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Old 04-30-2014, 04:02 PM   #31
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Before i bought my FR I had a Keystone and their operator manual said to torque the lug bolts from 110 to 120 ft/lbs so I torqued them to 115. I continued to do this with my
Surveyor. I just checked the operator manual for this rig and it states 85 to 95 ft/lbs. So, my question is; should I loosen them and re-torque them accordingly? I just returned from an 2200 mile round trip and no problems with them torqued to the higher spec.
Your wheels are the determining factor. I posted a link to dexters spec sheet. if you have aluminum wheels there are different styles of lug nuts depending on the wheel. That's why Dexter tells you to follow the manufacturers recommendation. I would do that for liability reasons if nothing else.
Yes, the studs will handle the higher torque. Will the wheels? is the question you must address in order to arrive at correct answer.
It is all about SAFETY.
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Old 04-30-2014, 04:08 PM   #32
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Your wheels are the determining factor. I posted a link to dexters spec sheet. if you have aluminum wheels there are different styles of lug nuts depending on the wheel. That's why Dexter tells you to follow the manufacturers recommendation. I would do that for liability reasons if nothing else.
Yes, the studs will handle the higher torque. Will the wheels? is the question you must address in order to arrive at correct answer.
It is all about SAFETY.
They are not Dexter wheels, they are probably Hi Spec wheels and no mention of different styles of lug nuts, just the stud size for the alum. wheels.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Flagstaff Series06 wheels.pdf (353.5 KB, 34 views)
File Type: pdf Flagstaff TT Alum Wheel torque specs.pdf (311.4 KB, 27 views)
File Type: pdf Flagstaff wheels.pdf (3.41 MB, 23 views)
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Old 04-30-2014, 04:21 PM   #33
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OP and others should have enough data to make up their minds as to what torque they want to use once they determine the stud size.
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Old 05-01-2014, 04:51 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lloydg View Post
Before i bought my FR I had a Keystone and their operator manual said to torque the lug bolts from 110 to 120 ft/lbs so I torqued them to 115. I continued to do this with my
Surveyor. I just checked the operator manual for this rig and it states 85 to 95 ft/lbs. So, my question is; should I loosen them and re-torque them accordingly? I just returned from an 2200 mile round trip and no problems with them torqued to the higher spec.
Lloydg, Just leave them at where you have them torque to. If you were going to have a problem after 2200 miles and they are still good to go just leave them they are now seated......
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Old 05-01-2014, 09:42 PM   #35
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You guys are making me worry. I've never had a lug nut come loose if it was even close to spec on any of my 5 trailers. Every time I check torque they are always tight just like my TV. IMO the real problem is wheel flexing when trailers are pulled at speeds that result in swaying. Trailer sway puts tremendous flex loads on the trailer wheels and will eventually loosen the studs if not crack the rims at the lug holes. 65 MPH is absolute maximum speed that I would pull a trailer.

Torqing a bolt stretches it into its elastic region. This distorts the thread and essentially locks the nut securely. Follow the manufactures specs, keep speeds reasonable and no creative ingenuity is required.
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Old 05-02-2014, 08:58 AM   #36
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...Follow the manufactures specs, keep speeds reasonable and no creative ingenuity is required.
I believe you are 100% correct. I even posted a link to the axle manufactures info that reads the same way. I never envisioned that getting that notion across would meet such resistance. When I read that claptrap, I usually see myself doing this:

Lurch - YouTube

Then my "Ignore" list grows.
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Old 05-02-2014, 09:14 AM   #37
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Torque stripe

Neil, after your final torque, do you apply a torque stripe on each lug nut for future reference? Did ours when we first brought the coach home little over a yerar ago. In the process of re-torquing them now as we had the wheels off during this EZ Lube Bearing process last month. Have not moved the coach since then, the 9th will be the day we leave for our trip..plan to stop in Chattanooga rest stop, 50 miles to check torque at that time, then again when we get to Nashville, hundred or so miles away....then the new torque stripes go back on...
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If they are steel wheels, I would suspect the studs you replaced are not seated. If they are alum wheels, it takes at least 3 or 4 times re-torqueing with 50-75 miles between re-torqueing to get the lug nuts seated.

On my last 2 trailers with alum wheels, I left the hubcaps off for the first trip over 100 miles and stopped every 40-50 miles and re-torqued them. Last time was when we stopped at the cg and checked them and none moved, so I reinstalled the hub caps. I always check them before leaving the house.
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Old 05-02-2014, 09:35 AM   #38
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Neil, after your final torque, do you apply a torque stripe on each lug nut for future reference? Did ours when we first brought the coach home little over a yerar ago. In the process of re-torquing them now as we had the wheels off during this EZ Lube Bearing process last month. Have not moved the coach since then, the 9th will be the day we leave for our trip..plan to stop in Chattanooga rest stop, 50 miles to check torque at that time, then again when we get to Nashville, hundred or so miles away....then the new torque stripes go back on...
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Don't use torque strips, just keep checking until all 20 quit moving and then replace the hub caps and then check them before leaving on a trip. I check them before we leave for FL and when we get there. Don't check them again even tho' we move every 2 wks for the 3+ months, but do check them before we leave to go back home. Doesn't take long and sure gives me peace of mind.
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Old 05-03-2014, 07:30 PM   #39
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Not looking for criticism but help with something we've never had an issue with in all our years of RVing. I've never even had to check the lugs or had an issue until be bought this Cedar Creek. We've had travel trailers, fifth wheels and a class A and this is the first time it's been an issue. Maybe we've been lucky. Now we know to check. Probably going to trade this rig off. Lost confidence.
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Old 05-03-2014, 07:38 PM   #40
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Not looking for criticism but help with something we've never had an issue with in all our years of RVing. I've never even had to check the lugs or had an issue until be bought this Cedar Creek. We've had travel trailers, fifth wheels and a class A and this is the first time it's been an issue. Maybe we've been lucky. Now we know to check. Probably going to trade this rig off. Lost confidence.
No criticism here, I think it has to do with the use of alum wheels becoming much more prevalent in the last 10 yrs. Alum wheels have always been a problem keeping the lugs tight until they were seated. I had alum wheels on a 55 Chev many yrs ago and had to re-torque them several times before they seated. It's the same with new trailers. I wouldn't loose confidence in CC because of having to re-torque the wheels. Takes about 10 minutes including removing the hub caps. Just leave the caps off until they get seated and then just check them before you head out on a long trip.
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