $750 as a one off payment and NC replacement decals with a signed waiver absolving them of any further claims for this deficiency. At the same time I as asked about the rear cap on my unit which, at this point in time, remains in good condition.

For me, the auto levelling has worked perfectly until the voltage drops and triggers the mini breakers. Make sure the dealer shows you where these are located and how to re-set them.

I've had a motor replaced on one of the front electric slides but this was covered by the extended warranty. My only other concern is a leaking seal on one of the windows that has allowed condensation to form between the panes of glass to a point where the window is now entirely fogged up. I've asked the dealer but they tell me it isn't a warranty concern so I'm now trying to get an answer from Forest River.

My tailer has been with us now for three seasons and Ive had no problems with the tires (Goodyear 614).

So far, I am happy with the rig, just a few small issues.

That twist on valve should be standard equipment. I added one as soon as I left the dealership. (Bought it online and brought it with me). Heartland gave me $1500 and new decals to paint my last rig's front cap. it was hard to find someone to do it for that. Try some big truck/bus bodyshops. 2 years later the rear cap went sour. I paid to paint that. ($1,050.) Not looking forward to it but I will do the same to this one if need be. F.R. said they switched to a different gel coat in 2015 and it shouldn't fade...we'll see. I have the cheaper Westlake G tires..I think I'm just going to get a set of Sailun 17.5s and be done with it. They have an excellent reputation and a "H" load rating. Thanks for your reply..

[checkmate99]

Originally Posted by rattleNsmoke

On my 2010 34SATS, I had to replace the rivets that attach the scissor arms to the steps. I damn near killed myself when a rivet sheared off while I was headed down. Luckily I wasn't carrying anything heavy (like a case of vino). Personally, I'd drill them out and replace with 5/16" grade 8 bolts, stainless washers and ny-lock nuts.
Happy camping.....

Good advice for every TT and 5th wheel owner! Had the same experience with my TT this past spring.

[Ramblin Recks]

Originally Posted by wire1946

I had put joy rider shocks on my FL 38 last year .and as I was going to trade it in a new 1 both plates on the shock brock going down # 95 will never put anything like that on my rv again

Do you have a Picture of what broke? I'm considering installing Joy Ryder's.

Thanks


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[Jim in Halifax]

Originally Posted by Mahlstedtd

Had the front lamp fixture hanging by wires also. Loctite now keeps it tight. One over table fell off and broke.

On our CC29RE I also used the loctite....I also use two spring loaded wood clamps at top at joint when traveling as a precaution....J

[wire1946]

Hi recks
no I didn't take any pics but the plate that that came with the joy shocks is what broke .the one that was u bolted to the 3" axles just from wear or the plate was to soft and was working

[Ramblin Recks]

Originally Posted by wire1946

Hi recks
no I didn't take any pics but the plate that that came with the joy shocks is what broke .the one that was u bolted to the 3" axles just from wear or the plate was to soft and was working

Ok, thank you for the info ...


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[steelpony5555]

I have had my rig for a year now and only had a few minor issues. One being Yes, the lights. But locktite fixed that issue. Another was the rear lower metal I guess you would call it a fender from the tires to the rear of the trailer. The little brace holding it broke off while traveling and the flapping caused the rear screw to rip out. They put bolts on it instead of screws and seems pretty solid now. But I will add a couple more braces later. The tires didn't even come off the lot with me. Part of my buy deal was they changed my new tires from my old rig to the Creek. Will not travel on trailer tires. Also the glass in the overhead cabinets came loose. Evidently the silicone caulk they use was not very good. I put them back with good stuff. And the only other problem is my black tank dump pull is really really stiff. Also leaks a little. Yes I have a valve on the end of the dump but a brand new trailer should not leak at all. Probably something to do with it being stiff. But they are gonna fix that too. She has a few thousand miles on her and that is the only problems I have had in the past year.

[Mahlstedtd]

My valve also leaks slightly. What type of valve did you install?

[steelpony5555]

It's just one of those clear elbows that screws on to the dump ....sticks out a little...looking for a shorter one I seen.......Camping World has them ..even seen them at Walmart.....but eliminate s getting yuck on your shoes...lol

[Jim in Halifax]

Originally Posted by steelpony5555

I have had my rig for a year now and only had a few minor issues. One being Yes, the lights. But locktite fixed that issue. Another was the rear lower metal I guess you would call it a fender from the tires to the rear of the trailer. The little brace holding it broke off while traveling and the flapping caused the rear screw to rip out. They put bolts on it instead of screws and seems pretty solid now. But I will add a couple more braces later. The tires didn't even come off the lot with me. Part of my buy deal was they changed my new tires from my old rig to the Creek. Will not travel on trailer tires. Also the glass in the overhead cabinets came loose. Evidently the silicone caulk they use was not very good. I put them back with good stuff. And the only other problem is my black tank dump pull is really really stiff. Also leaks a little. Yes I have a valve on the end of the dump but a brand new trailer should not leak at all. Probably something to do with it being stiff. But they are gonna fix that too. She has a few thousand miles on her and that is the only problems I have had in the past year.

I replaced all the screws on each side with SS bolts and nuts
I took pieces of 1/2" starafoam packing material and jamed it up between the lower metal grey trim and the metal frame that runs along the side....No more wobble/flapping of the sides
My '14CC black lever has been stiff since day one. FR had the bath and kitchen grey tanks labeled backwards
Painted all the underneath frame etc with black rust paint and then sprayed rubberized undercoating over that..12 lg cans so far
Treated all rubber gaskets etc...Very Important as they will dry out and crack!!!!
Retightened all screws...1/4 to a full turn on sliders

All for preventative maintenance!!!!

