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Old 10-13-2016, 08:05 PM   #1
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Location: Mid-Mich
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level up

Today I entered a site, got unhooked and started the auto level. It went all the way down, and bottomed out, but not low enough to set the gyro, or whatever its called, so it would not auto level. This is just because of the site. So I leveled it up manually. My question is could I have made sure the rear jacks were up, and raised the front way up, to possibly be able to auto level? Thanks

2008 Dodge 3500 Dually, Cummins. Amsoil Bypass Oil Filter, 36 Gal aux fuel tank. Mag Hytec Trans pan. Mag Hytec Diff Pan. 6 speed autostick. 3:73, Timbrens, Smarty JR. Equipped.
2016 Cedar Creek 38FB2

2016 Camping Days=38
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Old 10-13-2016, 10:26 PM   #2
Join Date: Nov 2014
Posts: 98
The way I understand it is when using auto level the front of the trailer has to drop 2-4 degrees below level before it will function correctly. If you have backed down into a site and can't obtain the required drop it into auto level. At that point you just manually set up. Your computer will let you know when it's close. Also auto retract won't work if it won't auto level. I carry extra leveling pads for when the site isn't level and use them under the high side jacks to prevent overextension of the jacks and possibly tripping the circuit NB breakers.

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Old 10-13-2016, 10:31 PM   #3
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Make sure you start the auto level process with the front higher than the back. That is what the manual says. I think the first movement is the front down.

If you can't get the front higher than the back I don't think you could ever get level.
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Old 10-13-2016, 10:37 PM   #4
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Posts: 9
Auto Level Bottoming Out

I had a similar problem with my previous 5th wheel, a Bay Hill 320RS. I was attempting to level using the Auto Level system, exactly the same system on our 2017 Cedar Creek Hathaway Edition 5th wheel. In disconnecting the trailer from our tow vehicle, the site's slope put the trailer's nose at a sharp down angle. Once disconnected, this is where the auto leveling problem began.

The Bay Hill's front jacks retracted as far as possible and started making a grinding sound. Not good. I got a flashing error message on the LED display. I turned the auto leveling system off and did nothing else for about 5 minutes. When I turned the leveling system back on, I manually raised the trailer's nose up to what looked like a fairly level position by eyeballing it. Then I engaged the auto leveling procedure and the trailer leveled itself quickly and accurately. The trailer's drivers side wheels were off the ground...but the trailer was level.

You probably could have retracted the rear jacks, but in my experience it really doesn't matter as long as the system is working normally. The rear jacks and middle jacks make minute adjustments as necessary. The secret is to get the RV as visually level as possible to get a successful auto leveling experience.

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Old 10-13-2016, 10:58 PM   #5
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Right from the manual. First move is front down. Just make sure front is higher than level...

Auto Level
NOTE: Prior to unhitching from the tow vehicle, ensure unit is parked on a level surface and chock the tires of the unit.
1. After unhitching from tow vehicle press "AUTO LEVEL" (Fig. 1F).
NOTE: Pressing any button during an Auto Level sequence will abort the auto leveling cycle.
NOTE: In order for hitch recognition feature to function, the auto level sequence MUST be started with the front of the unit above level.
Auto Level Sequence
1. Front landing gear retract, lowering the front of the unit below level, stopping, then lifting the front end to level the unit front to back.
2. The left side leveling jack(s) extend and raise the roadside of the unit.
3. The right side leveling jack(s) extend and raise the curbside of the unit, beginning side to side leveling.
4. The front landing gear extend to complete the leveling cycle.
NOTE: Additional left to right or front to back leveling may occur if the controller deems necessary.
NOTE: If the auto level sequence does not happen as stated above, check to ensure proper manual function
in all zones.
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"If you don't know where you are going, any road will get you there."
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Old 10-14-2016, 12:15 AM   #6
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KenInCA...another former Bay Hill owner that has moved UP to a Cedar Creek!!!
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Old 10-14-2016, 12:07 PM   #7
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Former Bay Hill owner

Hey Keith...Yep, we moved from the Bay Hill to the Cedar Creek. Visually the Bay Hill was very appealing both inside and outside the RV. Sadly, however, numerous quality control issues plagued the trailer and doomed its ownership for us. Lack of quality control and serious design flaws plagued the Bay Hill line as well as other EverGreen trailers. For us, all the slide outs had to be repaired. Lippert, the maker of the slide out movement mechanisms, had indicated to our service provider and to us that EverGreen's kitchen slide design was far too heavy for the unit to move in and out efficiently. In addition, we had three fresh water tanks installed over the course of our owning the trailer, all because of structural flaws in the Bay Hill's framing and shoddy repair and installation at the original selling dealership (Best RV in Turlock, California).

Hopefully, we have "moved up" in buying the Cedar Creek. We have taken it out once since we bought it a few weeks ago and it performed flawlessly. All in all, it's a very comfortable and stylish RV and has drawn several positive comments.

Ken & Lucy

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