Load up 34IK

[MikeRP]

So today my wife and I came down to the storage and started working on loading up. We cleaned the camper top to bottom on the inside.

But when I was putting the slides out first a couch cushion got crushed. I caught it before it damaged the cushion.

And worse of all a screw was under be dinette slide and damaged the congoleum. So anyway to fix that easily?

We ran the propane heater, it’s fine. Lighting is fine, I check all the outlets and they are wired fine. And they really did a good job cleaning the trailer.

And the one control doesn’t seem to have all the little icons to push. When I open it up I’m right in like a control screen.

Have figured that one out yet. Any ideas?

[MikeRP]

Ok I figured out this one control LCI thing. In my Coach it only controls the landing gear. It’s in the storage compartment driver side.

The one inside the Coach is an In Command system. It works all the stuff inside. Both have phone apps. So I’m thinking I’m headed down the right path. Any thoughts?

[SimchaSabre]

I'm glad you're figuring all this stuff so you can coach me later.

[tcrossan]

Anyone happen to know the current draw on the 4 door fridge in the 34IK? Trying to size batteries.

[tomkatb]

Purchase one of those bags of bungee cords.

We discovered the hard way doors come open during travels. The slides will tear them off the cabinets!

Did a lot of repair from last year. One door was torn off and then penetrated the wall. One tore off trim in two places.

A extreme pothole and a door cracked.

Bungees would have saved all! All I consider my fault. Except for the trim over the closet doors falling off and the cracked cabinet door. Crappy construction. But, better than others.

Need model number from the fridge. Watts per hour!

[tomkatb]

I am old school on batteries. My Hathaway holds 4 of the cheap Costco six volt batteries. 460 amps I think. About 3000 watts.

We have a gas fridge and a Bluetooth voltmeter with alarms.

[tcrossan]

Hey MikeRP
The control panel in baggage compartment. Is that the only control or us there a small keypad on the drivers side?

[tomkatb]

Mine has a small keypad on the drivers side near the front. Outside.

Also the touch screen thing near the kitchen will operate the level up. Th3 master panel.

[MikeRP]

Same here. I’m doing the slides by using the off on selectors in the drivers side hookup compartment. One at a time so I can watch them come in and out.

[tomkatb]

On the slides we use the all at once sort of button on the remote. That way the DW can stand outside to watch them going out. She is inside going in.

Mine follow the same pattern every time. The smallest slide first(br) then the drivers side, then the dining area.

I do the individual ones when I am truly concerned about hitting something.

Yes, I have moved the fiver more than once early on. Better at it now.

[SimchaSabre]

Originally Posted by tomkatb

On the slides we use the all at once sort of button on the remote. That way the DW can stand outside to watch them going out. She is inside going in.

Mine follow the same pattern every time. The smallest slide first(br) then the drivers side, then the dining area.

I do the individual ones when I am truly concerned about hitting something.

Yes, I have moved the fiver more than once early on. Better at it now.

We made a "Story Stick" with marks for each slide to help with camper placement. As you say, we used it a lot at first, now not too much anymore.

[MikeRP]

Ok

Here’s the damage on tow commissioning weekends.

Found chalking in front cap that needed fixed. Repaired.

One hydraulic jack not going all the way up. Cycled a few times. Repaired.

Misc screw did minor damage to congoleum. Not repaired, Orvan will look at it in August.

Cleaned and lubed hydraulic slides and jacks.

Found sewer hose storage and working to get it easier to use. Two screws were loose on it.

Shout out to the Anderson Jack blocks. Got four of them and they are very easy to use. Coach is stable as a rock.

Just found a rubber grommet not totally sealed in the shower.

Tv is working well.

Stove was hard to start.

With all out stuff in the Coach, I was surprised that everything seemed to stay put.

Truck handles the me trailer well. Hope to do a weigh in next weekend after final load out for trip to Key Largo.

Found another pretty little dark brown screw this morning. Not sure where it was meant for.

Hookup and unhook are easy.

Looks like I didn’t need the slider hitch but it does back easier with it in the maneuvering position.

Looks like plenty of electrical cable but needed both sewer hoses this weekend.

Haven’t figured out how to sanitize the water system yet.

