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Old 04-30-2014, 01:15 AM   #21
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We had all new studs and lugs put on today. After examining the other lugs and studs some of the lugs had a little wobble or looseness to them. We checked each new stud and lug to ensure there wasn't any wobble prior to installing. We did use a little loctite, the blue, which will allow lugs to be removed if tires need replacing.
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Old 04-30-2014, 06:24 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by gasa765 View Post
We had all new studs and lugs put on today. After examining the other lugs and studs some of the lugs had a little wobble or looseness to them. We checked each new stud and lug to ensure there wasn't any wobble prior to installing. We did use a little loctite, the blue, which will allow lugs to be removed if tires need replacing.

Properly torqued, no locking product is ever required as previously stated and can destroy your studs. Improperly torqued lug nuts will put incredible stress on studs and ruin them in short order.

Too much torque will snap the stud off due to heat expansion with no place to go; too little will allow nuts to come loose/off (destroying the threads) for the same reason.

Once one stud breaks or loses a nut, the stress on the other studs will cause them to fail in short orderl.
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Old 04-30-2014, 07:13 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by gasa765 View Post
We had all new studs and lugs put on today. After examining the other lugs and studs some of the lugs had a little wobble or looseness to them. We checked each new stud and lug to ensure there wasn't any wobble prior to installing. We did use a little loctite, the blue, which will allow lugs to be removed if tires need replacing.
I hope you used the Loctite on the knurled portion of the stud that is in the hub and NOT on the threads. As stated previously, any type thread locker on the threads is a NO-NO and should never be done. If you did put thread locker on the threads, I would firmly suggest you remove it immediately, clean the threads on both the studs and the nuts and NEVER do it again.
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Old 04-30-2014, 08:10 AM   #24
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After changing the grease seals on all four wheels torqued the lug nuts to 100#. On a weekend trip we stopped after the first 30 mi and checked the lugs, 3 out of the 20 move a little, not much but they did move when I re-torqued. Again at 50 mi and a couple moved a bit. Torqued again before leaving the campground, 1 more lug nut moved ever so slightly. When I put the RV back into storage I rechecked the lugnuts, nothing budged. I'll recheck before our next trip and again when refueling about 200 mi. Always checked before leaving campgrounds as is the air pressures on both truck and RV. Have did this on all the rv's we have owned (3)
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Old 04-30-2014, 01:22 PM   #25
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All these people say not to use Locktite and they tell you why..So you use it anyway...Now the question is why are you asking for advice if you don't believe what people that are trying to help you suggest?
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Old 04-30-2014, 01:34 PM   #26
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All these people say not to use Locktite and they tell you why..So you use it anyway...Now the question is why are you asking for advice if you don't believe what people that are trying to help you suggest?
My sentiments exactly. Don't know why he ask questions in the first place if he already knew what he was going to do regardless of other peoples answers.
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Old 04-30-2014, 02:13 PM   #27
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Everyone keeps saying 100 lbs. torque. Lionhead says 110lbs, but that was when I had trail express tires but they are still the same rim and lug nuts with the Marathons I put on. When they installed the 4 new tires at GY, the tire guy said what do you want to torque them to I said 110lbs. Is that right or wrong, never had one lose yet after 2 years. and I have a calibrated torque wrench. And it wasn't cheap.
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Old 04-30-2014, 02:16 PM   #28
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Torque for a 1/2" stud is 90#/' min-120#/' max, so 110#/' is just fine. That's what I torque mine to. 105 #/' would be half way between min and max.

Calibrated or torque wrenches that are capable of being calibrated are not cheap.
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Old 04-30-2014, 03:42 PM   #29
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Before i bought my FR I had a Keystone and their operator manual said to torque the lug bolts from 110 to 120 ft/lbs so I torqued them to 115. I continued to do this with my
Surveyor. I just checked the operator manual for this rig and it states 85 to 95 ft/lbs. So, my question is; should I loosen them and re-torque them accordingly? I just returned from an 2200 mile round trip and no problems with them torqued to the higher spec.
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Old 04-30-2014, 03:48 PM   #30
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Before i bought my FR I had a Keystone and their operator manual said to torque the lug bolts from 110 to 120 ft/lbs so I torqued them to 115. I continued to do this with my
Surveyor. I just checked the operator manual for this rig and it states 85 to 95 ft/lbs. So, my question is; should I loosen them and re-torque them accordingly? I just returned from an 2200 mile round trip and no problems with them torqued to the higher spec.
Leave them @ 105 lb/ft, 90 lb/ft is the minimum and 120 lb/ft is the max and 105 lb/ft is midway. GOOD TO GO!
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