[Cedar Bunkin]

Best piece advice my father gave me when I bought my 1st is "All rv's suck!!" Not necessarily the truth but they certainly they have some shortcomings. when your basically traveling your house down the road at 70mph things are bound to shift and move. No question they could do some things better but if they did then what would we have to fix!!!! His advice really helps me keep a level head when something breaks.

More minor issues with my 2014 CC 36B4 (yes prolly one of the last bunkhouses CC made) as well as my father's 2015 38FL. Ofcourse we were hit by the faded front and rear cap issues like many of you but were fortunate enough that CC is replacing both front and rear even though we are slightly outta warranty. In my humble opinion preventative maintenance is key (maintaining wheels,bearings, roof, rechalking, regularly inspecting everything, etc) to ensure a long life for these units. And I have no doubt some may have purchased a "lemon" and I really feel for you. Hopefully things will eventually be corrected for you. Good luck to all!!!

[florabama]

The best thing you can do for your RV is to store it under cover. I put up a 18x36 metal carport which has paid for itself and then some.

[GOTTOYS]

Originally Posted by florabama

The best thing you can do for your RV is to store it under cover. I put up a 18x36 metal carport which has paid for itself and then some.

Wish we could but we live in a RV park 4 months out of the year on a rented lot. We change parks every couple years. It won't fit in our driveway and sits at a storage facility when not in use the rest of the year...Wish we had the room and the luxury of a roof over our roof, but it's just not in the cards..

[Briant Olson]

Originally Posted by Hutch333id

Many Cedar Creeks appear to suffer from leaky drain valves on their grey and black tanks. Even when apparently closed, residual water still leaks out of the tanks. The dealer changed all of mine which cured the black tank but I still get some from the grey tanks. To overcome this I use a twist on valve with an additional sliding seal that attaches to the sewer outlet on the trailer.

I also had problems with the shower. There was water escaping from the shower which I eventually traced to poor sealant in the corners inside the sliding shower door rails. While tracking this issue I also found a hairline crack in the floor of the shower which is apparently a common problem caused by the installation process for the prefabricated glass fibre shower floors. This was repaired by a company dealing direct with the dealer and FR. I guess it was heat treated because I cannot see any sign of repair whatsoever.

Many, myself included (now), are suffering from horrendous fading of the front cap. I recently received an email from CC (Forest River) stating they were paying out $750 as a one off payment and NC replacement decals with a signed waiver absolving them of any further claims for this deficiency. At the same time I as asked about the rear cap on my unit which, at this point in time, remains in good condition.

For me, the auto levelling has worked perfectly until the voltage drops and triggers the mini breakers. Make sure the dealer shows you where these are located and how to re-set them.

I've had a motor replaced on one of the front electric slides but this was covered by the extended warranty. My only other concern is a leaking seal on one of the windows that has allowed condensation to form between the panes of glass to a point where the window is now entirely fogged up. I've asked the dealer but they tell me it isn't a warranty concern so I'm now trying to get an answer from Forest River.

My tailer has been with us now for three seasons and Ive had no problems with the tires (Goodyear 614).

So far, I am happy with the rig, just a few small issues.

We had our front cap replaced. Now our rear cap has faded. How do we apply for the $750.00 to have it repaired too ?

[Jim in Halifax]

Originally Posted by Briant Olson

We had our front cap replaced. Now our rear cap has faded. How do we apply for the $750.00 to have it repaired too ?

Hi Briant:
I had three options from CC (1) return to CC and have cap replaced (2) accept $$ and sign waiver and (3) have front repainted and clear coated thru the dealer.....I took option #3 for our 2014 29RE....Looks good and Macco said I will never have any problems down the road...J

[Briant Olson]

Originally Posted by Jim in Halifax

Hi Briant:
I had three options from CC (1) return to CC and have cap replaced (2) accept $$ and sign waiver and (3) have front repainted and clear coated thru the dealer.....I took option #3 for our 2014 29RE....Looks good and Macco said I will never have any problems down the road...J

Thanks Jim.
Would you know who I could contact at CC to request option # 2 ? my email is brianpatolson@gmail.com if you wanted to talk to me directly. I have heard about this offer of $750.00 (I need my rear cap repaired), but am uncertain who to contact to make the request. Much appreciated.

[Hutch333id]

I emailed dldavis@forestriverinc.com after obtaining her contact info from someone else on here. She was very good about arranging to get me booked in to the factory and then again changing that to have my rig repaired at Amish Family RV when I later found the rear cap to be fading.

She did offer $750 and sign a waiver - which translates to over $1000 Cdn but I doubt I could get both fixed for that price in Canada. We opted to attend Indiana and build it in to our road trip to Ontario to see our daughter this summer.

[Jim in Halifax]

Originally Posted by Briant Olson

Thanks Jim.
Would you know who I could contact at CC to request option # 2 ? my email is brianpatolson@gmail.com if you wanted to talk to me directly. I have heard about this offer of $750.00 (I need my rear cap repaired), but am uncertain who to contact to make the request. Much appreciated.

Had a lap top problem and lost all my e mail info...sorry..(CC file/folder)...Jim

[dkelly]

Originally Posted by Jim in Halifax

Same thing happened to ours on our CC29RE over kitchen table....Put locktight on threads and now have small spring type Wood clamps on joint at ceiling just in case!!!!

I had the same problem with mine. I drilled and tapped the bracket to accept a set screw. Hasn't been a problem since.