Dropped the driver side tires off a curb. Everything looks ok reminds me to be looking.

Roof Inspection looked excellent.

Torqued the wheel lugs and found three that weren’t tight enough.

All electrical outlets work and are properly wired. Air conditioning is much more quiet than the old Sunseeker.

Fans are working well but bathroom fan is loud. I may replace this one. The mattress upgrade is worth it.

Last thing is do I try to clean and get a coat of quick wax on this thing before Florida?

Oh I had an idea In the pin hookup so you can tell easily if you high sided.

I cleaned off all the grease with some dawn soapy water and WD 40. Put some red electric tape around the bottom of the pin. Relubed with white lithium grease. Now I can easily tell the lower part is below the hitch jaws.

So far I like it. Much more room and it’s very functional.

Ttys.

[MikeRP]

So, my truck and 34IK loaded weighs 22500 lbs. 5180 front and 6000 rear with trailer coming in at 11320 on the scale. Thats basically 11200 truck weight w GVWR of 11700. Got 500 more pounds. I was carrying one bubble of water, full def and fuel.w me at 250. Looks like my trailer weighs around 13900 lbs and that around 1400 lbs cargo which is right on what I expected.

Truck sits level and drives well. I’m still looking at aux fuel tanks. Anyway. FYI!

[SimchaSabre]

Originally Posted by MikeRP

So, my truck and 34IK loaded weighs 22500 lbs. 5180 front and 6000 rear with trailer coming in at 11320 on the scale. Thats basically 11200 truck weight w GVWR of 11700. Got 500 more pounds. I was carrying one bubble of water, full def and fuel.w me at 250. Looks like my trailer weighs around 13900 lbs and that around 1400 lbs cargo which is right on what I expected.

Truck sits level and drives well. I’m still looking at aux fuel tanks. Anyway. FYI!

I hate this part. Must be the Engineering gene. You do all the calcs during design & development, but it's all theory until you weigh it in the real world. Wasn't too bad while working, but now it my own money?

Do you recall the GCWR for your Ram? I think mine will come in ~28,300. 22,500 sounds like a good margin. So your Pin =2,200? Sounds about right too.

[MikeRP]

My GCVWR = 25300 lbs. I don’t think going to 28300 really means anything if you are staying with a fifth wheel. In the end tires are the limiting factor. Have they told you what the GVWR will be? Compared to the 11700lbs.?

[MikeRP]

The pin - is around 2700 which is really right in with the payload my truck says on the sticker. But if I go to the max payload, I’m also at 7000lbs on the rear and probably 16000 lbs on the trailer.

So I’m going to stay sane on this loading.

[SimchaSabre]

Originally Posted by MikeRP

My GCVWR = 25300 lbs. I don’t think going to 28300 really means anything if you are staying with a fifth wheel. In the end tires are the limiting factor. Have they told you what the GVWR will be? Compared to the 11700lbs.?

No advanced intel on my exact build. Based on advanced 2019 RAM HD realeased specs for my model/trim the GVWR should be 11,500

[tcrossan]

Went with 2-105aH AGM batteries for fridge and extras. LazyDays gave me a $125 trade in for the standard deep cycle batts so I'm pretty sure the fridge will run 2 days on batty only. Insurance is what I need in case of breakdown like last time being stranded in an abandoned gas station for 2 days w/o my genny.
Finally getting for pick up day on the 15th. My partial PDI on the 14th and balance on then15th. I don't expect to find much until our shakedown cruise.

[Splashes3]

MikeRP - what did you torque your wheels to?

[tcrossan]

Ok we are now the proud and visible owners of our long awaited 34IK! Into every joy a little rain must fall as is said so here is the issue. The rear AC (and maybe the front AC as well don't know yet) cycles on and off about every 30 seconds. Does this sound normal? I didn't think so either! So, what's up with that? Dealer "tech support" says we have to set the 2 zone controller to Zone 1 "fan>low" and it won't cycle at all but the fan will run continuously.
How do y'all think or know they're supposed to work? DW is about out of her skin trying to sleep through the constant on & off of the system. I suppose the same applies for the Zone 2. We only run Zone 1 at night to help attenuate the noise from the system.
Will call Dometic Monday and ask again but figured there is more smarts here.