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Old 09-22-2015, 04:51 PM   #1
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Lippert 6 Point “Level Up” Automatic Hydraulic Leveling System Question

New to using this system. Parked on road in front of house and used the auto level (first time). When it finished, the three jacks on the curb side were down and on the road side the front and back were down solid. The middle jack on the road side was up about an inch. Could not figure out how to get it down. Rig is level and because of the crowned road the curb side tires are off the pavement. How do you get the middle jack to come down to make contact??

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Old 09-22-2015, 04:57 PM   #2
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You have to scholl your panel to manual mode and do it in that mode. You can work each ram independently in manual mode. I would put some wood under the wheels off the ground and then hit auto level again. I say that just to take some pressure off the rams. It is the same if you had a flat. You can go into manual mode and lift that side to change a tire. The level up is the only system that will allow you to do that.
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Old 09-22-2015, 05:14 PM   #3
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Also here is the manual for your system
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Old 09-22-2015, 05:28 PM   #4
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What I do is put plastic pads under the jacks. I make it level from the bottom up, I measure while the Creek is still hooked up on the truck, I make it the same distance from each jack to the ground with plastic pads. The Level-up thinks it's on level ground, the tires stay on the ground too


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Old 09-22-2015, 06:16 PM   #5
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The system consists of three pairs of jacks: front two, middle and back left, and middle and back right. Each jack in the pair is fed from a tee, so they will each have equal pressure between the two. One jack in the pair will always have more friction than the other so it will extend first until it contacts the ground, then the other heads down.
The second thing to think of, is that the system senses angles. It has no idea how long each jack is extended.
So when you hit auto and it says "grounding jacks", it is pumping fluid (left side first) until it senses movement. Once the jacks are grounded then it works on leveling the unit.
I'd suspect that your left middle jack is still a bit tight, and the back jack touched down hard enough to bump the camper and fool the system that the left side had grounded. And since that was the high side it never called for any more fluid. If you go to manual mode and extend the left side the left middle should finish extending.
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Old 09-22-2015, 06:43 PM   #6
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Thanks,
There are a lot of smart people out there! I am still learning after 8 years and now on yet a different RV. I have been watching and re-watching the video. With these explanations, it is starting to sink in!

Thanks Again!!!!!!!!!
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Old 09-22-2015, 07:05 PM   #7
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There is another possibility, an air bubble in the system. The good news is that it is self bleeding. So simply using(cycling) it a few times will correct the problem. Also as a suggestion from years of experience, make yourself 6 blocks to put under the jacks. I made mine out of 2x12's, screwed together, 3 high with strap handles for carrying and pulling them out from under with a hook end rod. By using the blocks you reduce the extension length of the ram which adds stability and exposes less of the ram to the elements for easier maintence.

Spray silicone on the rams and WD40 on the feet. If you get WD40 on the rams be sure to clean it off. The seals dont like it.

