Is slide out gear bad?

[arpipeliner]

On one of my slides the gear pack by the hyd cylinder will jump or skip 3 or four times each way allowing the slide to get out time. Have had tech adjust and I just did it too.

There are no broken teeth on gear or rail and the slide moves freely. I watched while DW worked the switch. It doesn't do it at the same spot. Normally 6" to 1' from where the slide sets on in and out.

Thinking about buying another gear pack to see if it would fix it. Just thought if anyone had any ideas. It's a 2010 silverback 29RE.

[PhoneDude 8289]

You could take the gear pack off and check it out before you order another. Pretty easy job but you do need to jack up the slide just enough to take the pressure off the gear pack so you can remove the two bolts holding it. While you have it off count the teeth, should you ever need one you will need to know the number of teeth on the gear, they have several with different counts. About a 15 minute job, 20 if you put the gear pack right back on. Be sure all is lubed up well.

[Herk7769]

This may not be a gear pack. There is a shear pin that connects the two sides of the slide to keep it in time. If a shear bolt breaks, it may be that rust and the broken stub could be the only things holding the two racks in time.

[PhoneDude 8289]

Herk is correct, could be a shear pin, there is one at each gear pack. One will have to be removed anyway when and if you pull a gear pack. The head of the shear pin can be twisted with a wrench to see if it is solid thru the shaft, ck both.

[arpipeliner]

No broke gears or teeth on the rail. Swapped the gear packs to just check if there is any wear.

It still jumps when the slide is 6" to 12" from the wall. Noticed the tubing is rising up in that time as the slide is getting in the camper. The top part has a bow in it that the other does not.

Would a strap of metal to strengthen the tubing work. This is the first camper I had with slides.

The is the problem slide.



The opposing slide with no issues.

I have timed the slide with RV tech but they didn't stay very long and once the slide start out far enough the weight of the slide keeps it in the gears fine. Any suggestions? Thanks.


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[Herk7769]

Is your slideout overloaded?

Mine will do that when I put too much wine in the dinette.
It can be a lot of weight to lift.

[arpipeliner]

It the kitchen side on a 29 RE. The cabinets above the recliners are pretty much empty. Kids put their things in when there. The one by the stove has spices. Frig is normal most beer kept outside in ice chest.

I think one of the back door cabinet was open when I first had the trouble. Rookie not knowing to check and see if they were open. Do now. Believe this is some damage from that.

Got some flat bar from work out of scrap and see if I can make something to not allow it to flex up.

Seen some great ideas and mods on the forum.


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[Herk7769]

Originally Posted by arpipeliner

It the kitchen side on a 29 RE. The cabinets above the recliners are pretty much empty. Kids put their things in when there. The one by the stove has spices. Frig is normal most beer kept outside in ice chest.

I think one of the back door cabinet was open when I first had the trouble. Rookie not knowing to check and see if they were open. Do now. Believe this is some damage from that.

Got some flat bar from work out of scrap and see if I can make something to not allow it to flex up.

Seen some great ideas and mods on the forum.


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I wish I knew more about slide outs, but yes, it is possible the slide mechanism could have been damaged. Was the door damaged?

Here is are some manuals that may help.

[Ford Idaho]

Originally Posted by arpipeliner

No broke gears or teeth on the rail. Swapped the gear packs to just check if there is any wear.

It still jumps when the slide is 6" to 12" from the wall. Noticed the tubing is rising up in that time as the slide is getting in the camper. The top part has a bow in it that the other does not.

Would a strap of metal to strengthen the tubing work. This is the first camper I had with slides. Attachment 56550

The is the problem slide.

Attachment 56551

The opposing slide with no issues.

I have timed the slide with RV tech but they didn't stay very long and once the slide start out far enough the weight of the slide keeps it in the gears fine. Any suggestions? Thanks.


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If you are asking about the outside tube you can reinforce it by wrapping a band around the edge and then weld it.

It would be like this.
If you note the edge of the hitch in beefed up with welded steel to keep it from splitting or bending

[arpipeliner]

Yes the hinges on the cabinet door were broke. Was thinking like ford Idaho was showing. Thanks for the input


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[OldCoot]

Would closely examine the track itself for something lodged in between a couple of teeth. Don't believe the channel needs any reinforcement unless you see evidence of it being belled out on the end.

[arpipeliner]

I could see of the top the square tubing rise up about 1/8 of inch plus the slight bow around there. Got it flat with a c clamp yesterday but it didn't stay flat.

It's welded to the frame and would a pain to remove and weld a new one on.

Was thinking about a strap or c channel would be great if I could find the it. Or maybe a flat bar just on the top that would fit in the gap between frame and the tubing. Not sure if it would keep it from jumping.


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[Herk7769]

Did you read the Lippert "Skipping teeth" produce alert?

[Ford Idaho]

Originally Posted by Herk7769

Did you read the Lippert "Skipping teeth" produce alert?

Produce??????

Lippert has produce with teeth.....RUNNNnnnnnnn!

[VinceU]

Originally Posted by arpipeliner

I could see of the top the square tubing rise up about 1/8 of inch plus the slight bow around there. Got it flat with a c clamp yesterday but it didn't stay flat.

It's welded to the frame and would a pain to remove and weld a new one on.

Was thinking about a strap or c channel would be great if I could find the it. Or maybe a flat bar just on the top that would fit in the gap between frame and the tubing. Not sure if it would keep it from jumping.


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A channel or T section would add a multiplied amount of strength compared to just flarbar. If its dipping 1/8" with load at the gulley would be more than enough for the pinion gear to "skip".

[Herk7769]

Originally Posted by Ford Idaho

Produce??????

Lippert has produce with teeth.....RUNNNnnnnnnn!

Grrrr. iPhone autocorrect.
Product is what the Captain meant to say.

[OldCoot]

Herk, I think a 16 ga strip the entire length between the wear strip and the channel with a 5/16" hole in it to hold it in place would be better than a 5/16" flat washer at the end.

[VinceU]

Anyone check the channel with a straight edge or level for trueness?

[arpipeliner]

Thank u herk. Cannot believe I have spent over $300 with tv techs and a washer laying inside my compartment fixed. Probably wrap it later on if it ever messes up again.

Wished I had checked to moved satellite receiver from the shelf. Know need to reattach the molding back on nice and tight.

Thanks again. Been close to two years and fixed and done.


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[Herk7769]

Happy I could help.
Herk