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Old 09-23-2015, 04:05 PM   #11
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Quote" If you get WD40 on the rams be sure to clean it off. The seals dont like it."
Where did you get this information from? If the jack seals are effected by WD40 ... all of us with Level Up have some sad sad seal call outs from Lippert. The block suggestions are good as there will be times when the pad is so unlevel, you won't have enough cylinder stroke to get level without them. Also less cylinder extension means less wobble.
In the instructions it plainly states to use only silicone spray. WD 40 is not a silicone base spray. I also seem to remember without looking it up that if your in a sea salt area it needs to be done more often.....
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Old 09-23-2015, 04:37 PM   #12
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Well there you have it ... must be a difference in level up cylinders fom Lippert and regular slide cylinders from Lippert. Yeah I know one's steel and the other aluminum. They both use the same hydraulic flluid out of the same reservoir. Many of us have been usig WD40 for years on our slide cylinders for the very reason you pointed out with no issue. Helps out even when not near the oceans. I yield the floor ...
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Old 09-23-2015, 04:53 PM   #13
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WD40 is a solvent. It will wash away other lubricants. Silicone will coat the surface without removing any residual hydraulic fluid.
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Old 09-23-2015, 04:53 PM   #14
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When I first hit the auto level, the front always dips to a low level on the front 2 jacks. It then senses the front height and then the curb side lowers and then the road side lowers and finishes the height and beeps to tell me its done. After the back 4 jacks have finished, the front will raise a little bit. I also use pads under the jacks. The DW does not movement much.
Having this trailer a year, we have camped about 100 days and it has always worked in this manor.
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Old 09-23-2015, 05:20 PM   #15
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You are correct when you hit auto level the front will dip to start the auto level process. All I was saying is if you lower the front jacks and then hit the auto level the leveled height will be lower. This is just a trick to lower the overall level above the ground and the LCI guys showed me this trick.
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Old 09-23-2015, 05:29 PM   #16
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clr,.
About how far do you go down to get the level at a lower range. I used the auto level on a slop with it going up towards the back of the TT, and it bottomed out and tripped the breaker on the level system. Of coarse it was 10PM in the dark. I guess what I'm asking is about how much of the front rod exposed do you start at?
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Old 09-23-2015, 05:37 PM   #17
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Well I forget the exact degrees down but the system in auto mode will stop you at about 6 degree down in the front or so. Of course this is in my drive way and the drive slops down to the street. I run it down until about 4 inches of the rod are showing I would say. By the way I have hit the auto stop points but I have never reached the max stroke or popped any breaker. Also to get the RV up to hitch height I have to enter manual mode to raise it high enough the auto mode will max out and stop moving the RV.
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Old 09-23-2015, 06:38 PM   #18
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Well I forget the exact degrees down but the system in auto mode will stop you at about 6 degree down in the front or so. Of course this is in my drive way and the drive slops down to the street. I run it down until about 4 inches of the rod are showing I would say. By the way I have hit the auto stop points but I have never reached the max stroke or popped any breaker. Also to get the RV up to hitch height I have to enter manual mode to raise it high enough the auto mode will max out and stop moving the RV.
That is caused by the loss of pressure, You should always start in the auto level unless you are to put it in manual mode. If you want to lower it the 4" of rod showing, I would put blocks under it to that height and then hit auto so you will not loss pressure..... Also a question has anyone had any white pitting on the alum. coated cylinder? I have one on the right side that was pitted, they put a new one on in Goshen. 2 Weeks later the same one pitted again. LCI sent a new one to my dealer of choice and they are going to replace it again. They are paying for Labor and shipping. The factory told me on the first one they they never saw that before. On the right side there is a drain whole in my battery box. I now have taped that whole up to see if it is electrolytes coming out and splashing it. Very strange that it is the only one doing it. If it gets pitted you stand the chance of ripping your "O" ring seal. That alum. coating is really paper thin. The factory gave me a can of spray it's made by CRS and is silicone. I was told to spay them then wipe it off? He also said that wd 40 will eat that "O" ring up.
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Old 09-23-2015, 10:44 PM   #19
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Find the maintenance reference on page 9 here:
https://lci1.com/assets/content/supp...ers_Manual.pdf

OR you could look at this reference which is also from LCI and has some conflicting info regarding time, imagine that.
http://www.primetimerv.com/download/...nersmanual.pdf
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Old 09-26-2015, 01:22 PM   #20
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Lots of info here in this thread! I have a new CC 38FL that we bought new about 5 months ago and work at an RV park. We are provided a site with full hookups on a flat (except for drainage tilt) concrete slab. Other than towing it from the dealer to here and running the autolevel one time it justs sits here. In the LCI book it says to spray lube on the rams if they will be extended for a period of time. Here we also have a problem with an invasive species of ants and have to coat everything that contacts the ground and the RV with something like Vaseline that the ants won't cross. I have used the grease that I use on the ball hitch, sway and equalizer bars on my bumper-pull units.
One thing that we have noticed that has us wondering, we often here a pop sound and a slight movement, like a 0.1 on the Richter Scale. These pops sound like they are coming from the attachment of the rams to the frame. They come from one ram at a time and then several minutes later from another. Since we have been sitting for months in the same place, I though the hydraulics were creeping down but the trailer seems to still be level. I do not have blocks under the feet so the rams are extended a good distance.
We will be moving to a different park for the next 6 months and trying to prepair so I can prevent any problem. This means that I will be using the LevelUp for only the second time.
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