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Old 06-03-2016, 02:04 PM   #1
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Replacing Drain Valves

Our 36CKTS has always had issues in both opening and closing all 3 tank valves and I'm convinced it will only be a matter of time before one or all fail.

I have decided to replace all 3 valves later on this summer. I think I'll go electric but haven't made a final decision yet.

I'd like to hear from some folks who have gone down this road if possible? Did you go electric and how was the install? Is manual better?

How big of a can of worms is this?

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Old 06-03-2016, 02:59 PM   #2
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You might find this interesting.
Barker Auto-Drain Waste Dump Valve Review - RV Tip of the Day

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Old 06-03-2016, 03:36 PM   #3
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Last summer I had to clean out my black valve, dummy mistake, repeatly opening and closing valve during winterizeing I jammed TP in the valve.

The hardest part or tidious part was the underbelly.
Mind you the valves are in very tight between the pipe. You will need something to separate the pipe, just enough so you can easily remove the valve but mostly so you can properly reinsert the valve with the o'ring still attached.

Ah once you do one the other 2 will be easy(ier).

Not exactly sure on what you meant really. Are they stiff if so maybe try grease the rods on the handle, unless you have cables which I hear can give you problems.
Or are they leaking, if so you can spin the handles which will push the gate to seal properly. Just make sure you don't loosen the rod completely.

This is what I would try first, as for the electric can't help there.

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Old 06-03-2016, 04:05 PM   #4
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I will be tuning in to this thread.

I have a new to me 2014 36ckts with cable operated valves that seem to be too hard to move. I poured valve lube down the drains and lubed the cables near the improvement. I'd like to know/see how replacing with electric valves is accomplished.
Doug & Cindy
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Old 06-03-2016, 06:51 PM   #5
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My black water tank valve leaks bad, I had to put another valve to close it up. I would be very interested in a electric valve

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Old 06-03-2016, 09:19 PM   #6
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I haven't seen many good posts about electric valves. A couple things about the manual valves. Pouring oil or lube in the tank won't do much if anything. The oil floats on the water in the tank and won't get to the valve. The part of the valve that sticks is on the outside not internal. Open the belly of the rig and find the valve. On the end of the valve is a slide with the cable attached to it. The slide is what needs to be lubed. I used a few shots of silicon or dry lube. The cable may be too long and it will flex. You can shorten them by cutting them with a Dremel and a cut-off wheel. While you have them disconnected you can also pull the cable out of the housing and smear some grease on it when you slide it in. I also put a auxiliary shut off valve on the end of my sewer pipe. I can connect my hose to that. I have just left it in place to catch any drips or leaks from the main valves before I hook my sewer hose on.
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Old 06-03-2016, 09:20 PM   #7
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I have a 2005 Daydreamer which has Drain Master electric valves. These valves have proven to be most unreliable. Mind you they are 10yrs old. I've taken them out, cleaned and lubed them. Still untrustworthy. The folks at Drain Master are a pleasure to deal with and I have just ordered and received 2 new valves. I intend to replace the valves on the gray water tanks with these. For the black tank I have bought a cable valve and will see if I can install it without too much issue. The reasoning being that I can access the gray tanks "reasonably easy". The black tank is more difficult. I can leave the gray tanks open if need be as there is a manual valve at the hose connection. In fact, my gray tanks are open now and the wire harnesses are unplugged.

Cedar Creek did not install these valves as recommended by Drain Master. That may be a large part of the problem. I was able to reinstall one of the valves to meet the manufactures specifications but the rest require modifications to the plumbing. This project is going to take a few days.
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Old 06-04-2016, 09:31 AM   #8
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My black valve started leaking and it Was NOT the valve. It was the cable. It is a braided wire cable that starts to puff out with use and wont go into the cable sheathing. Replaced the cable works fine. All three valves are very hard to open and close. This is the cable not the valve.
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Old 06-04-2016, 02:03 PM   #9
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I replace my kinked cable black valve with a Manuel one little trouble to get to but it workes
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Old 06-04-2016, 04:10 PM   #10
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I agree I don't think it is the actual valve that is the primary issue, I think it's the cables.

We have our summer trip planned around a wedding in the middle of July so I'll pull the pans off when we get back and see what I'm getting into.

Opening and closing all 3 valves have been difficult from the day we got our trailer and I'm sure it's the cables and that's one reason I am thinking about going electric. You really have to lean into it to open or close all of them.

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2016 Cedar Creek 36CKTS (My Last FR Product)
20,000 LB Reese GooseBox Hitch
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drain, valve

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