Limitations of 6 point level up system

Doug Currie · 03-17-2016, 09:30 PM

Does anyone know how far off level left to right is maximum for system. Perhaps in inches or degrees

VinceU · 03-17-2016, 10:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Doug Currie

Does anyone know how far off level left to right is maximum for system. Perhaps in inches or degrees

No maximum, just your comfort level and reasonable level for your onboard equipment stove top, w/d etc. I make adjustments when r/l reaches .3 degrees. At that point doors and reefer will move open or close w/o help.

Doug Currie · 03-18-2016, 06:34 AM

I'm sorry I should have worded my question better. I'm new to the Lippert 6 point leveling system. If my rig is 2 inches out from left to right should I be concerned about driving the low side up on blocks or will the self leveling handle that. Let's say I'm 4 inches out? I'm sure there is a recommended limitation here.

TURBS · 03-18-2016, 06:40 AM

I'd get close to level by driving on planks more the 2" would require a plank imo

2015 Columbus 320RS
2008 2500HD Duramax
2015 nights camped "34"

Justice12t · 03-18-2016, 06:54 AM

I know with the 4 point auto level the wheel should never come off the ground. I assume that would be the same for the 6 point, only difference is a bigger/heavier unit. I would agree with TURBS get it as level as possible first then deploy.

You do the rough work and it fine tunes...

Doug Currie · 03-18-2016, 07:10 AM

I just remember reading somewhere the maximum is 6 degrees out. However if my right angle math is correct that would be anything less than 9 inches. That's a long way out!

Jim34RL · 03-18-2016, 07:11 AM

With the Lippert 6 point level up system, you can lift the wheels off the ground. I was at the F.R.O.G. rally last year and had to change out a defective AL wheel. The Cedar Creek Tex told me to use the 6 point level up to lift the tire off the ground. He told to make sure that hydraulic struts had support pads under them,since we were on grass.
I had my dealer service the brakes and grease the wheel bearings. They used the level up system to supper the trailer and to remove them. This is one of the reason I. Purchase the level up system.

Get the trailer close to level and than hit the auto level system and the system will level the camper.

Stevemc · 03-18-2016, 12:51 PM

I haven't used our level up system a lot yet but it is my understanding that you don't want to overextend the hydraulic rams so I worry about putting boards under the low side feet more than I do about the wheels coming off the ground.

Jim34RL · 03-18-2016, 02:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stevemc

I haven't used our level up system a lot yet but it is my understanding that you don't want to overextend the hydraulic rams so I worry about putting boards under the low side feet more than I do about the wheels coming off the ground.

I have 4-4X4 12" cedar post that fit under the front legs. These are used when we drop the trailer and un-hitch the truck. I than have two packages(10 each) of the plastic leggo style pads for the four hydraulic strut in back. I will than stack anywhere between 2 and 5 pads with 5 pads being the max under each hydraulic struts. This has always been enough to support the cylinders pads and keep the cylinders from extending to much.

I have ditched the long wheel boards as being not applicable with the 6-point level up system. I still use them when the trailer is in storage but only the front struts are down than.

BandJCarm · 03-18-2016, 02:30 PM

Exactly what is the size/circumference of the feet........what is the exact footprint size?

Stevemc · 03-18-2016, 02:43 PM

I think mine are about 9 1/2" diameter.

jtstromsburg · 03-18-2016, 02:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Justice12t

I know with the 4 point auto level the wheel should never come off the ground. I assume that would be the same for the 6 point, only difference is a bigger/heavier unit. I would agree with TURBS get it as level as possible first then deploy.

You do the rough work and it fine tunes...

Just curious as it's happened to me. Does paperwork say not to lift tires off the ground or just something you've heard? If agree it's best to get somewhat close, but I've grown lazy and just set pads under jacks and hit the magic button. Works great and gets very solid.

Doug Currie · 03-18-2016, 03:52 PM

All I can see in the instructions is you should start "reasonably level" No idea what reasonable is. I also assume that would be side to side. Front to back should make no difference as long as you don't over stroke or under stoke a ram. That's where you need to add more pads under the ram feet. I guess until someone can tell me different I'm gonna assume reasonably level is anything under 4 inches side to side. I would think at 4 inches the tires are about to clear the ground.

Salt Shaker · 03-18-2016, 09:41 PM

I use 2x12 cut to 12 inches to make 12"x12" that I slide under mine on softer ground. On concrete and/ or gravel I just use the feet. It's been a while but if memory serves you don't want to have the wheels off the ground for an extended period of time and it will launch them. I've never gave it much thought. I pull in or back in and unhook and the hit auto level...I love it. One thing I did was go through the reset process and I've never had an issue.

dalford · 03-18-2016, 10:32 PM

I have used my 6 point level system and have never worried about if the camping spot was level enough before starting the process. The system will tell you if left to right to has to much angle and abort the process. In this case add some shims under the appropriate side or just do, as I have, a manual level. I have also been wheels up on one side in a spot that was really sloped side to side.

Funny thing is before the auto level system I used to drive on boards and would get close enough even if half a bubble out of plumb. Now, I have to be 0.0 degrees level front to back, left to right. It really isn't that critical but now that we have computers we have to make it perfect, close enough just is not good enough anymore...LOL

Hutch333id · 03-18-2016, 11:45 PM

Love the auto level. After unhooking, hit the auto level and let it do its thing while I connect the power supply or water, etc.

dalford · 03-25-2016, 11:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jim34RL

With the Lippert 6 point level up system, you can lift the wheels off the ground. I was at the F.R.O.G. rally last year and had to change out a defective AL wheel. The Cedar Creek Tex told me to use the 6 point level up to lift the tire off the ground. He told to make sure that hydraulic struts had support pads under them,since we were on grass.
I had my dealer service the brakes and grease the wheel bearings. They used the level up system to supper the trailer and to remove them. This is one of the reason I. Purchase the level up system.

Get the trailer close to level and than hit the auto level system and the system will level the camper.

Right from the Lippert Manual, See step 7 for changing tires...

CTGREG · 04-06-2016, 07:08 PM

I have cut 2 x 10 pressure treated lumber into 10" x 10" x 2" (which is really 1 1/2 " thick, but whatever.)

I have a plastic tote that holds 12 of these blocks. I put about 4 blocks under each of the front rams. I then put at least one block under each of the four remaining rams. I then use the plastic "lego" type blocks on top of each of the four rear blocks.

I figure most of the force will be on the front legs, so I did not want to use plastic under the front rams. I have three bundles of the plastic blocks so I will use at least four of the plastic blocks under each of the rear rams.

After I do this, I just let the auto level do its thing. I figure that the less amount of distance the rams have to travel to level, the better. This also makes for a more stable footprint.

Just my two cents worth.

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