Also, I seldom used auto level. Its not as accurate as I would like and it raises the unit higher than needed to achieve level.
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Old 09-23-2015, 12:19 PM   #8
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I have this happen often don't know why it dose it but for some reason after getting the front and back level it lowers the middle support jacks and seems that when one jack hits they both stop. I just go to manual mode and lower the straggler.
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Old 09-23-2015, 12:33 PM   #9
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A key to using auto level is after you unhook from the TV lower the front jacks prior to hitting the auto level. This will allow the unit to reach level at a lower point and not lift the tires off the ground in most cases. This is due to the fact that the first move of the auto level is to raise the nose of the unit.
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Old 09-23-2015, 02:56 PM   #10
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Quote" If you get WD40 on the rams be sure to clean it off. The seals dont like it."
Where did you get this information from? If the jack seals are effected by WD40 ... all of us with Level Up have some sad sad seal call outs from Lippert. The block suggestions are good as there will be times when the pad is so unlevel, you won't have enough cylinder stroke to get level without them. Also less cylinder extension means less wobble.
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Old 09-23-2015, 03:05 PM   #11
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Quote:
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Quote" If you get WD40 on the rams be sure to clean it off. The seals dont like it."
Where did you get this information from? If the jack seals are effected by WD40 ... all of us with Level Up have some sad sad seal call outs from Lippert. The block suggestions are good as there will be times when the pad is so unlevel, you won't have enough cylinder stroke to get level without them. Also less cylinder extension means less wobble.
In the instructions it plainly states to use only silicone spray. WD 40 is not a silicone base spray. I also seem to remember without looking it up that if your in a sea salt area it needs to be done more often.....
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Old 09-23-2015, 03:37 PM   #12
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Well there you have it ... must be a difference in level up cylinders fom Lippert and regular slide cylinders from Lippert. Yeah I know one's steel and the other aluminum. They both use the same hydraulic flluid out of the same reservoir. Many of us have been usig WD40 for years on our slide cylinders for the very reason you pointed out with no issue. Helps out even when not near the oceans. I yield the floor ...
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Old 09-23-2015, 03:53 PM   #13
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WD40 is a solvent. It will wash away other lubricants. Silicone will coat the surface without removing any residual hydraulic fluid.
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Old 09-23-2015, 03:53 PM   #14
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When I first hit the auto level, the front always dips to a low level on the front 2 jacks. It then senses the front height and then the curb side lowers and then the road side lowers and finishes the height and beeps to tell me its done. After the back 4 jacks have finished, the front will raise a little bit. I also use pads under the jacks. The DW does not movement much.
Having this trailer a year, we have camped about 100 days and it has always worked in this manor.
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Old 09-23-2015, 04:20 PM   #15
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You are correct when you hit auto level the front will dip to start the auto level process. All I was saying is if you lower the front jacks and then hit the auto level the leveled height will be lower. This is just a trick to lower the overall level above the ground and the LCI guys showed me this trick.
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Old 09-23-2015, 04:29 PM   #16
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clr,.
About how far do you go down to get the level at a lower range. I used the auto level on a slop with it going up towards the back of the TT, and it bottomed out and tripped the breaker on the level system. Of coarse it was 10PM in the dark. I guess what I'm asking is about how much of the front rod exposed do you start at?
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Old 09-23-2015, 04:37 PM   #17
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Well I forget the exact degrees down but the system in auto mode will stop you at about 6 degree down in the front or so. Of course this is in my drive way and the drive slops down to the street. I run it down until about 4 inches of the rod are showing I would say. By the way I have hit the auto stop points but I have never reached the max stroke or popped any breaker. Also to get the RV up to hitch height I have to enter manual mode to raise it high enough the auto mode will max out and stop moving the RV.
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Old 09-23-2015, 05:38 PM   #18
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Well I forget the exact degrees down but the system in auto mode will stop you at about 6 degree down in the front or so. Of course this is in my drive way and the drive slops down to the street. I run it down until about 4 inches of the rod are showing I would say. By the way I have hit the auto stop points but I have never reached the max stroke or popped any breaker. Also to get the RV up to hitch height I have to enter manual mode to raise it high enough the auto mode will max out and stop moving the RV.
That is caused by the loss of pressure, You should always start in the auto level unless you are to put it in manual mode. If you want to lower it the 4" of rod showing, I would put blocks under it to that height and then hit auto so you will not loss pressure..... Also a question has anyone had any white pitting on the alum. coated cylinder? I have one on the right side that was pitted, they put a new one on in Goshen. 2 Weeks later the same one pitted again. LCI sent a new one to my dealer of choice and they are going to replace it again. They are paying for Labor and shipping. The factory told me on the first one they they never saw that before. On the right side there is a drain whole in my battery box. I now have taped that whole up to see if it is electrolytes coming out and splashing it. Very strange that it is the only one doing it. If it gets pitted you stand the chance of ripping your "O" ring seal. That alum. coating is really paper thin. The factory gave me a can of spray it's made by CRS and is silicone. I was told to spay them then wipe it off? He also said that wd 40 will eat that "O" ring up.
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Old 09-23-2015, 09:44 PM   #19
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Find the maintenance reference on page 9 here:
https://lci1.com/assets/content/supp...ers_Manual.pdf

OR you could look at this reference which is also from LCI and has some conflicting info regarding time, imagine that.
http://www.primetimerv.com/download/...nersmanual.pdf
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Old 09-26-2015, 12:22 PM   #20
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Lots of info here in this thread! I have a new CC 38FL that we bought new about 5 months ago and work at an RV park. We are provided a site with full hookups on a flat (except for drainage tilt) concrete slab. Other than towing it from the dealer to here and running the autolevel one time it justs sits here. In the LCI book it says to spray lube on the rams if they will be extended for a period of time. Here we also have a problem with an invasive species of ants and have to coat everything that contacts the ground and the RV with something like Vaseline that the ants won't cross. I have used the grease that I use on the ball hitch, sway and equalizer bars on my bumper-pull units.
One thing that we have noticed that has us wondering, we often here a pop sound and a slight movement, like a 0.1 on the Richter Scale. These pops sound like they are coming from the attachment of the rams to the frame. They come from one ram at a time and then several minutes later from another. Since we have been sitting for months in the same place, I though the hydraulics were creeping down but the trailer seems to still be level. I do not have blocks under the feet so the rams are extended a good distance.
We will be moving to a different park for the next 6 months and trying to prepair so I can prevent any problem. This means that I will be using the LevelUp for only the second time.
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